The engine runs the same as the Evo 3. It is fast.

We have been using the Sirio 2013 pipe, and the IDM 2033. The Novarossi 2015 also works well with the engine. The needles should be set OK for break in.

Here is how we break in our engines.


There are different ways to break in your new nitro engine. Here are the ways that we have found work the best to give you a long lasting, fast engine.

For in car break in:
1.) Warm the engine with a heat gun until it is (around 170F).
2.) Start the engine. Then establish a rich idle ( around 7,000 r.p.m.)and let the engine run for 150cc of fuel, then let the engine cool to ambient temperature. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 160-190 degrees F.
3.)Next, with a fully engaged clutch, run the car at a very rich setting for about 750cc of fuel. Make sure the car is very slow at full throttle, and lots of smoke at this stage. If the car wants to go fast at this stage richen the main needle until the car makes lots of smoke, but does not move fast. Maximum R.P.M should be about 15,000 at this point. Let the engine cool again. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 150-170 degrees F.
4.)Over the next 750cc of fuel you can gradually lean the high speed needle. A good method to keep in mind is to go one hour leaner per tank of fuel to be safe. The engine will need to be run at a race setting in order to become fully broken in. Each engine will break in at a different time, and with a different amount of fuel due to differences in manufacturing materials, tolerances, etc…
You can know that the engine has fully broken in when you are running the engine at 90-95% of it’s potential, and you can run at this pace without the engine going rich. An engine that is not fully broken in will continue to richen itself on the racetrack.
An engine that is properly and fully broken in will reward you with cooler temperatures, more power, and long engine life.


For Break in using a propeller: Always keep the cooling head covered so the airflow does now cool the engine too much. You can use aluminum foil for this.
1.) Warm the engine with a heat gun until it is (around 170F).
2.) Start the engine. Then establish a rich idle ( around 7,000 r.p.m.)and let the engine run for 150cc of fuel, then let the engine cool to ambient temperature. Running temperatures during this stage will be between 160-190 degrees F.
3.) Run the engine at ¼ throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. ( Temperatures should be around 170-190 F)
4.) Run the engine at ½ throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. (Temperatures should be around 180-200 F)
5.) Run the engine at ¾ throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. (Temperatures should be around 180-200 F)
6.) Run the engine at full throttle for 450cc of fuel then let cool. (Temperatures should be around 180-200 F)
7.) After this process has been completed on the break in bench, it is time to install the engine in the car, and follow the steps listed above from # 4 until break in is complete.

In reference to the WOT break-in I have used it with the same success as the idle method. I think the most important thing is to have the engine rich and getting some temperature into the engine in the beginning. If you let the engine sit and idle too long it can damage the engine just as you can damage the engine from running them too cold.

Sure I will modify that engine. I have not dyno tested that engine, but I can make them a lot faster.

What up Uriah. See you tomorrow.

Please if any one can help. I have been reading the postings on this thread and 3 people have asked about this engine the novarossi basic ns12ts1. If you have any information on this engine please post a reply. Need help please. I have been trying to find out if any one has used this engine and what they thought. Can any one tell if it would be good for club races or even worth the time.

The engine is not as fast as the 353, +12, LS3. The ns12ts1 would be good for the beginner who needs a smooth engine for a good price.

Could someone give the base needle settings for a MM 35+21 please?!
Also, proper HC/shims for 30% fuel?

Thanks!!

Try the top needle flush, somewhere around 3 to 3.5 turns out. The bottom needle 5.5- 6 turns out. For 30 % fuel you should have .80-.90mm total shims underhead, depending on the conditions where you are. Use a Novarossi # 7 plug.

Thanks Uriah. And thanks for the awesome work as well!!!!

Hi Uriah, the 35 + LC Cordoba edition is modified by you?

FYI - Uriah is at the state race this weekend down in FL preparing for the Winternats so he may or may not be able to respond.

Mark

I think it's modified by Mauro Collari (Lamberto Collari's father).

Thank you, and thank you too munrath.

Uriah I hope things went well for you this weekend at the warm up race. Hopefully got some good engine feedback for the winternats

Uriah,

I've bought the modified 12-3ct from you last year and is very happy with the motor.

It is time for a new one. Which one would you recommend?