Ninja Engine by GRP
#1398
I can change that bearing for you Craig. If you can get it to me before the next race, i'll have it for you that sunday. I just changed both in my OS and it was really easy. Helps that I have a toaster oven at work that I can use to do it.
#1399
gimme a shout today some time. i should be around town by 5-6.
so you are gonna cook my motor huh. thanks for letting me know, so when i get my motor back and it smells like pizza, i wont be alarmed.
so you are gonna cook my motor huh. thanks for letting me know, so when i get my motor back and it smells like pizza, i wont be alarmed.

#1400
Does anyone know if the front bearing seat on the .21 crankcase is supposed to have a plugged oil hole? Most engines I've seen, this hole goes clear thru to the carb insertion area. Does anyone recall seeing a steel plug during a front bearing swap. It kind of looks like a broken drill, yet the outside end is fairly clean. Will try to get a pic up, yet it's a very tiny area.
Last edited by DogboneS; 04-18-2008 at 07:06 PM. Reason: will get a picture
#1403
The passage is clear from the first groove to the carb throat, no problem there. I always thought this was an oil passage to the front bearing, and that was why the front bearings usually only have one shield. Yet if the inner shield came loose it wouldn't be a good thing. I have an RB bearing I picked up because it has 2 rubber shields. Anyways, I'm installing ceramics in the new engine and now I'm wondering if I should pop on an inner shield as well.
#1410
Mine is stock. Actually my second one. I ran one last season and didn't change the rod. During one practice run, it finally gave way. On the one hand, I could be mad because I had a new P/S to put in, but never got the rod in time. On the other hand, it lasted a whole season with no problems.
Last year I ran a CD3 (Ofna's version of the FW-05). While I'm sure the engine didn't reach it's full potential because I couldn't get a ninja pipe on it and I had too many tranny problems (the motor had so much torque the transmission would always shift too early, no matter how I clamped the screws down); it was plenty fast. This year I'm running the Mugen and got the FLS pipe.
I've done the same thing on both: used the Josh Cyrul break in method and then let it eat. Even with barely 12 tanks thru, the motor is still silly fast. It's not a mod, and not quite a +12, but it can and will run with the best of them.
Last year I ran a CD3 (Ofna's version of the FW-05). While I'm sure the engine didn't reach it's full potential because I couldn't get a ninja pipe on it and I had too many tranny problems (the motor had so much torque the transmission would always shift too early, no matter how I clamped the screws down); it was plenty fast. This year I'm running the Mugen and got the FLS pipe.
I've done the same thing on both: used the Josh Cyrul break in method and then let it eat. Even with barely 12 tanks thru, the motor is still silly fast. It's not a mod, and not quite a +12, but it can and will run with the best of them.



