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Old 03-30-2005, 03:20 AM   #541
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Originally posted by Clegg
So today I went to break in my new OS TR 5p Turbo plant. Using O'Donnel 20% race fuel and the OS recommended needle settings per the little booklet, and all I got was a hellishly flooded motor.

You guys have any specific recommendations for breaking in these plants? (I stripped a pulley in my starter box so I have a few days to reaserch till I get the replacement in)

I am also getting an OS 7 plug in since in my experience a Medium plug is better for breaking in.

Theres like 530 posts in this thread, and the forum software's search logic is ass, so its a PITA to search back and see any specific post with a break-in run down.
yea..i think your needle stting is too rich....like nsxshogun mention try closing a bit either off those needles. but try first the low end needle near the throttle linkage...5/10 minutes close...

anyway there is 2 if i can say 'popular method' the 1. idling method or the 2. WOT ( wide open throttle).... but if u r still not familiar with nitro i suggest u choose the 1st method usually recommended by the manufacturer...good luck
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:45 AM   #542
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this will be the 6th engine I have broke in, so I am not new to nitro, but I have never heard of the WOT method.
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Old 03-30-2005, 06:59 AM   #543
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Originally posted by Clegg
this will be the 6th engine I have broke in, so I am not new to nitro, but I have never heard of the WOT method.
i have been racing for 6 years and i always break in all my engines (15 total) with the WOT method with great sucess. You want to break in your motor at operating temperature,if you let it iddle the engine is not generating enough heat and you are doing more harm than good.
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Old 03-30-2005, 07:10 AM   #544
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Originally posted by Clegg
this will be the 6th engine I have broke in, so I am not new to nitro, but I have never heard of the WOT method.
this is from Josh Cyrul's website
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Engine Break-In 101
In the area of engine break-in, there are several different procedures that have been used over the years. Different manufactures, top drivers, and hobby store experts all vary in their opinion as to which is best. Over the past 10+ years of nitro racing I have found this procedure to give me good results in both areas of on-track performance as well as reliability.

Install the new engine into your chassis complete with clutch and ready to go as if you were going to race. Take a screwdriver, glow igniter, starter box, and a full bottle of fuel to a remote area where you won't annoy anyone with a running engine. Start your engine and allow it to warm up with several short ½ throttle “blips”. Once your engine has some temperature in it you can begin the break-in process. Start by opening the top end needle 1 full turn. Open the carburetor to full throttle and hold it there. Open the top end needle until the engine flames out. From here, close the top end needle ¼ turn and restart the engine again running it at full throttle. Run the engine full throttle for 3 tanks and shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes. Once the engine has cooled down, run through the same process again for two additional tanks. On the third tank close the top end needle by ¼ of a turn. Instead of holding the engine at full throttle, start using the throttle by doing 2-3 second bursts of full throttle. Once you have done this for ½ of the tank close the top end needle another ¼ of a turn and continue throttling the engine. Continue closing the top end needle ¼ turn per every ½ tank of fuel. Do this until you have run a grand total of 8 tanks through your engine and then shut the engine down.

Allow the engine to cool for 15-30 minutes and then you are ready to hit the race track. Drive two tanks rich around the track slowly closing the top end needle sneaking up on that perfect mixture. At the end of the second tank your engine should be tuned to race speed. This will give you a total of 10 tanks of fuel through your engine before you really start to lean the mixture for ultimate power.

The reasoning behind this break-in procedure is that there is always a large volume of fuel flowing through the engine. Large volume of fuel means plenty of oil and lubrication for the break in process. This also helps flush out any burrs or small pieces of material that may have been left over from the manufacturing of the engine. Also, the engine has a load placed on it by trying to cycle all of the fuel through it – somewhat similar to the load that you will put on it out on the track when you try to power your car around the track. Last, the engine is broke in with rpm – if you break the engine in at idle then you will not be seating the piston, sleeve, and connecting rod at anywhere near the rpm that it will have to be ready for out on the race track.

This is the procedure that I have used with good success over the years of nitro racing. When I've hurried the break-in process I have had some engines last 30 minutes to 4 hours of racing. When I've taken my time and run through this process I've run engines as long as 16 hours of racing!! Yep, same piston and sleeve!!!! Be patient and have fun!!

Good Luck!!
Josh Cyrul
CEFX

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
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Old 03-30-2005, 03:16 PM   #545
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Quote:
Originally posted by Marcos.J
this is from Josh Cyrul's website

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
What fuel is perfect for break ins? I currently have O'donnel RTR 20%. Is this good enough?
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Old 03-30-2005, 03:18 PM   #546
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What fuel is perfect for break ins? I currently have O'donnel RTR 20%. Is this good enough?
i use maxys 30%,the os tr comes shimmed for 30% fuel
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Old 03-31-2005, 03:05 AM   #547
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Originally posted by revzalot
What fuel is perfect for break ins? I currently have O'donnel RTR 20%. Is this good enough?
i've used 25%...looks ok to me

Quote:
[i] i use maxys 30%,the os tr comes shimmed for 30% fuel[/B]
i didn't know the os comes shimmed 4 30%....good info
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:48 AM   #548
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Default os tr shimming for 16%

hello

so if the tr comes shimmed for 30% nitro, would it be wise to make changes to the shims if your running 16% ?

thanks heaps
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Old 03-31-2005, 07:03 AM   #549
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Default Re: os tr shimming for 16%

Quote:
Originally posted by mrgsr
hello

so if the tr comes shimmed for 30% nitro, would it be wise to make changes to the shims if your running 16% ?

thanks heaps
you should take shims away when using lower nitro content
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Old 03-31-2005, 04:11 PM   #550
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my tr has just 1 thick shim
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Old 04-02-2005, 02:35 PM   #551
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Originally posted by mrgsr
my tr has just 1 thick shim
Hey mate nice run yesterday
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Old 04-02-2005, 02:38 PM   #552
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Default OS 12TR carby setting

Hey guys im rebuilding my carby today was wondering if you guys got a rough setting on the following:-

Mid needle
Low needle

The stock set up dont tend to work, i dont need a exact just a rough idea. Engine is 1 month old and people help them selves play with the needle adjustments and now its all f*cked, many thanks.
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Old 04-03-2005, 07:00 AM   #553
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are you sure you know what your doing ?
hehe

this is the 3 needle carb that your using
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Old 04-03-2005, 10:59 AM   #554
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Quote:
Originally posted by mrgsr
are you sure you know what your doing ?
hehe

this is the 3 needle carb that your using
thanks man

i think i do know what im doing since im in this for 8 years now, just want a starting point.

wheather its a 2 or 3 they both have a pre-set point where the engine will run its best.

For the ignorant ppl out there its a 11a if anyone else will be smart dont bother answering...
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Old 04-03-2005, 11:30 AM   #555
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Default R-Spec break-in

I ran-in and tuned a 12TR R-Spec yesterday in a new FT NTC3.

Used O'donnell 20% and temp's were around 60.

I found the OS recommendation for 2 turns out was just too rich, so I started break-in at aroung 1-1/2. Also raised the idle a little to prevent loading up off-throttle.

What a treat this engine is. It ran flawlessly during break-in, with only a couple of flame-outs during the first 5 tanks. I started leaning it and the engine really came alive. I did lose a P6 plug as I started to lean it out. In the end, the HSN needle ended up at about 1-1/8 turns out.

After finishing the HS tuning, I re-set the idle and the thing just runs great. I can sit idle for 30 seconds, pull the trigger and it takes-off like throwing a light switch.

I can't believe this was a $150.00 engine. I don't get why OS discontinued it so long before the TzR becomes available.
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