Yes, it was :) If this engine has the power that my Mega MF12 the MAX Power .12 has, I will get another without question. I know they say to use the Ninja plug, but mine was DOA in the motor...have to call Mugen on that) but I took the caliper and guages out and measured the plug. The are very and do mean very close to the rossi plug. Sorry Mugen, but I didn't have a plug and when I orderd the engine, no plugs available, so in when the Rossi plug.

did you start out with factory needle settings as it came out of the box, or richen it up during the first tanks. I know it says to richen it up for the WOT run.

I am using NovaRossi #6, it is ok.

actualy, I had to lean it out to get it to fire for the first tank, but that could have been the plug. After I got it up and running, I richend it up. For the full throttle part, it was blowing so much fuel out of the pipe, it looked like it was raining :lol: It didn't take very long to run through that tank, less than 4 min.

did you check temps at all during the runs, or just go through the process?

I'm curious as to what the temps are. It's not good on the rod to break these things in cold.

I've used a "self modified" Cyrul method for the last few years with real good luck for me. The first time I tried Josh's method my engine would not go over 120F- way too cold IMHO. You're just beating the rod to death if the piston and sleeve never expand- even with all the fuel for lubrication. I now use a head milled down to 3 fins to break in my engines and put a heat gun on it. I probably don't run them quite as rich as in Cyrul's method either. I maintain at least 180F, but try to hit 200F (it's really hard to hit 200F).

I have a break in bench on the way for my new Ninja's and will try Mike's method.

I'm just curious if you checked temps at all?

When there's more hands on feedback I guess it'll be easier to see. Oh, yeah I do think you'd have to be really competitive to get multiple engines. Reason being for someone like me who isn't going to be out there every weekend, is that the current engine should work fine for a while if taken care of. I don't think it's a bad idea, but it's not imperative at this time for me. Plus, I'd wait for the tuned version and maybe even a modded version.

as for temps on the bench..............cold.....with the prop running, 185, but for the most part, even when the enigne was a full throttle, I took a temp at 135, so after the first few times, I just stopped taking temps.

Today: Got the Ninja some track time :nod: . Temps are starting to come down now that the engine is starting to loosen up. Got about 1/2 gallon ran through it today, temps around 230 and 260 when tank is at lean empty. Mtx4 is now complete with all upgrades. We got a temp today at 310, but that is strange, blowing smoke and the plug is shiny.....I think that the head is so open that you get so close to the plug that the temp thing is going to have to be tossed out the window on this engine, or I will just have to come up with a larger silicon head for the exergen.

Pulled the engine down to inspect, looks like new inside, nothing discolored, carbon build up, nothing....looks like I just took it out of the box. Running 30% now with the extra head shim.

I feel that this engine is going to like to REV.....It pulls hard from the bottom and comes on strong, but it seems to lack a little in the mid right now, coming out of the corner. Will try some lighter clutch weights next week.... With a few more RPMS, this will be better.

Fuel economy......5min on a track that your almost always on full throttle.....NOT A PROBLEM :nod:

My overall opinion: Excellent engine, but don't think you will take this engine and be able to get everything out of it right from the get go....Its gets better with more run time.......... :D :D :D :D

From what I understand the temps will read a bit higher on the engine because of the head design. So 310, smoke and wet plug sounds right.

I'm wondering how you will break in the motor in the car. I've used Cyrul's method on my Nova, but would it be a good idea on the Ninja? Here's what was on the CD



Running in must be done carefully with the engine installed on the model, in the following way:


Fill up the tank with fuel.
Remove the plug temporarily to check that, when connected to the battery, the filament heats up and becomes incandescent (Orange/yellow). Put the plug back into place.
Switch on the transmitter and receiver and set the accelerator slightly open from the minimum position.
Start the starter motor on the starter box so the fuel flows from the tank to the carburettor. If the engine stops, do not force the starter box, but release the engine, using a screwdriver on the flywheel.
When you see through the transparent silicone pipe that the fuel is reaching the carburettor, connect the battery to the plug to heat the filament and start the engine. PLEASE NOTE: it is of extreme importance not to leave the engine in acceleration for a long time when not in contact with the ground (model resting on the starting box) because it would quickly overheat, causing serious damage.
When you switch on the engine, leave it to run a few minutes with oily carburation, with the battery connected to the plug and with the wheels turning freely at a distance from the ground. Under these conditions, the oily carburation perfectly lubricates all the engine's internal parts. To know whether the carburation is sufficiently oily, abundant smoke should be issued by the exhaust pipe. Repeat the operation until all the fuel in the tank has been used up.
Disconnect the plug battery and try to run the car on the track. If the carburation is too oily, slowly increase acceleration to keep the engine running as long as possible. If it stops because carburation is too oily, turn the maximum pin clockwise by 30° and try again.
If the engine continues to run even when carburation is very oily, continue to use the model until having consumed at least 3 tanks of fuel. Then close the maximum pin by a further 30° and consume another 2 tanks of fuel. Repeat the procedure until you have consumed at least 6 tanks of fuel. However the exhaust pipe must continue to issue abundant smoke.
To switch off the engine, close the carburettor completely using the lever that controls acceleration on the remote control, then manually close suction on the carburettor air filter, or press the fuel pipe. Never try to switch off the engine by slowing down the flywheel with your fingers or metal tools.

rocca30......sounds like we need to lean it out!!!!!!!

Dredd - Just remember a tuned or hand modded motor isn't always the way. Like you I test the current motor and go for something stronger only if I'm litteraly blasting around the track with the motor as fast as it will go on 30%.

a pic of the piston. after 1/2 gallon ran through it. The photo is a little deceptive, The photo makes it look pitted, but its not...it is shiny.

Lookin good. I have to get my hands on one of these motors...most likely the Ninja/exhaust combo. Hell I may even sell my truggy RTR as well! LOL. :lol:

HELP!!! im looking for a idle screw for a bo1 engine and no one has it :cry: I need it in my hand by thursday or my son is screwed for a big race this weekend If anyone can help let me know , Much thanks Paul

Call Mugen tomorrow. They'll hook you up.

You could always just slap another carb on it for the time being. Someone at the race will have a spare carb.

@Stefan @Mike

first, both engines are good and powerful out of the box. often is just a question of the price and the opinion which you like more.

then, you can´t compare german and us prices. normaly the prices in germany are a little bit higher than the rest of the world. :(

Here the German prices:

MR12 engine only: 255 Euro = 355$
MR12 engine motorbox: 329 Euro = 433$

Plus 12-3 only: 289 Euro = 380$
Plus 12-3 with EFRA 2630 and short manifold: 366 Euro = 482$

At the moment, Ninja is unbeatable for the prices and that are the normal shop prices. :rolleyes: