sorry for the late reply. yes thats about the correct HSN/LSN factory setting. it does happen like that depending whats yer outside temp.

dont worry as long as it starts. keep small increment of needle turning clockwise after every tank. like 1/2hr turn. FRom what u said your HSN is all the way out it shud be really rich. but its ok for run-in the engine.

my final needle at 35degree Celcius outside temp end up at HSN 2T LSN 4T.

Yeah 2 out on the HSN is wayyyyyyy to lean if you ask me. Make the needle flush on the HSN and make the lsn poke a bit from the brass throttle linkage on the lsn.

In reality you shouldnt even touch your motor from the factory as thats where its set....it can be off , but not much and thats where your user input comes in to adjust it a bit to your environment , glow plug and fuel.

If you can get it to fire....thats a correct setting and at least close to it. This is why you shouldnt really listen or worry about factory settings. When you goto tune a motor you want to set it to have good smoke , cool running (at least not overly hot) and lots of power.

As for break-in you want to set it as rich as possible , without making it want to shut off all the time.

I thought 2 turns for teh HSN was too lean, as it was a fair bit below the brass housing. So I made it flush and even set it 2-3 turns further out. As for the LSN, it was screwed just about all the way out of the brass housing.

Got it firing consistently, and have been using the heat-cycling method to break it in. Had about 5 runs of getting it up between 80-100C (around 3 mins runnig normally), and the needles are slowly moving in. Each new run I have had to turn the needles in a bit to get it running. The HSN is now flush, and teh LSN is about 1-2 turns out from flush.

So hopefully a few more heat-cycling runs and it will be firing more consistently. Making sure there is plenty of smoke. Thanks for the advice!!

yep usually 2T out HSN is waaayyyyy too lean. but as for my case, its the right one. i even gone thru that setting for 45minutes Main. no problem. it even got light smoke on the straight top :nod: as i said, dont follow others setting ... racing tune i mean. with different outside temp & humidity. definitely diff from every individual. unless u live near me.

for engine run-in, as usual, as long as it start & the idling is good for run-in..then thats the tune u want. im not saying u shud idling it. no no no. use whatevr method u favor, either the WOT style or the manufacturer recommend. its your engine after all. but keep it rich. really rich. even u use WOT, the vehicle wont move. best to clear everything inside the engine.

all the best. im sure u gonna enjoy the engine after the full run-in. :nod:

What is WOT method for breaking in??

Wide Open Trottle. try here Cyrul break-in proceudre in another thread.

read the response & post by the great himself,Cyrul Josh. :nod:

ok i'm back, last i posted was on page 16 whatever the date was.
i been running my sts .28 since february, i have it on my savage with an SH max torque pipe and is still running great, i broke the string on the pull start but that's about it. i stripped a set of wheels hex all 4 due to so much power( i just got 23mm), i run the engine on the rich side so i can control the truck. i run the engine on my buggy inferno 7.5mp i modified the engine mount and made it fit and it run great as well. i'm going to order another sts 28 so i can just keep it on my buggy which i converted into a truggy so it will be fine.
the one thing i can say about this engine is that I never ever have to tune it, after i tuned if for the first couple of times till i like the power its been on the same settings ever since. i had it sitting for a month with gas on the gas tank, no after run oil or nothing and i just went and tried and it starts right up. i should also say that it starts on 2 or 3 pulls.
just though i let everyone knows!
thanks.

i also forgot to ad that i'm running vented CB, aluminum clutch shoes, 4 bevel gears and aluminum diff cases, other wise is just too much power for my little savage.

yea, u rock there. :cool:
yea, u need all those setup even for the mighty savage. any engine less, wont be as much fun as it now. :nod:
your buggy must be flying, man. keep us posted. and picture if u can. :D

is thgis engine powerful, durable and reliable?

anyone know if it will work in the revo and how much it will run me?

Newera makes .28 pullstart mounts and I use that? or is this engine just too much power?

I was looking for a .18TM but if I can't find one cheap I gotta get something else

u driving revo...??
well then its too powerful for it. stick with .18 only.
Imagine Savage, the big burly stronger bash proof truck... need to mod the drivetrain to sustain the power this STS 28 brought to it.
yea, too powerful for yer revo thats for sure.

Hey there, what mods to the drivetrain would I need t make to my Savage X for this engine. I've got 4 spider gear aluminium diffs. Do I need anything else?

