http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...o/DSCN1677.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...o/DSCN1678.jpg
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...o/DSCN1679.jpg

thanks to Geggs fot the roto
works fine, w/o any problems :cool:

Looks good!

is there for HPI savage??? the one in the picture is not for savage. i wish so.

Just got my STS .28 in my MTA4. First couple of pulls it fired up just like my sts.12r3 did. I ran 4 tanks through it on idle (man its loud my ears are still ringing) I gave it another 4 tanks running it round on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. I then went to give it a bit more and as soon as you go past around 2/3 throttle it splutters and stops revving, it does not cut out it just lets you think its gonna. I gave it another 4 tanks going round on 1/4 to 1/2 throttle which is incredibly boring just to see if it would have to be broken in more but when i tried again it just does the same. I tried to lean it off a little on the HSN to see if it was overly rich from factory and thats done nothing at all. Any Ideas??

Cheers

Matt

Please let me know how many turns of your HSN & LSN. Also what pipe,what fuel you are using.

took the mta4 out today and actually got it going. I had to lean it off loads (HSN) but it seemed to be much better and ran at a good temp. However the one way bearing started to slip every couple of pulls and then it just went completly. I took it out to have a look and it seemed fine but when I put the pullstart assembly back it slipped again. After taking out and putting it back together again a couple more times it stopped slipping. I took it out again and now it won't start. I tried to richen it back up a little but all I got was some very nice blisters.

I am using tornado 25%, standard MTA4 pipe.

Also with my sts.12 there was loads of compression and it stuck at the top for a while until it was broken in with the .28 the pull start pulls really easy if I did not know it was new I would think it was 6 months old.

Hi Matt,

You can try to clean the one-way bearing with some cleaner. Lubricate it with some castor and try again. If it still slipping you may need a new one way bearing. Heat the adapter and replace it.

it seems your engine still too rich,try the setting;
HSN- 1.5~2t out / LSN- 3~4t out

We have to let the pull-start engine more loose otherwise it is real hard to pull when it new. You will get more nice blisters if it is as tight as our .12 engine series.
by the way,If you would like to use Tornado 25% on off-road purpose,i would suggest you to add 2% castor or more.

Regards,
Dino

Hi Dino

One bearing is fine now. Tried those settings and a little bit either way and still nothing apart from more bleeding blisters!

Any ideas

We talk about the bleeding blisters first!
when you operate the pull-start system,there are some tips.

1)Before you start the engine,pull the line out fully. Then you know the total length of the line. Don't over pull it out! With a strong arm you will damage the pull-start system.

2)Why you got some bleeding blisters is because your finger touch the heat sink(cooling head). So it is important that you don't need to pull the starter from the start. You can pull the starter around 10cm out slowly,then just start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. Then your finger or hand should not touch the heat sink.

3)ok let us try to start the engine. Use your knee press on the tyres to fix your monster truck. Right hand pull the starter line out around 10cm. Left hand finger block the pipe then pull the starter line several times. Make sure the fuel be pumped into the carburetor. It not,that means the LSN is too lean or even cut the fuel supply at idle position already. Or the carb is close fully and no air bypass.

4)Put on the igniter and make sure the idle opened. Start to pull the starter between 10cm to 40cm distance continuous. After several time pulling,the engine should be started.

5)If it still not work,it most have some thing wrong. Stop to keep on trying. Try to find anything wrong. Check if the plug is fine and the igniter battery. Check if the fuel enter the carb already. Check if the idle is open enough. If you can see a lot of fuel flow out from the tuned pipe,that means the HSN is too rich.

6)After the engine started,don't loosen your hand suddenly and let the starter line return very fast. That is not cool! It may snap the return spring. You should let the inner spring return the line slowly.

Above process is what I start mine D28M. Hope you understand my poor english. :p For you information.

Thanks for your reply.

Me and a friend have been at this all afternoon, we have tried every needle combination there is. Its been sounding like it wants to go but it just won't. I have tried different plugs we have used three glow plug ignitors, fuel is going into the carb it just won't fire up. A couple of times it ran for about 1 second and then it died again and it would take about 50 pulls before it did it again. It is strange because when I got it the first pull it fired up it was run in and after loads of tanks it started running ok, then the pull start slipped and since I took it apart and fixed that it won't fire. Now I know you probably think that I have not put it back together properly but I took it apart step by step and followed the same steps to put it back together, everything was sealed back up again tight and all components are moving as they should. I just don't understand.

Send the engine to Paul @ U.K. Paul will diagnose it for you.

Just got my engine back from Paul at Cleveland Models. It must have been a dodgy one, not bothered though as you can pay £200 on a picco or something and you are still going to get the odd one thats a duffer. Anyway just running this one in and it seems fine. My advice though if you are in the UK, buy one from a UK model shop rather than importing it,(I know of a couple of shops that are selling them if you can't find one, just send me a pm) it might cost you a couple of quid more bit at least if you have a problem you only have to send it by Royal Mail to middlesborough and not the other side of the world.
My opinion~ still a a great engine at a bargain price

Matt

Just been out with my Mta4 and my engine is running great. Not even touched the LSN and its popping wheelies all over the place. Fantastic

another great & satisfied customer :nod:

Thanks for your support!

Pullstart wont retract when connected
 

HI,

I started breaking in the STS today.
I think I need to adjust or something because the motor has no bottom and I can tell something is not catching. Probably the clutch. But when it gets going it is crazy fast.

