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Old 06-25-2009, 10:11 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by stephen_bess View Post
Start *paying* for your engines and then your method may change

HAHAHA! Touche'!


(Although I do pay for my engines.....)


Pm sent....
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Old 06-27-2009, 04:59 PM   #62
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I have a question. Should I continually lean out the engine after doing a few tanks on factory settings? It says don't do 5 tanks on factory settings, but it doesn't say what settings to do it on.
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Old 06-28-2009, 01:42 AM   #63
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I have a question. Should I continually lean out the engine after doing a few tanks on factory settings? It says don't do 5 tanks on factory settings, but it doesn't say what settings to do it on.
They can't precisely tell you what settings to use because it can vary significantly based on the brand/type of fuel and the weather conditions in which you're running. I would guess that the factory settings are usually generous with the amount of fuel that going into the engine. I don't particularly feel that's good for the engine because it cools it too much. I would suggest leaning it right away if the engine is exhibiting signs of running too rich. If the performance is good and the engine temperature is above 150°F, then I would say you're close enough the right mixture setting if you're driving it cautiously. It's a good idea to give the engine about 5 tanks of fuel before you start pushing it harder.
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Old 06-28-2009, 07:36 AM   #64
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i have now run my last 2 motors in this way for my buggy and truggy i will never change from this way form now on .... perform so much better
and stronger i just done another today
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Old 06-30-2009, 03:06 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by pdmustgt View Post
BDC=Bottom dead center meaning piston is down at the bottom of the stroke.
This may be me not seeing the forest for the trees, but how can I tell when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke?
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Old 06-30-2009, 04:10 PM   #66
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Rotate flywheel in either direction till resistance is felt. Now going the opposite direction you should be able to rotate the flywheel from the underside of car approximately 2 times. So from where the resistance is met, approximately one turn of the flywheel in the other direction across the bottom of chassis is BDC.

You can also mark the flywheel but I find it quick and easy to do this.
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Old 07-01-2009, 12:06 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by ldp787 View Post
Rotate flywheel in either direction till resistance is felt. Now going the opposite direction you should be able to rotate the flywheel from the underside of car approximately 2 times. So from where the resistance is met, approximately one turn of the flywheel in the other direction across the bottom of chassis is BDC.

You can also mark the flywheel but I find it quick and easy to do this.
just make sure the flywheel is free

not sitting in the pinch/compression zone
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:15 PM   #68
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I've got a question. I'm new to RC and my Hyper 21 engine which came with my Hyper 7 (which i have had a few dramas with.. but this is not the appropriate place for that discussion) has jsut had a sleeve and piston replacement after an unfortunate incident of the glow plug coil falling into the piston... you can read it at "hyper 21 engine problems" in this forum

Anyway can someone please make sense of the break in instructions provided by ofna ( i can't have urls since apparently i haven't made neough posts so please go to the ofna website and find the hyper 21 engine manual ) From what I read it says idle the engine for 3 cycles, then jsut start driving it around on full tanks while 1/4 throttling (and tuning while making sure not to heat it too hot). This doesn't seem to be too good to me, can i jsut do the break in method mentioned in this topic?

Also i'm a very novice weekend basher... I don't race or anything i'm more interested in logevity of the engine... taking this into consideration, is this heat cycle method still better for the long term compared to the old idle tanks method?

Just a bit confused that's all, just let me know what you people think I should do.

Cheers
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Old 07-29-2009, 10:54 PM   #69
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The break-in procedure described in this thread will work great for your engine and any future piston/sleeve replacements.
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Old 07-30-2009, 05:40 AM   #70
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Cheers for clearing it up air8. Will do this method and see how I go... Thanks mate.
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Old 08-11-2009, 02:44 PM   #71
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I haven't read all the pages, but should you use a heavier spring to bring the rpm's up on the motor?
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Old 08-11-2009, 08:01 PM   #72
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I haven't read all the pages, but should you use a heavier spring to bring the rpm's up on the motor?
For sure!! I use 1.1 ofna springs and hot bodies carbon shoes This allows the engine to gain rpm before shoes engage.Great for tight tech tracks with snap needed to clear the jumps.
Later
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:49 PM   #73
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Should you Brake in a motor on 30% are on 20% and then switch to 30% if that is what you are gone to be running? I seen one more guy ask this ? and no one ever said what is the best way.
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Old 08-28-2009, 06:07 AM   #74
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So basicly put some foil or a wrist band on the head to get temps up quicker and then take it off to cool it down then put it back on every time?
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Old 08-28-2009, 10:45 AM   #75
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Nova, you should break-in your engine using the same fuel that you're going to be running. The fundamental benefit of break-in is to acclimate the engine to conditions similar to how you intend to run the engine. If you break-in the engine with one fuel, then change it after break-in, you're changing the cylinder temperature and pressure, which is against the concept of proper break-in. There are companies that make break-in fuel, but it's not advisable to use it. It's not going to kill the engine to use different fuel for break-in, but in my experience, it's better to stick with the same fuel.

Tate - I didn't catch the part of the discussion to which you're referring, but the purpose of using foil tape or something else to build heat into the engine is typically for running in cool weather conditions. Every cylinder head has a different cooling capacity which suits a particular temperature range. If the ambient temperature range is well below ideal for your particular engine, then the cylinder head will likely provide too much cooling for the engine. Water-cooled engines have a thermostat, which regulates the amount of cooling based on prevailing conditions. Adding tape or a wrist band to the cooling head of a nitro engine is an attempt to do the same. So, once you block a sufficient amount of airflow from the cooling head to get enough temperature into the engine under running conditions, you leave it there until weather conditions get warm enough that it's not needed.
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