hi, does anybody know if any aftermarket cooling heads would fit this engine?
thanks

ntloser. If you have only run two tanks thru it your not even close to being broke in. all the sts motors I have had take at least 1/2 to 3/4 of a gallon before you can lean it out to drive it.

Ryan thanks for your reply.. I have been following the break in procedure as stated in the manual however the engine goes from super rich to super lean (no not the 1/2 tank lean). I wasn't sure and didn't want to do anything wrong so I brought it to the LHS. I let them know I only had 2 tanks through and they said only negative things about the carb and that it wont hold a tune. I assumed they we taking that into consideration. Where should my needle settings be at 2 tanks? Should they be at factory still?

Your LHS is just pissed cause you didn't buy it from them. The carb is great.
Check the HSN, it may be moving ( from vibration ) sounds crazy but, mine was. Also, don't run it so rich. I know it is not what others say but it is very hard on the conrod. Lean it out some, then run it. You are NOT going to hurt it. There is more damage done in those first two tanks running excessive amounts of fuel than just leaning it and not overheating it. Break-in is just fitting the piston to the sleeve, that's all. Don't race tune it, just lean it enough to drive it. It WILL break-in faster, run better and last longer.

Also, check that glowplug. The first few tanks create a lot of tiny particles (of metal) and they stick to the filament. If in doubt, change it.

I agree with 8man check your needles if they are very easy to turn you may have a problem there. but after the heat cylce bit lean the hsn maybe 1/8 of a turn and the same to the lsn to drive it around also check your temps you want the motor to be able to reach close to 200 now but dont go over 230.
drive it around at those temps for a tank or two then check your breakin by removing the plug and rolling the motor over by hand you shouldnt feel the piston grab at the top if it does you need to do a couple more tanks.
do that till you cant feel the piston resist at the top or feel just a tiny bit of resistance. then you can tune it for performance. have some patience.
all my sts motors have held there tune very well and can run all day long without messing with the needles

I am starting to think my LHS is full of it too. Unfortunately I do not know enough to diagnose things by myself. I read and read and whenever I try something that has worked for others it doesn't work for me. My last and first engine lasted 2 and 1/2 gallons it will still run but the piston head is brown,( AWW YEAH BUT IT WAS RUNNING LIKE A RAPED APE WITH OUT ANY HEAD SHIMS), and has tiny holes in it. I do NOT want the STS to turn into that. So I though bring it to the LHS.. Anyway, this things appears to be making crazy power. I think the LHS adjusted the needles a little so they could adjust the werls 4 shoe clutch. I tried but after taking the engine out 3 or 4 times and still not getting it right I decided to let a "pro" handle it. Much to my surprise the clutch is no different then when i was adjusting it.

Anyway.. Here is my problem now.. You'll have to bear with me if it is an easy one but I just want to get this going to have fun for once.

I brought the truck to a desolate parking lot and it fired right up with only 2 blips of the pulstart. Not even one full pull. I gave it a little gas and it died.. No big deal I started it again and let it warm up more then start blipping from 1/16 through 1/2 throttle. And besides the wierd clutch thing. I am actually thinking wow it is running good. Then at about a 1/16 of a tank left, it just dies. And it is hot so I let it cool down. I fill up the tank and try to start it again but it wont start unless I give it some throttle while pulling it. OKay no big deal I think I take it for another lap and it dies and I cannot start it. Fuel appears to be getting into the carb. I took off the air filter and there seems to be a gap when the throttle is all the way closed but the gap is not as wide as the width of a penny. But if it was a problem with the idle setting, why did it start the first time?
This also happened with the 4.6 towards the end. I know this is going to sound stupid but.. This started with my k 4.6 right around the time I installed the new era tank. Eventually I had to set the idle so high to keep it idling that it wouldn't stay still.

I guess what I will do is set the needles to factory. (I think they were adjusted by the LHS in order to set up the clutch.) Then if that fails to resolve the stalling problem put on the original tank to make sure I don't have some wierd problem with the New Era. I am open to other suggestions. Of course I can't find my temp gauge so I don't know how hot it was.

I don't want to be a little **** that goes to LHS but on the same token I don't want to find my piston head brown and full of holes

There doesn't appear to be any leaks in my fuel line or tank. I had the LHS seal the carb and back plate ( another thing that I do not trust myself to do)

Oh btw yes the needs are tight

What are the factory settings for the needles? I am looking at pictures and my HSN is black, it was also not flush with the brass piece when i got it. Are there different HSN needles that shipped with this engine?

I dont think you need to go back to factory settings I think you need to richen the lsn about 1/8 and try again. go back thru this thread and read what mine was doing when I first got one see if that is similiar to what your prob is. I just had to keep it rich and blowing tons of smoke and it ran great then after about a gallon of fuel it quit smoking as much and really started to haul a$$ . also there are factory needle settings in this thread somewhere.

