JS Racing Engines
05-08-2011, 05:05 AM
#17
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
n0 more full-mods
check the " EB mods " JS eng thread ,its still there , mine's the last post at the moment . not a lot of activity lately , should still be able to get ED's Mod,services for JS ,and many other engines ime sure .---------------------------
As mention'd by EB in a previous post , these engines aren't without fault . The manufacturer doesn't claim them to be ready to run,but advises ,to open out the engine . I translate that to mean ,inspect clear-out (clean ) , they also supply head shimming guidelines for nitro-content , as well as eng temperature guidelines , run in , and basic maintenance guidelines .WARRANTY -------all decisions subject to examination and approval by --JS Racing Malaysia : and are not the responsibility of the LHS or dealer where you have purchased you're engine or the JS RACING distributor in youre country . however , claims must be forwarded to the LHS or dealer where you have purchased youre engine , and they will forward them to JS RACING.
------------with any engine ,HI-end or low buck ",its good practice to open and inspect a new engine "., every, manufacturer / modifier /assembler , is human ,and therefore fallible . . --- white,yellow,black,or brindle,---west,east,or europe ,"S"Happens ,.-------- The Warranty covers only workmanship and manufacturing defects of the original and unmodified engine parts . ---------------
So , lets start listing the common faults we find with this little engine ,and the fixes,etc ,as EB has mentiond , pourus castings , - bad alignment , faulty cranc ,carb pinch bolt ,wrong shimming ,and bent (sticking carb slide ),piston pin clips, etc are just some of the common faults that can occur , ,ALL covered under warranty ,
lastly ,---- My original JS21 purchase (in Australia),was based on 2 things.1 affordability . 2 out right performance .and local knowledge ,theres a lot of JS racers in Aus , being new to rc racing ," its hard to say what will happen to an engine in the hands of a novice ",and no proper evaluation regarding eng life can be made accurately .throwing $money at youre hobbie wont help you ,spend $800 on an engine,and overlook 1 thing ,and pop ,buy buy $800.
so there's no substitute for knowledge and experience. At the track, - every ones bussy ,the conditions change,and other changes to set-up etc compound to produce unique conditions applicable to youre car and no other:--------
-------These,and other entry price ,Hi-performance engines ,can provide a platform to help build our basic skills .----------
Theres a list of page and post#nos,on the EBmods JSeng thread,on @page 120.which deals with various tune-up issues,exhausts,and other handy hints, and one,#1795 --p-120 ----#1799--p-121.---------------
ive just broke in my 2nd JS engine,(first one got @35 litres) -- it flys,will post back here when ive got something to add -----"ABOUT JS ENGINES"-----lets keep it technical,ps ---- full description of my new JS break in is on the engine break in bible thread.---------Thanks too all of the contributors of RC-TECH . ----- A Great Pool Of Info ,------cheers Johno..---
05-08-2011, 07:05 AM
#18
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
heat transfer
------in extreme hot conditions,anything which aids heat transfer between the combustion chamber,and the heat sink (cooling head) is worth considering. --- In a previous life, i modified cylinder-heads ,for LPG gass-conversion , and i recall finding that exhaust- valve temperature became an issue,@1400 ` ,inserts were fitted,and if the interference fit ,ie,machining wasn't right,the heat- transfer problems ,would out-way the benefits of a hard insert,resulting in engine failure,so much so ,that it proved better to indection-harden the bare valve seats.even scale on the inside of the cooling jacket,was equivalent to @1inch of cast iron.---------the fasteners play a role in this process also . --dirty,or ill fitting threads,poorly machined threads,cant help. provided these are in good condition,ive allways used hi-quallity anti sieze when assembling ,and have used 'silver quallity ' anti-sieze on my new RC engines head bolts,its non gaulling, i ran the bolts in and out a few times,just enough to spread a thin ,even coating ,(too much,and you risk hydraulic lock).the silver grade is very hi temp,.-I havent performed any test,but i think the snug fit,with the heat conducting property of silver could aid heat-transfer.,--as i assembled the head button,and cooling head,did the final wipe-down with a bit os silv/anti as well... I have noticed it easier to disassemble , and the parts dont seem to corrode .? not shure what goes on there ,noble & ignoble metals,? --also unsure of any catalitic isues with methanol either .? am looking further into it.-----Ive also payd attention to the engine mountings ,they must be a spotless precision fit to work.ive fitted longer,lighter,eng mts.and get great heat transfer,. This i have noticed,.---- the JS engine drops heat fast allready,and ive invested in a 12 volt head heater.i think a lot of wear of my previous JS was from cold running,and cold tuning.when i pull in to pit,if ime quick,ile see temps up to 250 f,2to5 seconds later 190f then 160f.with the heater fitted , i can keep up around 210.makes tuning a brease,usefull if someone is assisting you with tuning,as the engine stays at operating temp,ready too go....----any feed back welcome ...
