well the m2c adjustable flywheel/clutch worked great.i filled inside row setscrews as starting point and 4 setscrews on outside row. i took head off my new engine to replace the one with broken loose fins,had no issues.

Sorry I missed you, on Sat Kevin. I'm still affected by the heat, post surgery. I was doing inventory and getting things ready to ship to California anyways.


For those of you that are not near a hobby shop, or your shop is not carrying Go engines or parts- we will be setting up an outlet store online. The goal is to clear overstocked items, but if you are looking for an engine or part and what you cant find is unavailable anywhere otherwise, we will do our best to accomodate you via this resource. As of now, this will probably be an "official" ebay store, and will be the only authorized Go Engine USA ebay outlet. Prices will still follow MAP, and will not undercut the dealer network.

It's cool Trey, didn't know you had surgery. Hope you're doing well.

Just wanted to share some good news for GO Engines. Two poduims at the RC Pro Series race in Amarillo TX. July 29-31, 2011.

3rd Open buggy "A" main, with my newly rebuilt RC8B. +3mm chassis and new towers, arms, outdrives and many upgrade parts. Spend more than 15 hours building and modifying all the nessesary parts. What a different car than before the rebuild!!! Running the GX-7R. Pitting at 9 min.

2nd Open truggy "A" main. There were only three open truggies that showed, so they ran us in the pro class. Finished 7th overall in the pro class. It was a 45 minute main event and my GX-HO ran awesome, no flameouts and was pitting at 10 minutes to be safe.

I think the balls finally dropped on my HO because it would rev so high that I got kinda nervous and had my pit guy fatten it up a little at 20 minutes into the main, but was temping at 225. There were alot of flameouts after leaving the pits on Sunday, so I told my pit guy to hold it up after fueling so I could clean it out before dropping back into pit lane. The rpms it would reach was sick, so that's when I wanted it fattened up.

Temped at 210 after 45 minutes!

Overall, these Go Engines are awesome...best engines I've ever run!

Great Job, Brad!

Hi guy's, I finally got to run my new HO this weekend and have a problem. I finished up running the 15 tanks threw it this week (Losi 8ight) and ran the first heat really rich to where I had no top end at all and had a very good smoke trail all around the track. I was happy and definantley proved slower was faster because I kept passing people waiting for a marshall. lol Now the 2nd heat I turned the HSN in an hour (the thing will idle all day at around 215 deg) and flamed out so put it back to flush, tried again flame out. What's happening everytime is it is stopping at TDC and I have to use a screwdriver to crank it out of the top position. I tried again on 3rd heat with no luck. (didn't try main) I put about 3 tanks full in the parking lot messing with the needles but unless its so rich that I look like a smoke plane at a air show it keeps locking up at TDC. It does it weather at 215 or 278 (hottest I got it) and always at higher RPM. It sounds like a creeking door when I pry it off of TDC, even at 250 deg. It is serial # 15 if it makes a diff. I have somewhere around 20-25 tanks on it only one 1/2 speed race. lol. Does it need more break in? I just don't know how it can be running at 3/4 throttle (can't go wot on losi, smoke a servo) and come to a dead stop at TDC, can't be good for the internals.
I do want to add I added a break in copper shim from my 7p, but I took it out today to race. Actually over the 2 years I been running the 7p I didnt know I still had 2 copper and a alum shim till I went to take one out for the HO. That 7p hauls the mail now without the extra shim. lol

It certainly sounds like the motor is still way tight. If it's creaking like that when you un-jam it, then it is TIGHT.
Leaning the top end when it that's tight will result in weak performance, and may be the reason for your flame outs.

Put the HSN back to flush and lean it on the LSN - which controls the fuel flow from idle up to 90% throttle on these motors. That way you won't be starving the motor by choking the fuel supply off at the HSN.

Sounds like it just needs more tanks. 15 tanks of heat cycle break in with the head foiled and running slightly rich should be plenty, but looks like you got an extra tight motor.
As a rule of thumb, we normally judge if a motor is ready for race tuning by - run a tank through, then stop the motor. Within 30 sec of stopping the motor, if you can turn the motor over in the buggy using the flywheel from underneath with your finger (just turn it over - it will be hard work), then the motor is ready for a reasonable race tune.
If you can't get it to turn over and can still feel metal pinch resistance, then it needs more tanks before leaning it out.

my GXII's finally let loose this weekend i think " holy screaming banshee's!!) mine in buggy and truggy just have over 1 1/2 gallons on them and just started to run EXCELLENT! they even sound better! at first i started to doubt the low end power but when they let go...........THEY LET GO! WOW! they sound super crisp and have awsome responce now! anyone who is having problems with them through the first gallon.......no worries! when its ready to rip it will..............its like they have a mind of their own

Thanks for the help grizz, only thing I could think of is the lack of lubrication by leaning the ls/hsn was just enough to lock it up. It can stall right in front of me and I have to use a screwdriver to break it loose at 250 deg. Thats one tight sleeve. If I go in on either needle from flush it quits at higher rpm. Wish I would have bought a break in stand. I usually don't burn more than 2 gallons a year. Should I put the extra shim back in? Probably be a good idea to change the rod earlier then is what I'm thinking. I'll keep running the nitro through it, I like what I hear so far. I can't wait to hit the 2 gal mark Inferno, might be next year for as busy as I have been.
BTW my chrome top won't spin it at all until it's very well preheated.

it take patients! but well worth it when i comes alive!

I think that might be your problem - the GXII's don't come with an extra shim.
If you have removed the .2mm copper shim that was in the motor, you will have upped the compression considerably, which may explain why it's locking up and why it is blowing plugs (especially seeing as it is still tight).

The motor should have:

1 x alloy .3mm shim
1 x copper .2mm shim

For a total of .5mm shim stack.
With this you can run up to 30%.

I would recommend fitting an "extra" .2mm copper shim for run in. It makes things a lot easier for the first dozen or so tanks while the motor is really tight.
In your case maybe leave it in until it will turn over more easily. Don't leave it in too long though, as performance will suffer noticibly with the reduced compression once the motor starts to free up.

Yes, keep an eye on the rod, and replace it maybe a little earlier then the usual 2 gall mark seeing it has been so tight. Maybe look at a new wrist pin too, just to be on the safe side.

got into my first Amain with a Go. The Nova I had somehow me to work for it, not the other way around!!

Anyways, doing a study and collecting field reports of the new GXII. I'm eager!!

Hey Trey, I need another head for my backup engine. when is the eBay store up?

shoot me an email... should be this week, but I've got a lot on my plate right now.

I added an extra copper shim from my 7p for a total of 2 coppers and 1 alum to break it in. On Sun I took the extra shim out and back to orig shim pack. I'll put it back in and continue break in prosess. Thanks for the help.