JS Racing Engines
05-16-2011, 12:24 PM
#32
05-16-2011, 01:05 PM
#34
I DONT KNOW, THERES BEEN A COUPLE DIFFERENT GUYS TRYING TO CONTACT HIM, I DO BELIEVE HES STILL MAKING FUEL
05-16-2011, 04:38 PM
#36
Thanks for the love tony, and thanks for talking me into getting a JS. I've ran a lot of different engines over the years and this thing is truly awesome. I've never been able to pit a 10min in buggy until now, I've never had an engine last 5 1/2 gallons and still have so much compression, and I'm a power whore and these things more than satisfy my needs, no matter what the track. And For 170 bucks!!! ARE U KIDDING ME!!...
I've run Nova's, OS, Orion, RB, Picco, Ninja, Werks, and Grp's for more than 10 years. They all are awesome in my eyes and I'm in no way bashing any of them, but my JS has just as much power or more, better runtimes, and it has outlasted everything I've tried over the years so far. I have yet to buy any brand that has had NO issues like bad casting on the block, faulty wrist pins, metal flakes inside the block, Bad o-rings and more. They are all man made and they all have issues from time to time. Whatever engine you buy you should open it up and make sure everything is ok inside before building a fire in her anyway.
I hope Ed can get back in the mix, but until then I've gotta race, and I've finally found my engine! Anyways, I don't know how I got off on this tangent.... thanks again Tony..
Reggie
I've run Nova's, OS, Orion, RB, Picco, Ninja, Werks, and Grp's for more than 10 years. They all are awesome in my eyes and I'm in no way bashing any of them, but my JS has just as much power or more, better runtimes, and it has outlasted everything I've tried over the years so far. I have yet to buy any brand that has had NO issues like bad casting on the block, faulty wrist pins, metal flakes inside the block, Bad o-rings and more. They are all man made and they all have issues from time to time. Whatever engine you buy you should open it up and make sure everything is ok inside before building a fire in her anyway.
I hope Ed can get back in the mix, but until then I've gotta race, and I've finally found my engine! Anyways, I don't know how I got off on this tangent.... thanks again Tony..
Reggie
05-16-2011, 07:09 PM
#37
i know Edd has been very busy with moving his shop to his garage basicly and getting everything up spec with the ozone guys and everything. also has been talking to some manufactures and local machine shops on future plans. if i talk to him i will mention that you are trying to get ahold of him.
05-17-2011, 08:51 AM
#39
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
what am i doing right ?
Gday again from OZ ----
------ ran my second event with me new JS 21 this week end ----
Its fully broken in now and is "pulling like a bull in spring". i stuck with the OS 2060 muffler & header , had the recwards 2041 with me ,but the mill was going so well i couldn't force myself to change it . Ran a P4 plug again ,and thought ide mention that they're not wearing out -?.i used heaps of them in my last JS , i mean , after the initial run in two weeks ago at Rockhampton ,and 4 qualifying rounds , i inspected the plug with a Loupe magnifier , and it looked brand new ? , so i got a second opinion from Billy Ross ,Agama JS ,race team director and agent ,to see if i should change plug for the final ,he had been using p3 s , he said put it back in and run it ,i did , and no problem , ran the same plug at practice SAT , 3 Quals Sun ,and only changed the glo plug for the final , but ive just looked at the old one and it still looks good ,grey, but no damage ?ime loving this . Could it be because ime now using a "comp heat head warmer" ,the eng hasn't been started (nor turned over on the bump-box)under 150 f . You can just turn it over by hand ,at race temp @250f ,but its not easy,it is smooth though ,there's no roughness,just tons of compression .
wierd,but good hey ?
cheers jonando racing.-----
ps oh yea,almost forgot,the exhaust note of this mil ,with the OS pipe is awesome .wwooooooooowwwwhhh --- i can hear it clearly over all the other engines ,and the kids love it ,sounds like a supper-charger .
