hey guys, am proud to say that just days ago i bought my first pro end motor and went with the mr.12 t01, to bolt in my mtx4-r :sneaky: :D :tire:

engine looks great and i cant wait to fire it up. But im not sure as to how to run it in, any one got suggestions? and also does conrod need to be changed after break in?

cheers ;)

if you look back a few pages costly, mike swauger posted how he runs his ninjas in this might help you ;)

The "Engine FAQ" section of the .12 Engine KB has a summary of Mike S' break-in notes for the MR12-T01

this is the page http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&page=14&pp=40was more then a few back.... or just check nitrokb :D

I went to the Ninja Engine Web site and found absolutely zero info on the tuned versions. Anybody know where I can find some details? And could someone clue me in on the significance of magnesium?

Also, on the MR12-T01A, the Ninja Web site reads:

Is this a good thing or a bad thing when going up against IFMAR/ROAR legal engines?

i don't own a bench
 

i don't own a bench break in setup. what is the proceedure, for breaking in the motor in the car? just use the cd?

Last year it wasn't, but this year EFRA changed there rules regarding engine specifications, they are now the same as IFMAR....

thanks for all your help guys

cheers remo ;) ;) ;) ;)

Ninja MR 12 T01A conrod
 

Hello,
I would like to share my finding on the conrod of the engine and have your feedback. When I opened the engine just after the break in to clean it, I noticed a play between the conrod and the piston pin. I assumed that I shouldn't change it since it had only about 1 liter of fuel.
Then during the first race, the engine performed very well. Thanks to my mechanic the engine was working to 105C and it could stay on idle for more than 5 minutes and after that to respond perfectly to full throtle without flaming out.
The performance was equal to all other mod engines in the track or I did not feel the need for more power.
After the race when I opened it again I noticed the same play in the conrod and the pin.
There is no bushing there. I slightly heated it up with the heat gun and when it reached approx 70C the play started dissapearing.
What is your experiences/opinions on that.

Since the engine performed perfectly on the track and the temperature was about 105C, I would like also your opinion for the following:
I used 1 teeth smaller both pinion gears and 1 teeth larger both spurs from the default. I suppose that this is the shortest available gearing for the MTX4. While the other team mateswith the MTX4s using other engines, i.e. JP FX03M used the default pinions and only 1 teeth larger both spurs.
My centax spring was also much tighter than the rest. I was about 1.6 and the other about 1.0. However, the whole package worked perfectly and no signs of wear in the shoe or anywhere else. Any comment?
Thanks in advance

Good morning gentlemen (ladies if you frequent here as well).

I have just found this thread this morning related to my recently purchased Ninja MR21B01A engine. I am also the owner of a X1-CRT truggy and would like to know if there is a seperate thread related to this new engine or if someone would be so kind as to link me to it. I have read the ninja-engine site but I wanted something a little less *clouded* by marketing hype. Any/all help is greatly appreciated.

since the new mario rossi tuned came out is the old version still gonna be available? the new mario rossi tuned really expense though.. $649 for the RO1..

The R01A is still available and will continue to be.

We have them cheaper than that at www.rcthunderhobbies.net 347.202.7247 call and ask 4 Dean or Danny.

We have .12's and 21's in stock.

I just spoke with Daniel at the shop and he says he can have his distributor get him the .28s as needed. EXCELLENT news indeed. :) I look forward to meeting you at the Tri-State tomorrow Dean as I'm the site administrator for the track we're racing at. ;)