right now i think this engine sucks. :flaming: i just bought the roto start because my pit man broke my pull start. i instulled it and tryed to start the engine and after 15 seconds it started making a funny noise and then the roto start wouldn't turn any more. i took the roto start off and saw that i couldn't spin the shaft that the roto start big gear goes on to. the one that goes through the backplate and the oneway ataches to. i took the backplate off and pulled the c-clip off the shaft and it still didn't move. i had to hammer it out and when i did i saw that the copper bushing was getting eaten up by the shaft and there was copper fileings all over the shaft/ i cleaned them all off and put the enine back together and tryed starting it and the same thing happened. :flaming: :flaming:

is there somthing wronge that i did? i'm just mad because now i cant go racing this weekend and i havent been able to race much all year and i was looking forward to racing tomarow and now i cant go. is there an thing i can do to fix this or is it just a faulty roto start?

any help is apreciated ;)

Sounds like the motor is still tight. Thats why everyone says to do the above or else youll find your start mechanisms failing.

Rotostart also needs to be a rotostart system not a drill start , just in case you used that.

my engine is not tight at all. i can spin the flyweel over pretty easly when it is cold with the glow plug in. there is enough compression for the engine to run but it not realy thight where i can barely turn the fly wheel over and i did use a roto start. my drill doesn't even have enough rpm to get the engine running. i took the o-ring that was on the shaft off and that seams like it stoped the ware on the bushing but now it will proably leak out of the back plat through there but then again the pull start doen't have a o-ring on the shaft so maby it wont.

davo so sorry to hear yer problem. i hope yer hobbyshop or someone who sold u will help u there. i got mine so tight..yes very tight as when u push the piston, the sleeve will come up. after 20 tanks of run-in & racing 45minutes main.. it still got tons of compression.
i think u better ask the person who sold u this. if u say ur engine is not tight at all when u just got it..than thats the problem. big problem. u must've been cheated.

well i bought it from ryan from racernine.com

Ryan... then it shud be tight. ryan been into this sts business long enough NOT to cheat others. something must have been gone wrong. why don u call him direct. im sure he can help u in anyway he can. he's a great guy. he's sts engine been in Mexico already & winning(Pato Concha's).

or is the engine already been run-in? just curious. :weird:

well i did run it allready. there is no way it could be ryans fault. the engine was still shrinkwraped and i highly dout he or any one would cheat me out. it may have been just the piston and seeve wernt a good match. im just sick of having problems though. between my truck and the stock engine and now this :cry: :rolleyes: its just one more think to add on to the pile. i havent had one day at the track yet that i didn't have any problems and i was hoping i finaly got all the bugs worked out and then this haddened.

well i just found out i had a major air leak in the back plate today. i sealed it up with rtv and now i got alot more compression but i didn't get a chace to run it today because of the rain.

pheeewww :sweat: :sweat:
knew there were something wrong. glad u found it. yea, rain could spoil the day. dont worry. the 28 make u wait worthwhile. i guarantee u. :nod:

rc peace! :cool:

i need to go buy some new plugs so what is a good plug to run with 20% OD? the ones i had before were not hot enough so i need a plug on the hot side.

thanks

im using enya hot plug. i've tried OS...but seems to be leaking.

Dave
you have a pm. lets get you a new motor. ;) quit messing with a bad one

man... when im gonna get such offer :cry: :cry: :cry:

so how's the .30 Ryan?

Ok guys i am just about ready to pull this motor out and use it as a paper weight!!!! :flaming: :flaming: :flaming:. When the motor is running its a rocket no doubt. So whats the problem you ask? Actually getting it to start. It takes forever and i mean forever. I have tried leaning the LSN, i have tried richening the LSN. I have tried 2 different pipes. I am running a medium plug (LRP no:4). I am all out of ideas, please help!!

ok, this is my experience... i use hot plug.
i open up like more than 1mm gap the carb. i pull the pressure fuel hose from pipe & blow. i stop when the fuel reaches the carb. i peak my glow starter & push it on the starter box, it normally start. at least start and if died afterward..meaning the tuning problem. mine 2T HSN, LSN 4T.
anything else...u shud open the engine to check.

this i use on my truggy(no pullstart).

jfc, I have the roto start version. I run 20% nitro and it doesnt seem to matter how much or little throttle you use.

ok....
i know this.. to start engine need only 3 things.
1) Air: check your air filter, Carb opening, idle screw
2)Fire: glow plug, get the hot one or the medium one(yer LRP no.4 is it hot or cold?)
3)Fuel: good fuel(old usually it will not start) & fuel flow. restricted or not.

Im using 25% nitro & the 28 built for 30%. need to remove shims to 0.3mm or 0.4mm.

check this 3. if these ok... open your engine. have a look inside.something not right.
for me... always my glow starter :blush: . i borrowed from firneds..it start rightfully. :nod:

check this
engine start! and here
tuning link at RC Car Action

95% of the time its your glow ignitor not being hot enough. Charge it up to its max , replace the batteries if its that type. If that doesnt do it , give your glow-ignitor a nice clean in some alcohol to remove the oils and such. Dry it and retry.

I know with the ones that use D and C cell alkalines. You get maybe 1 minutes worth of power time thats effective enough to start the motor its first start. Otherwise you gotta give them a rest so they can return there power back to a high enough level to start your car.