Sweet. I think my break in is done. There is no resistance at the top. It seems like there is a little at the bottom.. but like suction or something. I am going to run a couple more tanks through just to make sure.,

Hi guys.. I am pretty sure i got an air leak somewhere in the engine. I am going to try to take apart the carb and check the orings. Is there anything I should look out for. Any tips?

allot of times there will be a fuel leak showing up at the same place you have an air leak

When I took off the pullstart, there was fuel one the oneway bearing shaft. But thats it.. I sealed the carb throat and the backplate but I am not sure what I can do about it leaking through the shaft.

EDIT

I also checked the O-rings on the HSN and LSN they were fine

if its just a small amount its ok , just out of curiosity what fuel are you using

Byrons RACE 30%

BTW the idle problem seems to have subsided for now.. with some adjustments. The main problem now is a 1/2 tank lean type issue. I am using the new era tank bracket and a 125cc tank that just about eliminates the 1/2 tank lean. My current running situation is like 1/2 tank lean x10. It goes from running rich to extreme lean where the motor revs up real high.

I am hoping the reseal of everything fixed it. If not I am out of ideas.

I think I already posted about this.. I am very tired from being up all night. Sorry for the double post I gotta get some sleep then goto the LHS to get some new aluminum shoes. I am going to ditch the werks 4 shoe for now until I get the engine issue sorted out.

I decided to go back to a 3 shoe clutch but I didn't have a flywheel removal tool. I stopped by the LHS and asked them to put on the new flywheel. A few minutes later, the mechanic came out of the back room saying the piston head on these cheap engines are too thin. I guess they used some other tool to keep the piston stationary why putting on the new flywheel. The piston head was all caved in.

Anyway, they gave me a Sirio .30 for $100 to make up for it. I am kinda sad to see the STS go, it looked like it was about to get good. Oh well. How much for an STS .28 piston and sleeve?

I can order you one in on my next order they are $50 plus $5 to ship
let me know.
I cant beleive they crushed the top of your piston. the top of the piston is as hard as any other . they just screwed up and blamed it on your motor. I would be looking for a different lhs if at all possible

Thanks Ryan,

I may not be able to install a new piston and sleve myself. I can't trust the LHS as they are screwing up even the simplest things. I am also finding out the Sirio they gave me the great deal on has a problem with the conrod or conrod bushings. There is sloppy play at TDC. Between the engine/pullstart/backplate/ clutch purchases I have spent more than I did on the whole 4.6SS. I am not sure what I am going to do at this point.

How about.. Don't go near that LHS again! Crushing a piston? man. I've never had to touch the bloody piston (or any internals) to remove/add a flywheel..

Mate, all the info you need is on your computer so sit on ur ass and do some reading :) Piston and sleeve replacement is pretty easy, im sure there are instructions around if you search (google and this forum).
The "good deal" is a good deal for them as u return to buy spares for the sirio, sounds like they broke a perfectly good engine then sold you a worn out one!

Actually I would go back to the LHS, just the once to return the sirio and get ur $$ back.

Mate - those monkeys obviously don't know how to do even the most simple of tasks. Stay away from them, try visiting your nearest club instead.

Removing a flywheel = box spanner, mole grips - or decent adjustable pliers. A careful tap or a little leverage will see that the flywheel comes away from the conical spacer on the crank. Just be careful with the front bearings rubber seal - don't damage it. There's NEVER any need to mess with jamming the piston when removing the flywheel. Unbelieveable. Those idiots owe you a new engine. :flaming:

Piston/Sleeve removal.

1) Remove cylinder head - usually a simple case of removing hexhead bolts or screws.

2) Remove the glow plug button and shims.

3) Remove backplate - some competition engines require you to have the piston in a certain position so that you don't catch the piston on the back plate. Most cheaper engines don't.

4) Remove the manifold

5) Put the piston to BDC (to the bottom dead centre)

6) Insert a thick Nylon tie wrap through the exhaust port.

7) Turn the crank, 9 times out of 10 the piston will drag the sleeve up with it, thereafter enough will present itself for you to be able to pull the sleeve out.

8) Note the orientation of the sleeve, but usually there's a locating pin so that you cant fit it the wrong way.

9) With the sleeve removed, you can easily pop the conrod off the cranks big end, and carefully pull it up through the top of the engine.

