Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Here: http://kamikazercracing.com/proddeta...od=T6PICCOPLUG

morati

Never mind.....Kamikaze has 'em in stock.

jeff1

I bought my OFNA/Picco P6TC from Sam of Kamikaze hobbies

morati

Order completed! That was the most "Pain-Free" transaction I have ever had in five years since I started this Hobby. From now on, I will check first with Kamikaze to see if they stock what I need before going anywhere else......

Team Kamikaze

iTrader: (3)

Thanks John!

RayJ

The rich bottom end will cure the lean bogging that most here have experienced, and most racers running these series of picco's will all have to run the botttom end very rich. When I first hit the track, it takes the motor almost three or four laps before it really clears out and gets some temp in the engine. Until it does this it's pretty sluggish, and kinda grumpy. Most other engine clear out after a lap or two............and that's where most have made the mistake of wanting to lean out the bottome end. Me included .........in the beginning.

Another tuning tip.........for this motor...........and others is clutch. I used Mike Swaugers clutch tuning tips to set up my clutch.........and simply put it's the best clutch I've ever run! One of the key points that I see all the time at the track is a poorly set-up clutch, and the racers believing it's a bad motor. Many racers do not shim the endbell from the clutch shoe far enough. That is very important. The clutchbell needs to spin freely without making contact with the clutch shoe. If your car is idling and you can push on the clutchbell and feel it touch the clutch shoe...........and the engine drops in rpm...........it's not shimmed properly. In my Mugen, I use a one half of a thrust bearing between the end of the clucth nut and the first clutch bell bearing. The spacing is perfect for this clutch. On other clutches you'll have to experiment to get the right shimming to space the clutchbell form the show.

Spring tension. I was talking with Josh Cyrul the other day and got one of the new Orion square wire springs used on the CRF. I love this spring. It's very very progressive in it's adjustments. On my mugen with the JLR my clutch gap for the spring is 1.65 mm(the distance between the end of the threads of the flyweel nut and spring nut) That's a pretty tight clutch. I gain over 5,000 rpm up the engine scale of acceleration with others who's setting is to soft. What that means.........is my engine will be further up the power band before engaging.........and will acclerate all the way through the powerband faster. Others think it's just my motor.........but it's not. Most of the guys reading this here already know this........but I thought I'd throw it in for some of newbies.

stefan

Hey RayJ,

I've been hearing a lot about this article by Swauger. Unfortunately, we can't get the mag over here.

Would it be possible to scan it and send it to me via e-mail?

I can send you my e-mail addy via PM.

Watcha think?

Thanks!

RayJ

Stefan...........I believe there's a link afew pages back on this thread or MTX-4 thread. RMDhawaii posted a link to the article. He will know where to find it.

jelayne

iTrader: (4)

Stefan you can try

http://xrcmag.idigitaledition.com/issue.php?issue=4

TomB

iTrader: (10)

artificial 1 those wear marks show that the piston has not been manufactured with the correct sizings. the high spot is in the centre of the piston (ie that wear ring) as well as a high spot on one side of the piston the backplate scratches are normal.

but that piston looks ugly

i think there was one of these engines at my track last clubby. a fellow racer called Tommy Lee raced one at MoorebankRaceway. it was a pritty good motor admitedly mine was quicker, but at the same time my engine was highly worked though.

not dissing picco, another racer at my track who races 8ths has a solaroli tuned picco... that thing is a bullet!

Ffejdat

iTrader: (5)

Hey all, ran my JLR all weekend at the Delta classic race in Nebraska, it ran 10 minute qualifiers, and a 45 minute main, plus many tanks of practice, without a sinlge hiccup or problem! I had a lot of people ask me over the weekend what kind of motor I was running, many were surprised to see it was a stock motor, with the Skyline pipe. I qualified and finished 2nd, got beat by corner speed and driving, not by motor. This motor definitely likes to be rich on the bottom end, as ray and others have mentioned. Fuel mileage is also not an issue, I could probably make 6 minutes if I leaned it out some more... Overall, I really like this motor!!

Osiris 75

iTrader: (18)

I agree, I had Wasp owners asking me the same question!!!

nitrodude

iTrader: (8)

I just run a full day of practice with one of these after a short break in, and I must say that its a really nice motor. I have to agree with RAYJ, the motor runed best when the LSN was very rich, it would settle down to a nice idle, and the temps were in check, even though my tranny wasnt shifting.

Dreddlox

iTrader: (7)

I was very happy with the performance of the engine so far. I'm still tuning but it showed me alot yesterday. TQ was 22 laps I was on pace to do 21 till my shock cap came off. As rich as it was I still had about an 1/8th of a tank left and still a long way to go on the tuning process. This motor is the truth.

NitroNubee

iTrader: (1)

Thanks very much for that link!

Also, I just wanted to subscribe to this thread as I am anxiously awaiting the arrival of my JLR! Any new news, Sam?