cheers --- Johno...
05-10-2011, 11:31 AM
#25
------in extreme hot conditions,anything which aids heat transfer between the combustion chamber,and the heat sink (cooling head) is worth considering. --- In a previous life, i modified cylinder-heads ,for LPG gass-conversion , and i recall finding that exhaust- valve temperature became an issue,@1400 ` ,inserts were fitted,and if the interference fit ,ie,machining wasn't right,the heat- transfer problems ,would out-way the benefits of a hard insert,resulting in engine failure,so much so ,that it proved better to indection-harden the bare valve seats.even scale on the inside of the cooling jacket,was equivalent to @1inch of cast iron.---------the fasteners play a role in this process also . --dirty,or ill fitting threads,poorly machined threads,cant help. provided these are in good condition,ive allways used hi-quallity anti sieze when assembling ,and have used 'silver quallity ' anti-sieze on my new RC engines head bolts,its non gaulling, i ran the bolts in and out a few times,just enough to spread a thin ,even coating ,(too much,and you risk hydraulic lock).the silver grade is very hi temp,.-I havent performed any test,but i think the snug fit,with the heat conducting property of silver could aid heat-transfer.,--as i assembled the head button,and cooling head,did the final wipe-down with a bit os silv/anti as well... I have noticed it easier to disassemble , and the parts dont seem to corrode .? not shure what goes on there ,noble & ignoble metals,? --also unsure of any catalitic isues with methanol either .? am looking further into it.-----Ive also payd attention to the engine mountings ,they must be a spotless precision fit to work.ive fitted longer,lighter,eng mts.and get great heat transfer,. This i have noticed,.---- the JS engine drops heat fast allready,and ive invested in a 12 volt head heater.i think a lot of wear of my previous JS was from cold running,and cold tuning.when i pull in to pit,if ime quick,ile see temps up to 250 f,2to5 seconds later 190f then 160f.with the heater fitted , i can keep up around 210.makes tuning a brease,usefull if someone is assisting you with tuning,as the engine stays at operating temp,ready too go....----any feed back welcome ...
cheers --- Johno...
---food for thought. Thats what .---hears some more.
05-12-2011, 08:04 PM
#27
Not too many Reckward pipes in the USA, Ive ran the Dynamite 086 in my buggy for a few gallons and it performs very well. Runtime is 11-12mins depending on the layout with gobs of power everywhere. I have a Dyn 053 Im trying this weekend to see how it runs.
If I had one pipe to pick, so far it would be the Dyn 086
As far as plugs go, in the winter I ran a P3 (~40 degrees) now I run the P4 everywhere since its warmed up considerably.
This is all on Sidewinder Team Strike 30%
I would like to congratulate Racer Dist team driver Reggie Tongue on his recent win at the 1/8 Challenge in Flowood Mississippi with his 5 gallon old JS .21. Reggie consistently got 10-11mins of runtime on a track that has alot of racers running out of fuel in the 7min qualifiers! Niiiiice win Reggie!