I highly suggest the hobbico lattern style battery starter or a starter box power panel if you have one. This will give you ample time and juice to start these big boys.

ok so motor runs good but is hard to start. is it hard to start the first time when its cold, or hard to start when it is hot. How old is the motor. does it show any sign of a front bearing leak.
if its hard to start cold . is it flooding or not getting fuel? richen or lean the LSN as needed. also be sure to run the motor out of fuel and use just a little after run oil . this make allot of difference in restarting esp if your killing by plugging the pipe and flooding out the motor.

Doesnt matter wether hot or cold. The motor has barely had 3 litres through it and is only about 4 or so weeks old. Front bearing is fine compression is great. I have tried leaning and richening the LSN makes no difference. I have found that on my starter box which has inbuilt glow igniter that the power wire was only hanging on be a few strands and have now rewired and soldered all power wires so fingers crossed this was the problem.

jfc, the plug is a medium however i will get some hot ones and try them also.

Thanks for the input guys its such a shame that this is happening as this motor is a dead set rocket.

Cheers Dan

ya you must get a hot plug. i just got a mc 59 and the engine is running great now :D

Well Guys i am happy to report my troubles seem to be over. I rewired the starter box and fired first go. Warmed it up stopped it and same thing first go.

AI, you are right it doesnt like being stopped by the pipe much so i will change the way i do that.

I would like to once again thank you all for your information it has helped me greatly.

I agree :) I use a power panel for every day starting (mounted into my r/c box). Its got a dial for how much heat I want :)
Runs on a 12V 7AH battery so lasts a long long time.

I think that was ryan that spoke about not using the pipe shutdown method. But yeah I come to the personal conclusion that stopping a motor by the flywheel is the best method. A shoe or anything rubbery and that you can apply pressure to on the flywheel.

I agree with not using pipe method , it just loads the engine up so the next fire is a hard one.

I know other people who pinch off their fuel lines. Im always afraid this might shoot the motor up in rpm...but thats another way to try. I havent tried that method.

But yeah its always the starter. Its really come down to that most of the time , at least if the needle settings are right.

Air + Fuel + spark = engine will run. One of those is missing , it wont fire and its near impossible to not have fuel and air entering an engine if everything is right. Its almost always the spark.

slow-mtx(but fast savage), ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, im so glad when i read that its ok now. :sweat:
as always.. as me & art_I said, 95% its the glow igniter. thats why, when im serious in racing(sometimes not :blush: ), i always give my pitman 2 or 3 glow igniters to try.

yes as ryan said, little after-run oil & no no no pipe style stopping. i just use my shoe at the flywheel. best for me.

Yeah i am happy its all good now. Raced tonight and the engine was great, just the truck needs some work in the handling department, but that will come when the new LCG chassis arrive and get installed.

That's what I do for my 1/8th buggy - so that would apply to Truggies too.

On the Savage and other MT's where there is no flywheel access, you just have to block the exhaust. The engine should be fine to start next time - primed and ready to start, so long as you have good glo and your mixtures aren't overly rich. Should the engine become loaded up and flooded (for whatever reason), it's just a case of removing the glo plug, turn the engine over a few times to clear the cylinder, replace the plug - and you're good to go again.

yea the handling department... why always this department the problem one. :D :lol: :lol: :lol:
cant wait to see yer LCG. ;)

That's what I do for my 1/8th buggy - so that would apply to Truggies too.

great info. glad u can help me here. :nod:

for the savage they sell a ez shut down system for like 7 bucks from hpi and it works great, it goes to the flywheel and stops it from spinning.
but either way i never had problems shutting from the pipe.

Cool! I've never seen one, but what a good idea! :cool:

Guys,


Im on a little BB conversion with my Tamiya TNX PRO, currently running an OS .18TZ engine ...

The thing is that im between the .21B, .21E and .28M engine ... almost decided which to mount but im very preocupied about the power difference between the .21B and .28M engines, i dont want to destroy my diffs and transmission during racing, i use my MT "JUST" for racing ...

thanks for any help guys ...

Tabushi... i have both 21B & D28M.
for yer TNX, i advice get the 21B pullstart. The 28M is too strong for yer TNX. the torque is super crazy... imagine savage backflip! :eek:

my truggy is powered by the 28M... and its overpowered. im thinking of using my 21B (Turbo plug, non pullstart) to replace it. the 21B got enough power & rpm to propel the truggy.

THANKS JFC !! ...

.21B Pullstart ? it does exist ?

http://www.racernine.com/images/STSp...v31smaller.jpg

from the image of racernine website & as the engine manual too ... the pullstart is available. same as the d28m.
i specifically asked for non one. :)
u lucky, u started with the Team engine. i cant imagine driving the team engine. even at 21B, i already smiling ear to ear. the torque is there... my X1CR(FTE hybrid) almost wheelie on trigger. cool engine.

to make the B motor a pullstart you would have to install a .28 crank shaft
backplate, and oneway, along with a pullstart.
you could do the same to your team motor and run it on your tnx :sneaky: :sneaky:

i use this nova long body plug with success.
well, not yet racing success but u know what im saying. im using Hot Stuff 25% with 1 bronze shim & silver shim.

i did my engine run-in like this. Josh Cyrul style. :nod:

WOT style!

The piston/sleeve still tight and even push the sleeve up after 12 tanks. compression unbelievable.

but remember, 1st tank do the heat-cycle style.. as per dino/manual mentioned. :nod: :nod: :nod:

thanks to Art_I for the info. :)

from hpi website:

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pa...img_5852km.jpg
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pa...8/p85068am.jpg
http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/pa...img_5855km.jpg

nice ozpall... and can u post it again at this HPI savage thread . thanks. :)