Anyway. the pullstart won't retract if it is screwed onto the back plate. I removed it from the engine and it worked fine, I checked all the moving parts and I didn't see a problem. When attached to the engine, I have to tug on it an play around and it will retact little by little. Perhaps the pullstarter assembly becomes slightly mishapen when attached to the engine? I am not sure if a new one would fix the problem.

Any ideas?

I can't wait to get the clutch set up properly. I can already tell this is motor is more powerfull than the stocker that came with my 4.6 SS

Yes,if you screw the screws very tight,the plastic case will change its shape a little and get locked. Please loosen the screws a little. Not need to screw it very tight. It will not leak there. if you worry about it you can use some screw lock.

Bit of an update for you. Today I drag raced a JATO down the straight at my local onroad track with my MTA4 sts.28 and it easily matched it for pace. The only downside is the JATO actually goes around corners at speed. Next time I will just run it over

He he.. yes run that Jato over.

I have a question. Since my break in process was interrupted, what should I do with the engine until the roto-start arrives.

I ran through 2 tanks at idle then started to run it when I realized the clutch needed to be adjusted. At that point, the pullstarter broke. Is this engine going to run like crap now? Can I continue the break in process without any ill effects.

Does anybody know of a compatible pullstart or where I can order one. I do not want to wait 10 days to get it from HK.,

Thanks

there is a guy on ebay who has them and the rotostart so maybe this is faster for you
(can't remember the guy's name anymore damn)

Try: for the rotostart back plate

England & Ireland Distributor
Cleveland Models
Unit 33,Forbes Building
Linthorpe Road
Middlesbrough
Cleveland
TS1 4AW
Contact : Paul
Website : www.clevelandmodels.co.uk
e-mail : [email protected]
Phone & Fax : 01642 241511

Might be quicker for you. If you do have to wait then maybe bang some after run in and then when you get the back plate start your breakin again

Thanks .. I tried the hyper .21 pullstart it was close but not quite.. then I ruined it trying to modify it.. Does anybody know where to get a pull or rotostart for the sts .28 in the States? The guy on Ebay is in Hong Kong too.


Thanks

Hear in the US its http://www.projectzen.net and call them to

Thanks.. I called them and left a message.. There doesn't seem to be any way for me to order a pullstart from that page.

I should have know better. How could I have been so stupid to purchase a motor that has absolutely no support in the States. This sucks and I am sorry I ordered the fucking thing.

What are the factory needle settings for this. The manual seemed to leave that information out.

It won't take that long to get one from HK. PM dino, maybe he can help.
Factory needle settings are in this thread a few times.

Put a washer behind each screw for the pullstart (for spacing) until your new one comes in. I had an OS that was doing that, and that got me by till I got a new one.

During break-in, loosen the plug when trying to start your engine. It helps ssave your pullstart. Hang in there, you're frustrated now, but you'll be all smiles once you get it tuned. It's a monster!!

Hi thanks for the reply.. Sorry for the bad language.. I am just really frustrated.. anyway.. I think, between the hyper 21 pullstart, and the current STS I can make it work.. I just need to figure out how to get that spring wound up and attached to the bottom of the pullstart casing..

Cool I was able to rebuild the pullstart using some parts from a hyper .21 PS and some dremel-ing. Damn, rebuilding the pullstart is kinda hard but now I feel like B. A. Baracus

Don't forget to loosen the plug a little.

Pitty you can't use starter boxes on those MT's. I don't think I could live without my starter box for the onroad and buggy.
I had enough of pullstart issues when I first started R/C with the force and hyper engines..

Mate - you hit the nail on the head there. Pullstarts are just plain un-cool. And rotostarts are a bit mickey mouse. You can't beat a starter box with direct flywheel contact. My 1/8th buggy is alot less fuss to start. The thing is, we don't want MTs to turn into truggies - well I don't. But there may be some clever way to solve some of these starting hassles, without having to rely on one way bearings, crank pins, pullstarts and iffy roto starts. I'm sure it's just a matter of time. More than likely, designs are on the boards (so to speak) right now.

i have seen a pic once from a guy who had altered his savage so he could use some kind of starter mechanisme on his flywheel but i can't seem to remember where but it is possible ( i saw it )

Thats why if you cant use a starter box find a good friend and use his 1/8 buggy for a day and easy starting :D

I heard that some guy had removed a large portion of his right side TVP so that he could start his Savage with a hand held starter. How he cleared the exhaust etc was never fully explained. But it would still be cool.

Damn.. I still haven't been able to break in the motor because of the hurricane.

Horatio, can I ask what your signature means?

It's coming soon!!!! a place to get STS offroad engines and parts here in the US.
http://www.racernine.com/sts.html

we are currently building the site and have some engines and parts ordered
also check out the rest of the site there are some cool vids of us winning the odonnels championship with the sts.28 motor and some other racing vids also some tips and stuff and the life story of our truck the outlaw

thats one mean backplate...cool STS
http://www.racernine.com/images/STSpics/28backApart.jpg

I just received my STS .28 and can't wait to get it going. Every photo I have seen of the STS .28 (including the above photo) shows the crank case as grey (aluminum color) with a black cooling head. The engine I received is all black, including the crank case.

I think it looks great but is this new/normal?
Thanks.
carlk

I can't get the STS to hold a tune. When i got it, I brought it to the LHS to have them seal it. I ran through 2 tanks idle then adjusted the clutch and started driving it.. but like I said it doesn't hold a tune at all and is erratic. I am not happy with the engine and will be looking into getting a refund or a new carb.