New Kyosho CRF
08-20-2007, 02:39 PM
#61
v2007
I ran Orion 2007 version. Mine is already dead, but couple of my friends still run those 
. If the track you're runnin' in isn't crampy - this motor is really awesome. Otherwise it's a bit tricky to drive with late engaging clutch in VERY tight turns.
Maybe it's a good thing to reset it to factory settings when you get it out of the box - mine was off.
. If the track you're runnin' in isn't crampy - this motor is really awesome. Otherwise it's a bit tricky to drive with late engaging clutch in VERY tight turns.Maybe it's a good thing to reset it to factory settings when you get it out of the box - mine was off.
08-20-2007, 11:37 PM
#62
Lokanas, how many liters has your engine run? weird to hear that it's dead?
About the clutch, CRF test track is as "crampy" as it gets. The 2007 has more low end so it should not be a problem on any track.
Nano
About the clutch, CRF test track is as "crampy" as it gets. The 2007 has more low end so it should not be a problem on any track.
Nano
08-21-2007, 08:40 AM
#64
Anyway, the engine helped me to win couple races so i never blamed it
Probably i just overlooked something in settings and that was a killing factor.The very "worst temp" it ever get was 147C (i know it's already a bit too much). Usually it ran ~107-120C (and boy i had to richen it to keep the temp down).
PM me for details if you want.
No matter what happened to mine - i really liked the engine. Nice piece of machinery and revvy powerband
08-21-2007, 10:01 AM
#65
Tech Adept
Hi Nano,
Could you give any input on this one?
http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.p...5&d=1187032164
Is piston to far out of cylinder and i have to put a new set in, or should i just try to work with carb settings to get idl more stable?
As at the moment, after it gets hot, it just flames out of throttle all the time.
At the same time, idl is perfect, when temp is low, as soon motor gets ~5min of track time, flame out happens.
Could you give any input on this one?
http://rctech.net/forum/attachment.p...5&d=1187032164
Is piston to far out of cylinder and i have to put a new set in, or should i just try to work with carb settings to get idl more stable?
As at the moment, after it gets hot, it just flames out of throttle all the time.
At the same time, idl is perfect, when temp is low, as soon motor gets ~5min of track time, flame out happens.
08-22-2007, 01:50 PM
#66
I can get this engine for $264 + shipping. Anybody know where I can get it cheaper. 
BTW.. I do want the Kyosho version.
BTW.. I do want the Kyosho version.
08-24-2007, 04:23 PM
#67
Tech Adept
yesterday, i have run in my new kyosho engine.
factory setup whas total bad, engine did not run.
i must srew out hsn and lsn.
after break in, engine are powerfull but after running 5 tanks
engine flame out
i change clutch setup, but he same problem.
after flame out, engine restart ok, good idle. temp not over 100°C
can anyone help me??
dieter
PS:i drive a mugen mtx4 wc, kyosho crf engine with kyosho pipe
factory setup whas total bad, engine did not run.
i must srew out hsn and lsn.
after break in, engine are powerfull but after running 5 tanks
engine flame out
i change clutch setup, but he same problem.
after flame out, engine restart ok, good idle. temp not over 100°C
can anyone help me??
dieter
PS:i drive a mugen mtx4 wc, kyosho crf engine with kyosho pipe
08-25-2007, 02:44 AM
#68
yesterday, i have run in my new kyosho engine.
factory setup whas total bad, engine did not run.
i must srew out hsn and lsn.
after break in, engine are powerfull but after running 5 tanks
engine flame out
i change clutch setup, but he same problem.
after flame out, engine restart ok, good idle. temp not over 100°C
can anyone help me??
dieter
PS:i drive a mugen mtx4 wc, kyosho crf engine with kyosho pipe
factory setup whas total bad, engine did not run.
i must srew out hsn and lsn.
after break in, engine are powerfull but after running 5 tanks
engine flame out
i change clutch setup, but he same problem.
after flame out, engine restart ok, good idle. temp not over 100°C
can anyone help me??
dieter
PS:i drive a mugen mtx4 wc, kyosho crf engine with kyosho pipe
you need to tune it man. go very rich, then see what it does, then go very lean so you know how the engine acts at both extremes.