Wheelie bar. :sneaky:

Ive run the motor in my savage-x with no problems. Im pretty sure the savage is meant to run a high power motor as this with pretty much no problems , except for wheelies all the time.

denifitely need the wheelie bar. thats why u need bigger Clutch Bell(CB) like 17 to 47 spur to tame the torque.
with my extended chassis.. it still wheelie on the right timing but not till it backflip as with stock chassis.
thats why John Scultz of Rock Concepts like Savage so much, he's like ambassador to HPI Savage, coz it drivetrain(mid) is bulletproof. he uses the K4.6 engine modified for racing.. n sometimes his picco with 1st gear lock. 2nd gear all the way.

i just post it what you need it, read a couple of post on top of yours. i'm running my sts 28 on a savage X too.
you can run your stock dogbones but eventually they will wear out the cups, faster than normall engines due to the power, the wheelie bar is a plus, i don't run one cause i don't like them, my savage doesn't wheelie it literally just pulls all 4 wheels and lands on its top, its funny as hell and crazy to see the power. that's why i run it a little rich.

here you go...
http://f7.yahoofs.com/users/4498cfe8...4oX0EBdiAgG_FI

http://f7.yahoofs.com/users/4498cfe8...g4X0EBxVXhIoiq

http://f7.yahoofs.com/users/4498cfe8...g4X0EB.7Owv9ST

one more what the heck! yes my cooling head has a couple of broken fings.

http://f7.yahoofs.com/users/4498cfe8...g4X0EBUuNmTLq3

this is not savage :confused: :confused: :confused:
it had flat chassis :eek:

that is my truggy, i don't have one of the savage in the air. :D

ohhhh, u wicked one :sneaky: :D :D :D
we were talking savage n boom u put yer truggy there.. :lol: :lol: :lol:
nice flight...is that truggy with STS? hmm like mine. cool. :cool:

Here is some news. We have a few of the brand new STS .30 5port motors on thier way. I will post up some pics when they arrive. Also on our site (racernine.com) you will be able to preorder them.for mid Aug delivery the few we are getting are for our own amusement and testing. :sneaky: :sneaky:

great news..
we are waiting ours too here...
totally for bashing. they NOT even allowed us more than .28. :rolleyes:

The D30M .30/5.0 should be in by next week over here. Also will have coverage , photos , reviews , videos and comparisons of this new 5 port beast.

http://www.pro-hobby.net

the more the merrier :D

BTW, where's dino :confused: :confused: :confused:
i miss this guy... :weird: :cry:

yeah i had my sts on my truggy for a while and then i put it back on the savage.
i just ordered a new .28 for the truggy it should be here in a couple of days thanks to Ryan.

Hey guys -
i got my engine runnign well yeaterday. All I can say it WOW! I could not stop grinning :p :p :p

Was running nice and cool and flipping my sav X on its lid without even trying. Cn't wait to race this little puppy.

me too. i felt the same. im glad u like the engine. told ya, it need wheelie bar. even my long base truggy still can wheelie at the right time... not much but still. :nod:

I've got the rotostart version as seen here. The oneway bearing is behind the backplate i.e. inside the engine block.

Has anybody have trouble with the oneway slipping from the oil in your fuel?

I noticed that it was slipping a bit when I first started it yesterday.

inside the engine block...hmmm thats new... or i miss something here...

for the slipping..yes it happens. fuel from the engine leak out to the one-way. especially using rotostart. due to the torque & fast spinning... it easy to spoil yer one-way bearing. whenever it can't be started.. check whether the engine flooded. STS got strong compression. u cant feel the tension when using roto. easy to break the one way. easy just clean out the fuel/oil. and if its new, try open a bit the plug like quarter turn to release some compression.

sorry, my english is poor. :blush:

Yes the one way is inside the engine block.
This is the rotostart backplate. And this is the one way that fits on the end of the torostart shaft. The oneway is between the backplate and the engine crank, with the little pin in the oneway turning the crank. So it is inside the block yes?

Just a little weird I think as the oneway bearing is external to the backplate on the stock savage engines.

Yes the oneway does sometimes slip due to the oil in the fuel. a couple suggestions to limit the slipping
1.. use a fuel with 12% or less oil
2.. always run your motor completely out of fuel at the end of the day.
3.. use an afterun oil to clear out the caster as thats what becomes gummy
4.. store your truck nose down so if there is some fuel in the one way it will run out.

wow :eek:
thats interesting. it seems like that. and it must be then.

i think u check the o-ring. usually thats the culprit. the #280103-2.

ok ryan ere. thank goodness. :sweat:

i just got the sts 28 for my lsp and it is running too hot. what are your needle settings? i all ready broke it in and i am so far off on the needles i just need to get it in the ball park again. thanks

opps double post

STS .30 Release
 

Hello
Just letting people from the UK and Ireland that the release of the .30 Engine will be early next week.If you are thinking about purchasing one,or any STS item just follow this link.
www.clevelandmodels.co.uk

ok stock mine was 3T HSN, LSN flushed(4 - 4.5T). just make sure lots of smoke and up to temp. running, racing tune, (mine HSN=2T, LSN=4T). totally different from yours. my outside temp always at the region of 35 Celcius to 38 Celcius.

STS .30 pics are here
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...69#post2573169

i started my break-in process last nite, i left the needles the way they came, i open up the carb a little bit and after running it for a little bit i did had to richen up the HSN, we can not tell you how many turns on the needle settings cause temp is different. if you are running to hot just richen it and keep checking temp.
later.

no i was way too rich so that also caused it to run hot. my lsn was set at 6 1/4 turns out.

one question i have is how tight was your engine when you got it? i have people telling me that theirs was so tight that they had to heat it up and lossen the glowplug to get it to start. Mine, i didn't need to heat it up or lossen the glow plug. i could pull start it with no problems. why did mine have almost no pinch?