I hope this helps - and I'm sorry to hear you've been let down badly by your LHS. Please bear in mind that, fortunately, not all LHS are that stupid. :)

[Edit - to correct sentence]

Do you still have your STS. If not, go back and get it. They would be paying for the damage they did, if it were mine. They are hacks! Like I said before, they are pissed cause you didn't get it from them. And they probably don't get parts for them either. I wonder why your engine is screwed up. :rolleyes:

incredible :weird:

Any one play boat? I'm playing boat lately. It is so fun and much economical :lol:

Hey Dino. Nice looking set up for FSR-V or it is F1V. What gear ratio 1:1.4 or 1:1.7 ? which class are you running V3.5 or V7.5, motor is .28 to big to 3.5 but way to small for 6.5 or 7.5.
I used play with that back in Russia, but it was long time ago. I still have now FSR-V-3.5 boat, but I gave away pipe and carb from it, the rest still have. May be one day will put it together.
Edward

no it is not FSR-V3.5. Someone told me that it is too hard to a boat newbie. So I just bought a FSR-O3.5. HAHA....very easy just for fun.

Hi,

How do I remove the piston and sleeve from my STS .28

EDIT'
I just saw the instructions 5 posts up.


Yes I still have it. You know, I had the Sirio apart sealing it and although I am a newb, the STS seems to be better designed and better machined. I haven't even fired up the sirio yet but like I said I miss the STS. I have it apart and am trying to get the piston and sleeve out. I tried to return the Sirio, but they said they cannot sell it as new since there is/has been a clutch on it. I also checked with Trinity and they said that play is normal and as long as there is not conrod play during the rest of the stroke I should be okay. I got everything together and a roto-start I am going to try it out tomorrow.

Google is your friend - use it :)

Look at bottom of the page:
http://www.nitromonkey.com/enginerebuild.shtml

Gezz, they forgot to show pictures of some rough monkey busting the piston!

More methods here:
http://www.traxxas.com/support/howto...inerebuild.htm
http://www.rcnitro.com/rn/articles/ht_rebuild.asp


and still no monkeys, looks like that LHS of yours could do with the internet :)

The sirio .30 new? good ebay it and pay for your piston/sleeve :sneaky: :sneaky: :sneaky:

Hi,

Thanks for all your replies. I tried Google and Copernic but my search results for "piston removal nitro RC" returned a bunch of junk. The zip tie method is pimp. I got the sleeve out. Any tips for getting the conrod off the crank? I also found out why I had so much problems with the werks 4 shoe. I think the flywheel was spinning around on the collet. This is the last time I have somebody else work on my truck.. Well maybe this one last time for the piston.

EDIT>.. sweet I got the piston and conrod out. Now I just have to wait to get the new piston and sleeve. I am sure I will need the STS when the Sirio blows up after a few tanks. Although it has been a bad week in my RC hobby.. it has been filled with good learning experiences. I may also rebuild my K.4.6

Well, there has never been any gas through it but it has a clutch and flywheel put on it. I came real close to e-baying it but I didn't want to wait any longer. I wanted to start bashing. I have been waiting close to a month.

I am going to keep the Sirio and fix the STS. I will need a spare engine or 2 around because I am going to be learning how to tune :)

Here was my truck with the STS

http://photobucket.com/albums/y245/n...=PICT1202f.jpg

I managed to remove the piston from the conrod. I inspected the rest of the parts closer and realized they (LHS) scarred up the head button pretty good. The part of the button that sits inside the motor is okay but the shim is damaged. And well, the gouges in the outter rim looks like it will not effect anything. What the heck is up with that? i was able to remove the head/button without putting gouges in it. I don't understand how this shop is in business and I am going to file a complaint with the BBB.

Thanks for listening.

Easy, they screw engines then sell people new ones. Sounds like a great way to sell engines to me.. :weird: :weird:

Nice truck :) does your camera have close up mode? I think we would all like to see what those butchers did to your dear STS engine.. :(

The camera I used to take the pic of the truck can do close-ups. I only have my cel phone now and will try using that.

The piston head and the button.

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...r/Image005.jpg


http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...r/Image004.jpg

WITH FLASH

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...r/Image006.jpg

8-0
I dont think I want to see any good quality images.. thats.... wow.. :eek: :weird:

Man you must be right upset with those twits!

Yeah I am pissed. But with the cost of the new piston and sleeve it will kinda be like getting a Sirio .30 and an STS .28 for $285. Although, the cost of the rotostart, battery, charger, and work I did. Anyway that is how I am trying to rationalize it.

cooling head
 

I had an old nova race pro head off a mach .26 machined out to take sts button, works killer. As far as I know nova aren't making em yet.

roto start..
 

Just a message to let people know that the one way bearing isn't strong enough for a roto start.. it slips after the first time usage, I got the roto start from the guy on here that said he had them in the UK...does STS have better one way's?

Sounds like the one-way could be dirty? Ive had my 2 speed one-way slip when she was not so clean.

http://www.racernine.com/images/STSpics/28backApart.jpg
Do you mean the right side tornado part?
Please clean it(remove oil) and try again. Should be too much lube.