If I had one pipe to pick, so far it would be the Dyn 086
As far as plugs go, in the winter I ran a P3 (~40 degrees) now I run the P4 everywhere since its warmed up considerably.
This is all on Sidewinder Team Strike 30%
I would like to congratulate Racer Dist team driver Reggie Tongue on his recent win at the 1/8 Challenge in Flowood Mississippi with his 5 gallon old JS .21. Reggie consistently got 10-11mins of runtime on a track that has alot of racers running out of fuel in the 7min qualifiers! Niiiiice win Reggie!
05-15-2011, 07:38 AM
#28
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Unique Exhaust tone
Gday again from OZ ----
------ ran my second event with me new JS 21 this week end ----
Its fully broken in now and is "pulling like a bull in spring". i stuck with the OS 2060 muffler & header , had the recwards 2041 with me ,but the mill was going so well i couldn't force myself to change it . Ran a P4 plug again ,and thought ide mention that they're not wearing out -?.i used heaps of them in my last JS , i mean , after the initial run in two weeks ago at Rockhampton ,and 4 qualifying rounds , i inspected the plug with a poupe magnifier , and it looked brand new ? , so i got a second opinion from Billy Ross ,Agama JS ,race team director and agent ,to see if i should change plug for the final ,he had been using p3 s , he said put it back in and run it ,i did , and no problem , ran the same plug at practice SAT , 3 Quals Sun ,and only changed the glo plug for the final , but ive just looked at the old one and it still looks good ,grey, but no damage ?ime loving this . Could it be because ime now using a "comp heat head warmer" ,the eng hasn't been started (nor turned over on the bump-box)under 150 f . You can just turn it over by hand ,at race temp @250f ,but its not easy,it is smooth though ,there's no roughness,just tons of compression .wierd,but good hey ?
cheers jonando racing.-----
ps oh yea,almost forgot,the exhaust note of this mil ,with the OS pipe is awesome .wwooooooooowwwwhhh --- i can hear it clearly over all the other engines ,and the kids love it ,sounds like a supper-charger .
------ ran my second event with me new JS 21 this week end ----
Its fully broken in now and is "pulling like a bull in spring". i stuck with the OS 2060 muffler & header , had the recwards 2041 with me ,but the mill was going so well i couldn't force myself to change it . Ran a P4 plug again ,and thought ide mention that they're not wearing out -?.i used heaps of them in my last JS , i mean , after the initial run in two weeks ago at Rockhampton ,and 4 qualifying rounds , i inspected the plug with a poupe magnifier , and it looked brand new ? , so i got a second opinion from Billy Ross ,Agama JS ,race team director and agent ,to see if i should change plug for the final ,he had been using p3 s , he said put it back in and run it ,i did , and no problem , ran the same plug at practice SAT , 3 Quals Sun ,and only changed the glo plug for the final , but ive just looked at the old one and it still looks good ,grey, but no damage ?ime loving this . Could it be because ime now using a "comp heat head warmer" ,the eng hasn't been started (nor turned over on the bump-box)under 150 f . You can just turn it over by hand ,at race temp @250f ,but its not easy,it is smooth though ,there's no roughness,just tons of compression .
wierd,but good hey ?cheers jonando racing.-----
ps oh yea,almost forgot,the exhaust note of this mil ,with the OS pipe is awesome .wwooooooooowwwwhhh --- i can hear it clearly over all the other engines ,and the kids love it ,sounds like a supper-charger .
05-15-2011, 10:27 PM
#29
We're breaking in 3 engines this weekend... so far theyre little honeys, idle solid, rev instant... sleeve timing is alittle different in the new ones, should have alittle more mid-top with smoother bottom end
Would pre-run engines interest anyone? If so I can get setup to do a few at a time and offer them for $40-60 more depending on how much fuel and time it would take to feel comfortable turning it loose in a buggy
Would pre-run engines interest anyone? If so I can get setup to do a few at a time and offer them for $40-60 more depending on how much fuel and time it would take to feel comfortable turning it loose in a buggy
