BoardSlapper

iTrader: (1)

Long story short, my brother in law has given me most of an 8ight T 2.0 RTR to join him in some truggy racing. I raced on-road years ago, but just getting back into it now with this truggy.

Anyway, I need an engine for this thing, so I've grabbed the engine out of my original Savage SS. So of course I had to order some clutch bells, no problem, go that handled. And of course I would surely smoke the original two composite shoe clutch if I tried to use it for racing. So since it doesn't cost all that much, I ordered one of the REDS Racing Quattro clutch's. Very nicely made unit.

Anyway, so I slap it on, and what I find is that it is too thick, long, whatever you want to call it, for the crank. Instead of the crank sticking out of the outer bearing a little, it is actually inside the bearing a little. So no way to shim it for proper clearance.

I checked, and it is not a clutch bell issue. If I put the stock HPI clutch back on, and stick the bell over it, everything is fine. I think the Savage clutch is the same as pretty much every other clutch out there, just has two shoe's versus 3 or 4. The big difference is the added material of the adjustment plate of REDS Quattro.

So I was looking it over and here's what I think. For a moment, I thought perhaps I could grind off a bit of the backside of the clutch nut. This would let it drop in a little more and let the clutch bell come over the shoe's a bit more, and then the crank will stick out of the bearing. But thinking that over a bit more, I think the inside of the clutch bell will just hit the clutch if I did that.

So I think my only option is to put a small piece of metal, basically the same size as the end of the crank, over the clutch bell retaining screw. In essence, extending the crank. Then I'll have the room to shim it up properly.

Has anyone else used one of these clutches yet? How did it work out for you?

bash bros

iTrader: (2)

You need something like the ofna shim kit #10410 it has those black beveled washers which essentially just extend the driveshaft when the clutch takes up too much room. Also make sure you used the collet that came with the clutch if there was one. Sometimes the collet can make a difference how far back/forward the flywheel sits.

The kit is discontinued but maybe you can find one on ebay yet.

BoardSlapper

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that would probably do it. Good call. I'll probably just make up something myself though. I did use the collet that came with the clutch, and after the issues I compared them and they are the same.

Clearly this is an issue for more people than me, as these things are still made by various vendors. What I'd like to find out is this a common issue with the REDS Racing Quattro? I would guess that it is actually a common problem, and if so perhaps they could include a crank extender in their kit. The little one in this Answer Racing kit picture bellow would work out perfectly.

Arctic RC

I use the exact same clutch on a Agama A215 with a reds engine and have no issues at all.
Use the flywheel collet that comes with the clutch and grind it down a bit and then it should fit. Grind the collet on the side facing the engine otherwise the clutch will not fit.

BoardSlapper

iTrader: (1)

I might be able to take the collet down a hair, but not much or the clutch will hit the engine. I'll do some measurements. That is one of the options I had thought about also. I'll post any updates I have.

Thanks for letting me know that it isn't everyone having this trouble.

Gavel

iTrader: (6)

i used the reds clutch for probably a year with no issues, what bell are you using? different brands have different dimensions so that might be part of your issue. Also that clutch shim extender thingy that was posted, Losi include the same thing in their nitro kits (just built 2 of them) so see if you can get it from them. Other then that, check to make sure your crank length is normal, maybe savage have some something silly to try and make it so you have to use their clutch with their engines

HomicidalBunny

iTrader: (4)

You can press a 4mm lock washer inside the outer bearing to give yourself a "longer" crank. The other added benefit is that the screw holding the bell on never comes loose.
Just put the lock washer on the screw, and tighten it down as you normally would.

Horatio

Hi, you're not alone, this exact same issue has happened with me when installing an Xray 3 shoe clutch, 32mm flywheel onto a Novarossi 28 - 8 for my XT8.

Different engine and clutch, same problem! Trying to get the flywheel to sit closer to the engine without torqing the living hell out of the nut, whilst maintaining some clearance for the clutch bell bearings and cap screw = not possible, even after some grinding. The end of the crank just wasn't quite through enough to be able to tighten the screw without binding the clutch.

This is the first time I've ever encountered this problem - all previous engine/flywheel combos I've ever used in the past have all required shims to make up the surplus space!

So, like you, I'm going to look for a crank shaft extender washer type spacer thinga-me-bob. Hopefully Answer still have the one you showed!

twigstoy

https://www.amainhobbies.com/kyosho-...yoifw35/p37364

Galatians2 20

iTrader: (16)

Horatio

Thanks guys! The Ofna shim kit has been discontinued, Answer RC in the UK are out of stock of their shim kit with Crank extender. Which left the Pro Tech RC shim kit at $7,99!!

Thanks to your responses, we now have a value option.

Cheers!

Horatio

Here's the problem. The flywheel fully tightened down, even after a little strategic grinding, so very nearly allows the end of the Crank to peak through. Had I known, I wouldn't have bothered with the grinding.


Note that 90% of the extender needed shimming, so most of the gap was taken up with 2 brass spacers, backed with a steel washer. I also used 1 x 0.1mm shim. Perfect!


Here's the protek part for shims and crankshaft extender. Note that the brass spacers are not included. I just had them floating about in my spares.

Roelof

In the past when using these kind of clutches and the bearing did not fully shifted over the shaft I used a screw with a counter sink head to give the bearing some play.

Horatio

Not sure if a countersunk screw would have had a clearance fit with the gap I had.

Worth a shot though I guess, if you're out of shims and top hats! Lol. Glad I've got them in my spares now.