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Gentleman, just make sure you assemble the rod facing the correct way and use a bearing puller if you have access to one.
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thank u sir
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I can change that bearing for you Craig. If you can get it to me before the next race, i'll have it for you that sunday. I just changed both in my OS and it was really easy. Helps that I have a toaster oven at work that I can use to do it.
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gimme a shout today some time. i should be around town by 5-6.
so you are gonna cook my motor huh. thanks for letting me know, so when i get my motor back and it smells like pizza, i wont be alarmed. :):ha: |
Does anyone know if the front bearing seat on the .21 crankcase is supposed to have a plugged oil hole? Most engines I've seen, this hole goes clear thru to the carb insertion area. Does anyone recall seeing a steel plug during a front bearing swap. It kind of looks like a broken drill, yet the outside end is fairly clean. Will try to get a pic up, yet it's a very tiny area.
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2 Attachment(s)
Here's a picture of the front bearing seat.
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Yes, the front hole in the case is plugged like most other engines. I believe that hole is drilled through to the other side and plugged on the front section.
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Originally Posted by ezveedub
(Post 4375198)
Yes, the front hole in the case is plugged like most other engines. I believe that hole is drilled through to the other side and plugged on the front section.
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Lately, I've been leaving both seals on the bearing, unless its originally a one side sealed bearing like the Novarossi front bearings.
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Sound like a good idea, from now on I'm gonna use 2 shields at the front. Yet I'm unsure of the grease used in the ceramics, looks like clear light synthetic.
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anyone have a used .12 ninja crankshaft you might wanna sell. I have paypal ready
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anyone have a used .12 ninja crankshaft you might wanna sell. I have paypal ready
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new bearings, ready to roll :)
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how many stock ninjas still running, and what have u done to them
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Mine is stock. Actually my second one. I ran one last season and didn't change the rod. During one practice run, it finally gave way. On the one hand, I could be mad because I had a new P/S to put in, but never got the rod in time. On the other hand, it lasted a whole season with no problems.
Last year I ran a CD3 (Ofna's version of the FW-05). While I'm sure the engine didn't reach it's full potential because I couldn't get a ninja pipe on it and I had too many tranny problems (the motor had so much torque the transmission would always shift too early, no matter how I clamped the screws down); it was plenty fast. This year I'm running the Mugen and got the FLS pipe. I've done the same thing on both: used the Josh Cyrul break in method and then let it eat. Even with barely 12 tanks thru, the motor is still silly fast. It's not a mod, and not quite a +12, but it can and will run with the best of them. |
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