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Old 07-26-2010, 08:37 AM   #1
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Default Break/Running in new engine!

just wondering how is everyone breaking in there new mills in these, heat method, wot method, idle first few tanks, and then taking it on track slowly leaning it out.. etc

iv always used the rb method on there website.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:44 AM   #2
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I do take away the head and run the 1st tanks only with the burnroom at 90-100 degrees celcius. Then I mount a small head and run a few tanks and then the original head.

It does expand the sleeve at a rich setting but still keepng the operating temperature. It will give less forces on crank and rod and the piston will get a smoother surface.
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Old 07-26-2010, 08:59 AM   #3
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This is how I break in my engines.
My engines are faster and last longer as other people's engines.


First you have to start with acquiring some pure castor oil, I got mine from a go-kart shop, most of the time the go-kart guys only use high quality oils.

I would recommend using a castor based fuel, like Runnertime and Capricorn fuel.
Don't know if these are available in the US, maybe some US drivers can recommend some good caster based fuels.

Add 10% of the castor oil to the first liter of fuel you are going to use for break in.
Warm up the engine till 80C, takes about 15-20 minutes with a hairdryer. Don't use a heatgun, this will only heat the outside and not the liner.

Open up the high speed needle about 1.5-2 turns from factory settings for the first 4-5 tanks on the starterbox.
These 4-5 tanks will be at WOT, the wheels shouldn't start turning at this stage, but close to the point they will start turning.

After these first tanks of fuel let the engine completely cool down and close the HSN about 1 turn, just enough so the car is able to move around the track but doesn't start shifting, engine temperature needs to be around 75C.
Let the engine cool down every two tanks to let all the parts settle.
With this setting burn the remaining part of the 1 liter of fuel with the 10% extra oil.
When you completely burned the 1 liter of fuel prepare another liter but then with 5% extra castor oil.
The first 5 tanks of the 5% extra oil fuel you will need to run the engine at 90C and the car will probably start shifting regularly.
I always loosen the 2-speed a quarter of a turn for break in.

After the 5 tanks you can start tuning for performance but still with the extra oil.
After you have gone through the second liter, let the engine cool down and check if the piston is still tight in the liner, if so run it a couple more tanks till the piston isn't tight, doesn't stick in the liner.
It took me 4 more tanks to get the tightness out of the liner, again with the 5% extra castor oil.

Because of the extra oil the fit of the piston inside the liner will be much better and the liner will receive a much smoother polishing which results in more revs and less wear compared to tuning an engine for max performance while the piston is still tight.
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Old 07-26-2010, 11:42 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
Add 10% of the castor oil to the first liter of fuel you are going to use for break in.
Adding a straight 10% of castor oil to a regular fuel is a lot of oil that will not be burnt and leave a lot of oil deposits on the engine.

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Open up the high speed needle about 1.5-2 turns from factory settings for the first 4-5 tanks on the starterbox.
These 4-5 tanks will be at WOT, the wheels shouldn't start turning at this stage, but close to the point they will start turning.
This is a very bad advice, with such rich adjustment of the carb, engine will not reach never their operating temp and the work done with the hairdryer will be futile.

WOT + Fourstroking create a lot of stress on the conrod and crank and is a sure recipe for a short living engine due to excessive wear on the upper side of the sleeve and the crown of the piston, just where the most pinch is.

Is better to go with a rich setting that allows the car to move but not shift (if is equipped with a 2speed trans) or do it very late, not allow to wind it and have the engine at about 90-100C.

Is very important to not run dry the fuel tank just because this creates a lean condition that you may not want breaking-in. Better to stop it and leave some fuel on the tank and allow to cool it to ambient temp.

Is very important to reach 90-100C just because the sleeve pinch will be gone but piston and sleeve will be almost at their normal size and wear will be almost zero, just enough to mate them two.

After 5 or 6 tanks like this allowing the engine to self cool with the piston on the BDC to not being trapped by the sleeve, start to drive and in rounds of 3 or 4 laps, start to lean very slowly (in half hour increments).

Driving and acceleration should be nimble and gentle, not allowing the engine to run full wind for long periods of time.

Temp will start to creep and raise a little, is quite normal due to the leaning but the cooling will be higher due to the more speed that car will reach.

