Mine was running very well at the gallon mark too at similar temps. Things started to change when I hit 2 gallon and didn't seem to hold the tune too well. I am going to lean it to about 250 - 260F this weekend and see what happens. The weather sucks here in Hong Kong as well...been about 80-95% humidity with a 25-30Celsius Temp!!

it runs good, 200 F, about 95 C :D

Guys, just tested my STS .21T and im very impressed, even when the manual says that for 35ºC weather temp the engine must go up to 140ºC, i run mine on 97ºC mark and wow, the engine its doing great ... :


- Video 01 : http://images.domino.org/d/57077-1/2...cha_01_LBR.wmv

- Video 02 : http://images.domino.org/d/57080-1/2...cha_02_LBR.wmv

- Video 03 : http://images.domino.org/d/57083-1/2...cha_03_LBR.wmv

- Video 04 : http://images.domino.org/d/57086-1/2...cha_04_LBR.wmv



enjoy,

another satisfied customer. :nod: :nod:
love yer videos. :cool:

Excellant car, nice engine and good driver I saw in the video,

I can't get the videos to work for some reason. Sounds good though!! :blush:

Update your Window Media Player, :lol:

The last post got me thinking - as it turns out, it's not my Media Player (it's up to date) - it was my anti-virus/security settings. It's all sorted now!!

Great videos and yep - good driving too, it's very dusty and slippery isn't it?!! #Cough#!!

I went to tune my Buggy yesterday, the .28 engine on it was too much for the place . where a lot of holes and loose rock on the ground. the engien is too powerful to drive until I richen it up quite a bit.

I was having fun until the pull star string breaks :cry:
overall I like this engine much better then the orion .28 I used to have on my old MBX-5

is .28 be too much for the X1CRT?
on my savage, should be ok...but on truggy? any comment?

the .28 is perfect for the truggies. :nod: :nod:

i don have to install wheelie of some sort or roll cage, rite :sneaky:
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Our driver for pro-hobby runs one in his jammin truggy. Works great , hes finishing in the top 3 in most races he attends. Its a modified version, but stock is more than fine. We also are using some of the STS venturis / reducers to increase fuel milage a bit. Along with a JP-2 and JP-1 pipe.

Its worth a try, see how it manages on your track.

is the stock .28 not fuel efficient ..not even last 8 or 10 minutes??? :eek: :eek:
man, should install bigger tank then. maybe the XTM mammoth big tank. :nod:

try the STS pipe if you havent already, we have run the jp1 and the STS pipe will give you even better top end without giving up any bottom performance.

I couldnt get him to run it if I tried. LOL. Iam running it on my new setup though. Definently a screamer the two.

just tell him that instead of being in the top three he will always be #1 with some more top end going down the straights. :lol: :lol: :lol:

hi guys... just done a day ago the 1st international HPC truggy race.
i can say this. at 12 tanks, the engine is already a beast. it wheelie my CRT with lots of smoke. i only managed 3rd qualifier and end up DNF due to stock manifold(CRT RTR :blush: ) broken. the time i stop i already 2nd. maybe the 1st time bad bug. with that, i still managed 7th place. i tot im sure the last one. main objective achieved : not to be last on my 1st maiden race with CRT and STS D28M. :lol: :lol: :lol:
4 info, the stock carbon clutch done 4 good. my sponsor replaced with blue alum with gold harder spring. the best accelaration ever. have 2 change trigger style. instant power. even with big stock brick pin tire, the jammin still can wheelie. sure the engine is the culprit :D :D
to STS, congrats. the best D28M engine for truggy. sad couldn't do the same like racernine sponsor driver, to win on 1st maiden race :cry: :cry:

and yes, i want the STS inline pipe :flaming:

for info, my HSN: 2 1/2T LSN: 4T out.
using only 25% Sindewinder. outside temp around 35C. inside head temp +-147C. Blue Alum shoes with Gold hard springs.
i think still in run-in process. lots of smoke. up to now, only 18 tanks.

Can anyone tell me what STS stands for?

I think it stands for, Sh%t to start, or Shameless to start! :flaming:

I have just broken in my 2nd STS and I will not buy another! I prefer to pay a extra $50 and have a little less power, than to have no reliability when starting..... Ok now you going to tell me to release the glow plug, did that! or how about the old line dont just let the cord go, Was aware of this so I never. Infact some how the spring broke today whilst the car was running, or on the pull that fired it up. I went through 1x set of roto plate gears and 2x pull starts on 1st engine. Now the 2nd engine has been through 2x pull starts and onto 1st roto start. My friend who also just broke in his engine has also broke a string, replaced that to have the spring fail within 1ltr of fuel.

At $35.00NZ a pull start there is no way this engine is cheaper to buy and keep going than the other more expensive engine. My Bro's HPI K4.6 has just gone on and on, and as for pull start, his string has worn through a brass washer... No problems there.

So to sum up, great engine when going, but trying to get it going is just not worth the hassle.

If you guys had warranties on your starters I think you would either
A) Re-designed them to last better. or
B) Gone bankrupt trying to replace faulty parts.

