i've been doing my breakins wot with no idle in between, just wot with super rich till temps dron then lean out a turn so temps go up, wheels barely turn during the whole thing, takes about 500cc's and the motor is ready to race tune. still needs the rest of the gallon to loosen up but i have had no pinch, rod or crank issues in over 10 galolons on 4 different motors, taiwan-italy.

I have no doubt this method is good for nova and nova based engines from the remarks i've seen on this thread.

I'd like to know if it also good for picco based and sirio based engines...

Thanks...

This was the procedure recommended to me by a Kyosho/Sirio driver for the Evo2 engine.

I run picco based engines now, and it's a little different as I just use a very high idle (1/4 maybe) and too rich for the wheels to spin for a few tanks. then near race tune after that for 3-4 tanks. switch the rod and then you are ready to race. (I have one rod that I break all my engines in with and switch back to the new rod for racing because the rods really don't like the break in process)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FAhO3ohjT2Y here is a video for those who are trying to get their motors to run right for the cyrul method , this is the sound your looking for.

thanks for the tips guys!

g

I know one thing for sure. I used this method on my Ninja .12 this season and it was silly fast. The only thing I changed after a long season was the rod and bearings just to be on the safe side. Pinch is still good after close to 4 gallons and it still runs that straight hard. I will definitely use this method again for my next engine, whatever that may be.

I actually have broken two engines this way. the first time was more of a learning experience and it worked very well. the second time around I was better at it, used a hair dryer to keep the egine hot and the end result has paid dividends. My engine is sick fast.

I will continue to use this method with all my new engines.

can i remove the clutch bell and the bearings so there is no possibility for spinning or dragging?

Just to be safe its alright for the final 1/2 tank adjustments for the car to be shifting while doing the 2-3 sec burnouts

Hi all, can this matter be use to run-in a AAC sleeve engine like a Sirio CL7 STI??:confused::confused:

Thanks for sharing my youtube video of the RC Engine Break In / Run -In WOT style.

I did it with my STS 21B Turbo and it still running the same sleeve even though change the conrod 1 time after the run-in.

I recommend full heart this method. :nod:

I also did it with my Nova RX-21 WCS2008, Long Stroke, 2008 production. An onroad engine. No problem.

How many you guys using this method, and how its working for you. I want to try it.

I used this method on a nova 353 (08) and that motor is still in the car today and has plenty of pinch and keeps up with any other .12 out there. and I have everybit 7 gallons if not more through that engine.

i know i am using it still after all this while .. still the best engine break in for me. all my engines.. that still with me till this day.. still tight and if the strterbox not fully charged.. it wont start... but when the engine started.. the idling is just consistent.

watch the video.. it is real and coming from Josh Cyrul i trusted him then and still now :)

works a treat... broke in my zx12 and put 10 litres 16% through it racing on not including fuel used to break it in - normally would change conrod after breakin but no one had any and was waiting for one to turn up but popped the rod screwing up the liner at end brendale back straight...

also used it to break in sirio evo 3 sti, which has had 20+ litres through it before i stopped racing years back... still hard to turn over ATDC...