Better to not rush a break-in, the key points are:

- Heat is not your enemy, is your friend. Like friends, just control it and put enough to reach normal temperatures. 70C is too cool and wear is really high. 90 or 100C is a much desirable temp range with much lesser wear and effort for the conrod and crankpin.
- Do not allow the tank to run dry. This may cause an overly lean condition that you do not want.
- Between tanks, allow it to cool putting the piston on the BDC to prevent being trapped on the sleeve.
- Not rush it... is better to spend a little more time than runing a P/S/C set and need to start it over.
- Use a good fuel and you do not need to add it more straight oil to the existing mix. Use whatever you want or what you have at hand, but remember: Use a good fuel.
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Old 07-26-2010, 01:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
Adding a straight 10% of castor oil to a regular fuel is a lot of oil that will not be burnt and leave a lot of oil deposits on the engine.
The fuel I use (Runnertime) has 12% oil to start with, adding the 10% isn't a problem at all


Quote:
This is a very bad advice, with such rich adjustment of the carb, engine will not reach never their operating temp and the work done with the hairdryer will be futile.

WOT + Fourstroking create a lot of stress on the conrod and crank and is a sure recipe for a short living engine due to excessive wear on the upper side of the sleeve and the crown of the piston, just where the most pinch is.

Is better to go with a rich setting that allows the car to move but not shift (if is equipped with a 2speed trans) or do it very late, not allow to wind it and have the engine at about 90-100C.
Pre heating is because the engine doesn't have the continues lubrication from the fuel while starting it and you don't want it getting stuck at tdc.

The first couple of tanks aren't about heat/ engine temperatures, but about lubrication.

If you have a lot of heat in your engine and less fuel/oil chances are that the little metal particles coming from the piston/sleeve start creating scratches.
This ruins the engines performance.

Only when the engine has gone through the first part of break in and starts going faster and faster without leaning it and actually starts shifting you are creating the fit which depends on how hot the engine is.

The loads a crankshaft ( and every other part of the engine) has to endure on 40000 RPM are a lot higher as the loads seen at WOT break in.

Breaking in an engine on low temperatures for too long will ruin an engine, but at the start surely doesn't.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:34 PM   #6
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sorry, i was just asking as iv done a few ways and i have a new engine sitting here and just wondering how everyone runs there engine in these days.

iv always been using the rb method.. and putting a sock around the head and pre-heating before each tank.

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1. Once you have started the engine let it run at idle (low RPM) for at least 125cc of fuel, the idle must be regular, and if the RPM goes down and the engine stalls, you must close the idle needle (1/4 turn at a time), and if the RPM goes up, you must open the idle needle.
2. After the engine has run at idle for 125cc, you should let the engine cool down before restarting it (be certain that the piston is not stopped at TDC), and open the main needle for at least turn more than it was originally set. We now suggest you run the engine on the track so it will be cooled properly. During this process, be sure the engine does not make too much RPM (the engine must be making a sound like a four-stroke engine and you must see fuel coming out of the pipe). If the engine makes too much RPM, close the throttle immediately and open the main needle one more turn, and repeat if necessary until the engine suffocates due to too much fuel, and in this way you will be sure there is enough lubrication and the RPM does not go too high. Run the engine like this for at least 375cc of fuel, and avoid extended periods of full throttle running.
3. After this you can start closing the main needle so the engine makes more RPM but still makes a four-stroke sound and smokes a lot, this for at least another 375cc of fuel, and avoid extended periods of full throttle running.
4. After this you can close the main needle further until you reach about 80% of the engines performance (more RPM but still smoking), this for 250cc of fuel.
5. After this you can really tune the engine to go to 90% or 95% of its power but take care so that you do not overheat the engine causing it to loose power, if this happens stop immediately and open the main needle 1/4 of a turn.
1. run 2 tanks at idle with sock around heat (preheated to 200f) letting it cool BDC between each tank
2. run engine (with a sock on its head) around the track and letting it cool at BDC between each tank. (preheat before each start aswell) for another 5 tanks
3. start to lean HSN 1hr each tank - again letting it cool BDC and start to remove the sock
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Last edited by LiL_JaSoN; 07-26-2010 at 06:46 PM.
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Old 07-26-2010, 06:48 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by LiL_JaSoN View Post
just wondering how is everyone breaking in there new mills in these, heat method, wot method, idle first few tanks, and then taking it on track slowly leaning it out.. etc

iv always used the rb method on there website.
1 Tank on the box at home, another on the box at the track and then put that beesh on the track tuned for 85% power and go racing. Each run will get leaner 'till the main when it's go time. Yes, I'm serious and yes my engines (Orion) last fine and make GREAT power. If it's cold outside or early in the morning I do put a 1/10 2.2 truck foam insert around the head to help the engine build heat.

All that being said, I'm not advising anyone to do this with their engines. Merely telling what I do with mine.
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