------ ran my second event with me new JS 21 this week end ----
Its fully broken in now and is "pulling like a bull in spring". i stuck with the OS 2060 muffler & header , had the recwards 2041 with me ,but the mill was going so well i couldn't force myself to change it . Ran a P4 plug again ,and thought ide mention that they're not wearing out -?.i used heaps of them in my last JS , i mean , after the initial run in two weeks ago at Rockhampton ,and 4 qualifying rounds , i inspected the plug with a Loupe magnifier , and it looked brand new ? , so i got a second opinion from Billy Ross ,Agama JS ,race team director and agent ,to see if i should change plug for the final ,he had been using p3 s , he said put it back in and run it ,i did , and no problem , ran the same plug at practice SAT , 3 Quals Sun ,and only changed the glo plug for the final , but ive just looked at the old one and it still looks good ,grey, but no damage ?ime loving this . Could it be because ime now using a "comp heat head warmer" ,the eng hasn't been started (nor turned over on the bump-box)under 150 f . You can just turn it over by hand ,at race temp @250f ,but its not easy,it is smooth though ,there's no roughness,just tons of compression .
wierd,but good hey ?cheers jonando racing.-----
ps oh yea,almost forgot,the exhaust note of this mil ,with the OS pipe is awesome .wwooooooooowwwwhhh --- i can hear it clearly over all the other engines ,and the kids love it ,sounds like a supper-charger .
Ive since tried the recwards 2041 pipe and got a much snappier response ,the engine ran about 25f cooler straight away,exhaust header temp also down ,and seemed to return to a stable idle much quicker , with a much smoother lineal response .Compression ,when still hot (@110f) is still excellent , and i seem to be getting very long run times , have a small amount of dirt clinging around the front bearing ,but doesnt seem to be getting worse ,and a few spots at the carbi neck,whereas a lot of others with the JS around here are having lots of tuning / carbi probs and are using OS & navo carbs to correct . Ime still running the same P4 ,still looks as new .? Have i landed a freak - motor ? or has my new approach made that much difference ?
Happy Camper .
PS the recwards 2041 pipe is a perfect fit when swapping with the OS2060(efra 2042),it slides straight on the mounting rod , it took me @ 2 min to change over .
Last edited by noddy2; 05-17-2011 at 09:27 AM. Reason: add ps and correct spelling
05-17-2011, 11:17 AM
#40
sorry to be a pest , but ide really appreciate some feed-back on this .
Ive since tried the recwards 2041 pipe and got a much snappier response ,the engine ran about 25f cooler straight away,exhaust header temp also down ,and seemed to return to a stable idle much quicker , with a much smoother lineal response .Compression ,when still hot (@110f) is still excellent , and i seem to be getting very long run times , have a small amount of dirt clinging around the front bearing ,but doesnt seem to be getting worse ,and a few spots at the carbi neck,whereas a lot of others with the JS around here are having lots of tuning / carbi probs and are using OS & navo carbs to correct . Ime still running the same P4 ,still looks as new .? Have i landed a freak - motor ? or has my new approach made that much difference ?
Happy Camper .
PS the recwards 2041 pipe is a perfect fit when swapping with the OS2060(efra 2042),it slides straight on the mounting rod , it took me @ 2 min to change over .
Ive since tried the recwards 2041 pipe and got a much snappier response ,the engine ran about 25f cooler straight away,exhaust header temp also down ,and seemed to return to a stable idle much quicker , with a much smoother lineal response .Compression ,when still hot (@110f) is still excellent , and i seem to be getting very long run times , have a small amount of dirt clinging around the front bearing ,but doesnt seem to be getting worse ,and a few spots at the carbi neck,whereas a lot of others with the JS around here are having lots of tuning / carbi probs and are using OS & navo carbs to correct . Ime still running the same P4 ,still looks as new .? Have i landed a freak - motor ? or has my new approach made that much difference ?
Happy Camper .
PS the recwards 2041 pipe is a perfect fit when swapping with the OS2060(efra 2042),it slides straight on the mounting rod , it took me @ 2 min to change over .
Hello Noddy
It sounds like you have a good grip on the engine, Im not sure what feedback your after.
