Nova S21WCS09 - Broken Conrod
#1
Hi,
My Nova S21WCS09 (Kangaroo)'s conrod is busted after only about 4 liters of nitro through it.
I have always run my engine slightly on the rich side, with temps approximately between 95 to 110 degrees celsius.
Pictures of the parts in question is shown below. Not sure if by looking at the pictures, whether anyone can shed some light on the cause of this so that I can at least take preventive measures in future.
thanks in advance.
My Nova S21WCS09 (Kangaroo)'s conrod is busted after only about 4 liters of nitro through it.
I have always run my engine slightly on the rich side, with temps approximately between 95 to 110 degrees celsius.
Pictures of the parts in question is shown below. Not sure if by looking at the pictures, whether anyone can shed some light on the cause of this so that I can at least take preventive measures in future.
thanks in advance.
#2
The funny thing is that the sleeve has a lot of dark spots what gives me the idea you have runned a fuel with castor oil but the piston is compleetly blank. Or you have runned a bad fuel or you had a very tight pinch.
I have a goal to replace the rod before 5 liter of use, for sure when it had a tight pinch for a long time.
I have a goal to replace the rod before 5 liter of use, for sure when it had a tight pinch for a long time.
#3
The funny thing is that the sleeve has a lot of dark spots what gives me the idea you have runned a fuel with castor oil but the piston is compleetly blank. Or you have runned a bad fuel or you had a very tight pinch.
I have a goal to replace the rod before 5 liter of use, for sure when it had a tight pinch for a long time.
I have a goal to replace the rod before 5 liter of use, for sure when it had a tight pinch for a long time.
funny thing is I had ordered a r7 conrod and intended to replace it... but never got around to it.
I now have a very dirty paper weight... not worth rebuilding given that the piston/sleeve/conrod set is almost 75% of the cost of a new engine. *sigh*
#7
#8
to break in the engine, i idled it on the box for 3 tanks. then on track for a further 3 tanks, and leaning top end thereafter.
Race tuning only started about the 10th tank or so.
I was using Mecca fuel with 25% nitro content. it does not state the % of castor, but some pple who also uses it at my local track rates the castor % at approxiamtely 12%.
#9
Tech Addict
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 729
Hmm, I would say it's the fuel quality that made it bust at that stage.
By looking at the pic you posted, I can't really tell if the piston and sleeve are damaged, but they look OK from what I can see.
If the piston DOESN'T have any major scratches down the side of it, and the sleeve has no scratches either, you are lucky and can just get a new rod.
Just make sure you completely clean out the engine of any pieces left by the busted rod so you don't completely ruin an engine!
By looking at the pic you posted, I can't really tell if the piston and sleeve are damaged, but they look OK from what I can see.
If the piston DOESN'T have any major scratches down the side of it, and the sleeve has no scratches either, you are lucky and can just get a new rod.
Just make sure you completely clean out the engine of any pieces left by the busted rod so you don't completely ruin an engine!
#10
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 478
it looks like this motor has had a very hot glow plug and this could of been running rich.
you can tell by the wear on the exhaust side of the piston
the rings on the side of the piston are complete gone "groves"
i would like to see a pic of the top of the piston to see if i am right.
ps dj the bottom of the piston skirt is gone
you can tell by the wear on the exhaust side of the piston
the rings on the side of the piston are complete gone "groves"
i would like to see a pic of the top of the piston to see if i am right.
ps dj the bottom of the piston skirt is gone
#11
hmmmm...
to break in the engine, i idled it on the box for 3 tanks. then on track for a further 3 tanks, and leaning top end thereafter.
Race tuning only started about the 10th tank or so.
I was using Mecca fuel with 25% nitro content. it does not state the % of castor, but some pple who also uses it at my local track rates the castor % at approxiamtely 12%.
to break in the engine, i idled it on the box for 3 tanks. then on track for a further 3 tanks, and leaning top end thereafter.
Race tuning only started about the 10th tank or so.
I was using Mecca fuel with 25% nitro content. it does not state the % of castor, but some pple who also uses it at my local track rates the castor % at approxiamtely 12%.
#13
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 178
The worst thing you can do to a new engine is to let it idle like that during the break in process. The rod was put under enormous stress when the engine was run too cold. You must make sure you get the engine up to temperature as soon possible and maintain that temp. I would advice you do a search on heat cycling during the break-in process. When running a new engine in, more damage is done when the engine is below 80 degrees then if it was running at 130 degrees plus. After breaking in an engine, I would replace the original rod after no more then 3 litres.
#14
it looks like this motor has had a very hot glow plug and this could of been running rich.
you can tell by the wear on the exhaust side of the piston
the rings on the side of the piston are complete gone "groves"
i would like to see a pic of the top of the piston to see if i am right.
ps dj the bottom of the piston skirt is gone
you can tell by the wear on the exhaust side of the piston
the rings on the side of the piston are complete gone "groves"
i would like to see a pic of the top of the piston to see if i am right.
ps dj the bottom of the piston skirt is gone
More pictures of the piston below.


#15
The worst thing you can do to a new engine is to let it idle like that during the break in process. The rod was put under enormous stress when the engine was run too cold. You must make sure you get the engine up to temperature as soon possible and maintain that temp. I would advice you do a search on heat cycling during the break-in process. When running a new engine in, more damage is done when the engine is below 80 degrees then if it was running at 130 degrees plus. After breaking in an engine, I would replace the original rod after no more then 3 litres.
Obviously have not been reading enough and something obviously gone way wrong some where.
the conrod that broke was the original conrod (same used throughout the breakin process). so i guess lesson learnt. expensive lesson.




