Ok guys, question answered. I talked to the man himself. For those of you that may not know, it is ok at this point going to step 4 to set your idle gap and lsn close to tune so you do not get that pinging after a full throttle pass. Top end still rich for another 750cc and gradually lean it tank by tank. Thanks Uriah! Not even one of his engines and he's was still willing to help. A real stand up guy in my book.

Why does novarossi say to replace the aluminum rings around the hsn when moving the fuel inlet? I downloaded the factory carburetor settings and it says to replace the aluminum gaskets if you move the fuel inlet. Any reason why? they are not damaged just by loosening the needle housing i dont think.

Sometimes you'll struggle to get it to seal.
If they're sealing, don't replace.

Those type of seals are sometimes a one shot deal. Once they've been loosen if you don't get them back into the same position they tend to leak no matter how much you tighten them.


Pass you soon...

Thanks.

The keep on is breaking in beautifully, around 1000cc's now, still running on the rich side of the tune. The needles are in the ballpark of tune still taking it easy with some wot passes and backing off before it screams. This is the smoothest running engine I've ever owned. It runs so sweet and mellow all the way through the rpm with no issues. Only encountered 1 problem so far, something got wedged between the flywheel and front bearing and dented the shield in enough to cause a bad leak. It was pouring fuel and temping in the 250-260 range. Good thing I wasn't hard on it or there may have been serious issues. I replaced the bearing and now it tunes very consistent with the needle settings. Temps back to around 210-220 and idles all day like a dream. Byrons race 3000 gen 2 11% with 1.5 oz of Byrons lube booster. I am now a firm believer in castor oil and after run oil. It leaves a nice coating all over the internals and protects very well. I believe that is what saved my engine during the bearing leak and sucking extra air. Glad I caught it as soon as I did.

Just bolted a 353 RACE 09 in and finished 2nd at the Fall Sprint Car Nationals at Bumps and Jumps RC. Broke in very nicely and then held it's tune beautifully through the heats and main. Very peppy and smooth little engine for the price.

I had another brand of engine in the car over the summer because it was the freshest thing I had at the time, but I spent more time tuning it than racing. Very happy to be running a Nova again!

double post

How does a n21r7 fair to a kangaroo/kappo? It's going in a GT car

And is a kappo rally the same as a kappo? Are rally motors good for gt racing? Thanks.

Can someone experts here recommend a different plug to use on my Novarossi .21/s Keepon Pre Run-in?

O'donnel or OS plugs? Nova plugs are still dying on me and are way too costly.

Dbl post sorry

Merlinglowplugs

If you can get your hands on them, Sirio plugs are awesome. IDM is the same plug btw.

Thanks Roelof, kind of hard to get them from where i'm at though

Hey Stefan, thanks for the suggestions. IDM plugs i can get, they're the same with the Siro ones? the threading are the same as novas?
Have you tried the O'donnell plugs on Novarossi before? I did and experience some lost in power, not sure if its just me or....

a little help here the p/s/r set for keep-on 21 jp r09 and mig21 r09 is #08569 what would be the difference in the cases i know the keep-on has a different bearing

I would say the biggest difference on the Keep-On case is the internal slot for the tool to remove the rear bearing easily. Maybe some minor inner porting