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Old 03-22-2009, 05:29 PM   #1
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Default lower c-rod play

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Old 03-22-2009, 08:25 PM   #2
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This is a joke right? You just wrote that to get a reaction!
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Old 03-23-2009, 01:18 AM   #3
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Is the crankpin old then it is the crankpin causing the play.

You can give the crankpin a DLC coating to fill it up a tiny bit but a small amount of play must be there to run oil through.
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Old 03-23-2009, 05:20 PM   #4
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.......................

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Old 03-23-2009, 08:11 PM   #5
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I think you are assuming the rod in the engine now is still good but has worn away some of the bronze. Most often thats not the case at all. It is much more likely that the rodend and bushing have been stretched out of shape and will eventually fail. The aluminum and bronze are both relatively soft metals, they stretch a little before cracking and complete failure. Change the rod before there is a hole in the block. It was the brass foil sheets that made me laugh.
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Old 03-24-2009, 12:01 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helivaguy View Post
what is the acceptable play for the lower connecting hole?
i have a few novarossi engines that have play on the lower rod hole around the crankpin,i just refuse to buy new rods and looking for an alternative.
was thinking about using brass,copper or aluminum brass foil sheets to shim up the play or even using bronze tubing inserts to press inside the rod opening (with a oil hole)or to be pressed on the crankpin.
just trying save money and get a little more milage
any thoughts or suggestions?
Hope this helps

AFM


When to change the connecting rod by R.Poage

The connecting rod is one of the most stressed parts in any engine, and therefore needs to be checked frequently to avoid expensive engine damage due to failure. Some factories suggests that connecting rods be subjected to a measured operating life, and replaced maximum after 5 liters of fuel under normal operating circumstances. Some factories suggest visual inspection to determine rod life.
We feel that a combination of the two methods is best to ensure catching a rod before it goes bad. It is also very important to check the condition of the connecting rod periodically during this operating life to ensure that premature wear has not developed.

We recommend that this check be performed before each race day, and the easiest way is to remove the rear cover from the engine (raise the piston up into a compressed position first! before removing the rear cover) then gently rotate the crankshaft in both directions to determine the amount of play in the connecting rod. If the amount of play seems excessive (you can detect movement / play with your eye), we suggest carefully disassembling the engine and measuring the crankshaft pin and connecting rod for excessively wear, a maximum differential of 0.04 and 0.05 mm in diameters is acceptable.

The fact that the crankshaft pin must be absolutely round (as must be the hole in the connecting rod) is one of the most overlooked aspects of engine wear, and can result in damage even with a brand new rod. The proper way to measure this is to measure with a micrometer on one axes (in line with the direction the rod would travel) and then again on the axes perpendicular to the first. The difference of these two measurements should be < 0.002 if any. The connecting rod should also be visually inspected for signs of wear in the bushing areas, and the oiling holes cleared of any debris.

Obtain the correct factory replacement conrod and "new wrist pin clips". Install the new rod exactly like the old one was before you removed it. Note the oil hole in the conrod should be towards the crank.

We also suggest that you inspect and consider replacing the rod if the engine has seen any trauma such as a failure of the two-speed one-way (over revving the engine) or a significant over heating of the engine.

As a general rule engines that are run hard should have a rod replacement at least every 1.5 gallons of fuel regardless of visual inspection. It is very hard to standardize how hard drivers run their engines, or what kind of gearing or temperatures these engines see, but is impossible to rebuild and engine with a hole in it, so error on the conservative side is in order.
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Old 03-24-2009, 05:02 PM   #7
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thanks a bunch!
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