09-01-2007, 01:48 AM
#70
anyone found that the screw that holds the carby pinch bolt doesn't hold the carby tight enough?
i thightened down my carburetor after it came loose, and had another look at it today, and i was able to move it with my hand
why did CRF/Kyosho use such a thin screw, with a small head on it? (1.5mm head with the screw diameter being 2mm i think)
i sealed up the carby with gasket sealant as well as sealing up the pinch bolt but if you use alot of brakes i can see the thing coming loose eventually again
i thightened down my carburetor after it came loose, and had another look at it today, and i was able to move it with my hand
why did CRF/Kyosho use such a thin screw, with a small head on it? (1.5mm head with the screw diameter being 2mm i think)
i sealed up the carby with gasket sealant as well as sealing up the pinch bolt but if you use alot of brakes i can see the thing coming loose eventually again
09-01-2007, 01:53 AM
#71
anyone found that the screw that holds the carby pinch bolt doesn't hold the carby tight enough?
i thightened down my carburetor after it came loose, and had another look at it today, and i was able to move it with my hand
why did CRF/Kyosho use such a thin screw, with a small head on it? (1.5mm head with the screw diameter being 2mm i think)
i sealed up the carby with gasket sealant as well as sealing up the pinch bolt but if you use alot of brakes i can see the thing coming loose eventually again
i thightened down my carburetor after it came loose, and had another look at it today, and i was able to move it with my hand
why did CRF/Kyosho use such a thin screw, with a small head on it? (1.5mm head with the screw diameter being 2mm i think)
i sealed up the carby with gasket sealant as well as sealing up the pinch bolt but if you use alot of brakes i can see the thing coming loose eventually again
09-01-2007, 02:25 AM
#72
anyone found that the screw that holds the carby pinch bolt doesn't hold the carby tight enough?
i thightened down my carburetor after it came loose, and had another look at it today, and i was able to move it with my hand
why did CRF/Kyosho use such a thin screw, with a small head on it? (1.5mm head with the screw diameter being 2mm i think)
i sealed up the carby with gasket sealant as well as sealing up the pinch bolt but if you use alot of brakes i can see the thing coming loose eventually again
i thightened down my carburetor after it came loose, and had another look at it today, and i was able to move it with my hand
why did CRF/Kyosho use such a thin screw, with a small head on it? (1.5mm head with the screw diameter being 2mm i think)
i sealed up the carby with gasket sealant as well as sealing up the pinch bolt but if you use alot of brakes i can see the thing coming loose eventually again
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...31#post3328931
The retaining doesn't work like it does on other engines. Once the glue cracks, trying to tighten the retaining screw so that the carb won't rotate will just strip the screw. I've done this twice already. First time because I thought the screw worked like other screws. Second time because I didn't know about the glue thing.
I haven't gotten around to fixing it again because I've been running the STI. Nano didn't say what specific glue to use, so I'm hoping JB Weld (slow cure) will do the trick. I'll probably get around to it next weekend.
BTW.. You have to cut off the insulator to get it off.
09-01-2007, 05:41 AM
#73
This has happened to a few people, including myself. Here is why:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...31#post3328931
The retaining doesn't work like it does on other engines. Once the glue cracks, trying to tighten the retaining screw so that the carb won't rotate will just strip the screw. I've done this twice already. First time because I thought the screw worked like other screws. Second time because I didn't know about the glue thing.
I haven't gotten around to fixing it again because I've been running the STI. Nano didn't say what specific glue to use, so I'm hoping JB Weld (slow cure) will do the trick. I'll probably get around to it next weekend.
BTW.. You have to cut off the insulator to get it off.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...31#post3328931
The retaining doesn't work like it does on other engines. Once the glue cracks, trying to tighten the retaining screw so that the carb won't rotate will just strip the screw. I've done this twice already. First time because I thought the screw worked like other screws. Second time because I didn't know about the glue thing.
I haven't gotten around to fixing it again because I've been running the STI. Nano didn't say what specific glue to use, so I'm hoping JB Weld (slow cure) will do the trick. I'll probably get around to it next weekend.
BTW.. You have to cut off the insulator to get it off.
09-11-2007, 04:55 AM
#75
yeah, i guess having the name kyosho on it, maybe they did the design on purpose to piss mugen guys off
Last edited by TomB; 09-11-2007 at 05:18 AM.