If your front bearing is seeping alittle fuel, and you also mentioned you engine returns to an idle quicker with different pipes, it sounds like your LSN is alittle rich still. It should return to a lw stable idle virtually immediately with a leaner idle and narrow idle gap. Rich LSN and lean HSN will create what we call "run on"... A high idle for a few seconds after a full speed run. This is a very common tune on all engines, I personally dont lke any run on, so I presume my idle is much leaner than yours.
My first JS front engine bearin started to seep alittle more fuel than I would like between 5-6 gallons, that engine has AVID ceramic bearings now and is dry as a bone.
As far as the carb leaking an people swapping them out for anothr brand, I have yet to have any reason to pull mine out and replace. The needles are firm to turn and it is very responsive. Not sure what problems they might have encountered, its usually because the carb thats going into the engine has already been tuned to theyre liking.
05-18-2011, 12:27 AM
#41
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Avid ceramic bearings
Thanks Tony , ile get the AVID bearings and fit if necessary .
--Ime fairly shore most of the the ones having trouble are running P3 plugs,and running a high idle gap?cant get there engines to idle . I encountered a similar problem with my first JS , but i know it got too hot during break-in .When i striped the mill after it finally died (around 30 litres)i found i had crank end float,and the bearing loose on the crank,i probably didnt load the flywheel collet properly.on me new one,i used a bit of non-hardening aviation gasket cement ,on the shaft between the flywheel-collet and the bearing just in case ,Oh , and when i switched to P4 & P5 plug following advice in the EB mods JS 21 thread ,i got a lot of flack from local racers running P3s . where just above the 23rd parallel , tropic of capricorn ,we get high humidity and fairly high temps ,avg 30c/@85f,so maybe thats it .anyway i kept my old one going by playing with the fuel pressure .and P4&5s Its the dry season now,a lot less humidity..The last 2 race meats ,the more experienced guys have had trouble getting a tune ,and flaming out ,they arent saying much to me though,my motor ripps,and will happly idle for ages ,with the head warmer on ,and still havent DNF .Ive had another look ,and it aint leaking at the bearing no more . I guess it only weeped during run in ,when rich .
--Ime fairly shore most of the the ones having trouble are running P3 plugs,and running a high idle gap?cant get there engines to idle . I encountered a similar problem with my first JS , but i know it got too hot during break-in .When i striped the mill after it finally died (around 30 litres)i found i had crank end float,and the bearing loose on the crank,i probably didnt load the flywheel collet properly.on me new one,i used a bit of non-hardening aviation gasket cement ,on the shaft between the flywheel-collet and the bearing just in case ,Oh , and when i switched to P4 & P5 plug following advice in the EB mods JS 21 thread ,i got a lot of flack from local racers running P3s . where just above the 23rd parallel , tropic of capricorn ,we get high humidity and fairly high temps ,avg 30c/@85f,so maybe thats it .anyway i kept my old one going by playing with the fuel pressure .and P4&5s Its the dry season now,a lot less humidity..The last 2 race meats ,the more experienced guys have had trouble getting a tune ,and flaming out ,they arent saying much to me though,my motor ripps,and will happly idle for ages ,with the head warmer on ,and still havent DNF .Ive had another look ,and it aint leaking at the bearing no more . I guess it only weeped during run in ,when rich .
05-18-2011, 07:50 AM
#42
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Bearings
Hello Noddy
It sounds like you have a good grip on the engine, Im not sure what feedback your after.
If your front bearing is seeping alittle fuel, and you also mentioned you engine returns to an idle quicker with different pipes, it sounds like your LSN is alittle rich still. It should return to a lw stable idle virtually immediately with a leaner idle and narrow idle gap. Rich LSN and lean HSN will create what we call "run on"... A high idle for a few seconds after a full speed run. This is a very common tune on all engines, I personally dont lke any run on, so I presume my idle is much leaner than yours.
My first JS front engine bearin started to seep alittle more fuel than I would like between 5-6 gallons, that engine has AVID ceramic bearings now and is dry as a bone.
As far as the carb leaking an people swapping them out for anothr brand, I have yet to have any reason to pull mine out and replace. The needles are firm to turn and it is very responsive. Not sure what problems they might have encountered, its usually because the carb thats going into the engine has already been tuned to theyre liking.
It sounds like you have a good grip on the engine, Im not sure what feedback your after.
