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Reïnstall all the bearings, I had it with a R&B engine where the frontbearing was not seated well.
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Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 4747717)
Reïnstall all the bearings, I had it with a R&B engine where the frontbearing was not seated well.
This is a brandnew engine:eek: |
Originally Posted by Riketsu
(Post 4707701)
Can someone tell me how many shims do I need for a Novarossi 353 and a 12-3SCT if I use 20% fuel???
Pass you soon... |
Originally Posted by lil-bump
(Post 4748549)
Not sure about the 353. but I measured my 3SCT tuned and with no shims; it has a real head clearance of a .30mm so for 20% i would add .15mm shim. the engine comes with a .30mm shim. I install this for 25% which gives me a total head clearance of .60mm. A little fat for 25% but better to be safe.
Adding .40mm of shims would get around .70mm head clearance this is a little too much for 20% your low end will suffer. Pass you soon... |
Originally Posted by Riketsu
(Post 4748563)
Would you think between the Tuned and the Non-Tuned version the head clearance would change?
I can only speak for the 3sct tuned version. But my gut says they would be the same. I don't think they would change the stroke between these two engines. Maybe timing not stroke. Again I'm really not sure. Pass you soon... |
Originally Posted by PROVK
(Post 4748476)
Roelof
This is a brandnew engine:eek: There is no 100% flawless production... |
Originally Posted by Roelof
(Post 4749624)
Thats what I thought too but it happens more than you think!
There is no 100% flawless production... I will let you know what I find when I get home soon |
If that doesnt work I will shave a bit off the collet
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shimming...
Originally Posted by GBagRacing
(Post 4747712)
The difference is most likely in the flywheel collet. Some are thicker than others. A thick collet against a flywheel that needs a thin one would move the whole assembly 1-or 2 mm futher down the shaft, thus eating up the play that you would normally have.
unless i need to get a special collet, i used the collet that came with the engine...:cry::cry::cry: :spidey::p:spidey::p:spidey: |
Usually the black steel ones that come with most Nova motors work perfect.
Another option is to find a NTC3 clutch bolt and shim kit. It comes with a few tiny little shims that fit over the bolt between the end of the crank and the holder/retainer whatever that thing is called (the piece the thrust bearing rides on). That can give you the few tenths of a mm you need. |
Hi, I was wondering if anyone could give me the factory settings, including mid speed needle, for the MR12 with turbo head? Any help would be appreciated!
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The mid needle should be flush with the carb body. Don't recall the others.
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Originally Posted by Bad Mika
(Post 4750363)
yup, thought of that... but if i remember correctly, i did try 2 collets and used the best of the 2 but still need to shim it out a bit more... :flaming:
unless i need to get a special collet, i used the collet that came with the engine...:cry::cry::cry: :spidey::p:spidey::p:spidey: I had the same issue. I shaved .5mm of the the collet by sanding it on emery cloth making sure it was taken off like it was machined off. It did the job, I just get .3mm endplay, with .4mm fly wheel to crank case clearance. I have a GRP .21 and only have .4mm of clearance with standard GRP collet. Not sure why I was the only one with the problem because I can install clutches blindfolded. |
Why is there like 2 holes on the sides of the crankcases of Nova .21 engines.
When attaching the header do you wrap one large spring all the way around and 2 smaller ones on either side because I only got one large spring with my header. Im new to Nova .21 engines as I have always run Ninjas and GRPs Thanks |
Yep I three spring them. One long one and two short ones.
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