I hope one day you fix this issue so I can once again enjoy a running STS

:nod:

Its a tight motor. You can brake any motor if its not capable of turning over. A lot of times people dont know the motor is at TDC and its stuck. Yanking on the rope will rip it in half. The obvious tearing of the rope shows that too much force was used to try to get the motor unstuck. You need to heat the motor and loosen the glow-plug , loosening is not going to do much without the heating.

Im now using a pull-start d28m in my new savage-x. No problems so far as im watching what im doing. You also dont want to pull the starter but 6-8inches out , if your pulling it all the way out. Thatll do it.

Also drill based rotostarts will destroy your rotostart. As well, starting a seized motor with a rotostart will also destroy it. Always make sure the flywheel is loose, which lets you know the motor is ready to turn over.

man, i wish Ryan of Racernine is here to answer this, this, whoever u are. i pity u, man. :o :rolleyes:

I am here. I agree with what artificial one has posted. unlike the savage k4 motor the STS has pinch and compression. If all you have ever ran is motors that come in RTR vehicles then you have to adj to the new conditions you find in the STS motors. Motors that are made for and come with RTR vehicles are purposely made with less pinch and compression So the person who buys it which is usually a first timer has a better chance of getting thru breakin with no problems, Some of the RTR motors do run well and last quite awhile if breakin is done right. Anyway back to your problems with the STS.
If you plan on trying to run them some more first find out thier condition
if you have had problems getting them to start,and your blowing up roto and pullstarts. your motor must be very rich and flooding when starting. try adj the HSN to 2-1/2 turns out from closed . preheat your motor and then try to start it. with a pullstart grasp the handle underhanded and move close enough to your truck that when you pull your hand hits you in the stomach before it reaches the end of the rope..

STS .21 onroad
 

have anyone out there tested this engine??how is the performance compare to novarossi?

yep tons of compression. im so lucky im using starter box with my truggy. and its the same way when using pullstart. i always use the reverse(underhand) grip to pull it. and short fast pull.
as dino said, we built engine for racing thats why it got tons of compression.

any1 here ever use the 28 with JP1/Jp2 pipe?
here we out of stock for the STS pipe. currently using stock HN pipe. thanks.

the JP1 pipe works good with the .28 I havent tried the JP2

thanks on order now, the anodized brown color JP1.

Well I would like to add that I adhere to all that is stated, I am aware that STS starters pull or roto are not to the standard they should be, and I do as mentioned. No one reads advice and ignores it so they can get a bummer buzz at the track. I dont think that the racing engine yarn is good enough either, the bottom line is that some serious work needs to be done to the starter system/s to ensure that STS is around for years to come. If the engine is exceptionally tight then design a exceptionally tough starter. Or offer a warranty as I have had these starters fail time and time again..... and don't tell me it is me, other brands can handle my use, and I was never so gentle with them!

on behalf of myself as a STS user, i acknowledged yer problem. im sure STS is working on it.

pullstarting: this is how i do it and also as adviced by Dino:

check the page 7, post #209. here

hope in anyway gonna help u. :nod:

i have a problem
as soon as i want to tune the LSN needle the engine starts to run in high rpm's well not immediatly but the engine
help me out here please

Did you try lowering the idle via the idle screw? Also leaning the LSN will make the engine idle higher.

i tried everything but i don't think you understand what i mean
it starts acting funny like it is running lean and very hihg rpm
then when i hit the throttle it runs great again
when i go WOT on a parking lot and i let go on the throttle the engine revs high
strange

Well I understood as much as I could from what you wrote. But yeah from what you explain now it sounds like your LSN is too lean or idle is too high. Try richening it and go from there. STS motors kind of like a rich bottom end.

What kind of plug and fuel are you running on the motor. Id still also try to get that idle as low as possible.

i run tornado 20 % (the new one they make special for monstertrucks and buggy's, has more oil in it)
the plug is an OS 8

i have just put a new carb on the engine because i had a lott off trouble with the old one (could get it to tune either, even after i changed the o-rings)

here are some pics (i hardly even touched the LSN)

http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...h_DSC00005.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i7...h_DSC00004.jpg

i noticed u put it on savage..great.
anyway, whats yer HSN /LSN?
mine at HSN 2T: LSN 4T. run great. and yes, STS 28 likes to have a rich bottom end.

I have a problem with my D28M, it is the pull start, the string of the pull broke on its own not long after I fire up the car, I didn't know what happend but often time just after a few tanks of fuel, when I examine the car, the pull is gone, I like pull start as a basher but it keep broke on me. this is the fourth that break with no clear cause

try dino advice here pg 7, post #209.

mine still original. :nod:

Breaking in STS .28 - Can't Start - Factory Needle Settings??
 

Ive just bought myself an STS .28 and am having trouble getting it started for break-in.

I read here that they are HSN - 2 turns LSN 3 to 4 turns. I set it at these settings but it refuses to start unless the needles are just about all the way out.

I've sealed the engine (carby, backplate, and fuel nipple) and have got the needles just about all the way out.

It pretty much refuses to start unless the needles are just about all the way out.

Once they are all just about all the way out it fires up, and spits lots of fuel as expected.

Will these settings improve with time, or am I missing something here?

Does anybody know any tips on getting it running easier?