If your front bearing is seeping alittle fuel, and you also mentioned you engine returns to an idle quicker with different pipes, it sounds like your LSN is alittle rich still. It should return to a lw stable idle virtually immediately with a leaner idle and narrow idle gap. Rich LSN and lean HSN will create what we call "run on"... A high idle for a few seconds after a full speed run. This is a very common tune on all engines, I personally dont lke any run on, so I presume my idle is much leaner than yours.
My first JS front engine bearin started to seep alittle more fuel than I would like between 5-6 gallons, that engine has AVID ceramic bearings now and is dry as a bone.
As far as the carb leaking an people swapping them out for anothr brand, I have yet to have any reason to pull mine out and replace. The needles are firm to turn and it is very responsive. Not sure what problems they might have encountered, its usually because the carb thats going into the engine has already been tuned to theyre liking.
Also ,ime running the standard Agama clutch with the 13x5x4 bearings ,and are on my 3rd set in 1/2 gall,same shoes ,when i checked before the Main s ( 2 of ) the inner bearings collapsed ,cages destroyed ,ime running a VP bell at the moment ,11x5x4 ,because i ran out of bearings for the Agama.---
should i try the Avid $1 clutch brgs ,or go for the dearer TKO - blue black seal ,revolution? ones ?---ime also looking to up-grade to a 4 shoe clutch,with heavier fly-wheel ,like the Werks/Ascendancy 34 mm ones?they appear to be the same ,Ascendancy have 7075 alloy shoes listed ,Werks aluminum,the ascendancy have a steel heavy type (1/2 oz/14gms more weight)would appreciate anyones insights in this area.
thank you in advance ,
jonando racing --
05-18-2011, 08:02 AM
#43
Thanks for the tip Tony .Are these the Avid bearings for the JS21-----Avid SKU 607-src---?--7x19x6 front .
Also ,ime running the standard Agama clutch with the 13x5x4 bearings ,and are on my 3rd set in 1/2 gall,same shoes ,when i checked before the Main s ( 2 of ) the inner bearings collapsed ,cages destroyed ,ime running a VP bell at the moment ,11x5x4 ,because i ran out of bearings for the Agama.---
should i try the Avid $1 clutch brgs ,or go for the dearer TKO - blue black seal ,revolution? ones ?---ime also looking to up-grade to a 4 shoe clutch,with heavier fly-wheel ,like the Werks/Ascendancy 34 mm ones?they appear to be the same ,Ascendancy have 7075 alloy shoes listed ,Werks aluminum,the ascendancy have a steel heavy type (1/2 oz/14gms more weight)would appreciate anyones insights in this area.
thank you in advance ,
jonando racing --
Also ,ime running the standard Agama clutch with the 13x5x4 bearings ,and are on my 3rd set in 1/2 gall,same shoes ,when i checked before the Main s ( 2 of ) the inner bearings collapsed ,cages destroyed ,ime running a VP bell at the moment ,11x5x4 ,because i ran out of bearings for the Agama.---
should i try the Avid $1 clutch brgs ,or go for the dearer TKO - blue black seal ,revolution? ones ?---ime also looking to up-grade to a 4 shoe clutch,with heavier fly-wheel ,like the Werks/Ascendancy 34 mm ones?they appear to be the same ,Ascendancy have 7075 alloy shoes listed ,Werks aluminum,the ascendancy have a steel heavy type (1/2 oz/14gms more weight)would appreciate anyones insights in this area.
thank you in advance ,
jonando racing --
05-18-2011, 10:12 AM
#45
Simply put, if the engine is in good operating condition (compression, no air leaks etc) and the idle continually surges.... the idle gap is too big and LSN is too rich. I would never put anything between the flywheel and bearing, fix the leak dont put a bandaid on it
I personally have only ran Avids for the last 5+ years... revolutions for the car and ceramics for the engine. My last clutch bearings in my D8 were changes at 4 gallons not bad for $2 worth of bearings
I personally have only ran Avids for the last 5+ years... revolutions for the car and ceramics for the engine. My last clutch bearings in my D8 were changes at 4 gallons
not bad for $2 worth of bearings