5Likes"the engine tuning bible"
08-09-2011, 02:03 PM
#286
This thread really helped me a lot. I have never had nitrogen before, only team associated electric, and I though that I had gotten all the power u could out of my rc8 buggy...... it was I wrong. I had checked out the tuning bible the other night, and just got around to rating my car today, and it screams bow. I did exactly what the bible had said to do. And I am very impressed with the knowledge that I have gained from this site. Thank you very much.
08-10-2011, 05:11 AM
#287
I poseted thison the RB thread, but figured I would try here as well.
Got the K10 pretty close tonight (thanks Rageworks for the factory settings) It screams like a raped ape with the 9901 pipe. Only problem I am getting is that the LSN needle wants to be very lean. Once the motor is brought to idle from a high speed pass the idle comes down to a nice steady rpm and doesn't change for a good 15 to 20 seconds. But if i give it throttle from idle it loads up very bad lot of smoke and won't clear out for aprox 60 to 75 feet. Doesn't matter if its full throttle, 1/2 throttle, or 1/4 throttle. Once it clears out the top end is great with a lite trail of smoke (hard to see as it was getting dark). Coming off a turn or from a short stop, 1 to 2 seconds, the motor cleans out well and runs great. Any stops from 5 to 10 seconds it loads up bad and wont clear out. Temps were ranging from 205 to 214 on the second tank of gas. (back to back tanks to get the chassis saturated with heat)
I am running the following:
RC8B 1.1 springs with carbon shoes. Stock gearing.
Byrons 25% gen 2 with 11% lube
Motor is just past teh one gallon mark
RB 1051-5 (CP-02) Plug (brand new) Checked plug after 2 hard tanks, coil is still shiny and new.
Nova 9901 Pipe
HSN 3 1/4 out from closed
LSN 2 out from closed
idle stop is .7 to .8 mm, a little large I could probably bring it down to about .6mm
8mm venturi, I have a 7mm venturi I could try as well.
approx 8 min 30 sec on the tank.
the tanks were run on the street with the body off so I expect the temps to raise about 20* on the track.
I could close the idle stop screw but I would think I would have to lean out the low end more and the 2 turns from closed already seams lean. When I went to the factory 4 turns out on the LSN, I had to lean it 1 turn to get it to start as it was blowing out raw fuel on the started box without starting. The motor pulls strong with a good trail, but the loading up under short stops could lead to a problem when refueling during the mains. Hope someone can help.
Got the K10 pretty close tonight (thanks Rageworks for the factory settings) It screams like a raped ape with the 9901 pipe. Only problem I am getting is that the LSN needle wants to be very lean. Once the motor is brought to idle from a high speed pass the idle comes down to a nice steady rpm and doesn't change for a good 15 to 20 seconds. But if i give it throttle from idle it loads up very bad lot of smoke and won't clear out for aprox 60 to 75 feet. Doesn't matter if its full throttle, 1/2 throttle, or 1/4 throttle. Once it clears out the top end is great with a lite trail of smoke (hard to see as it was getting dark). Coming off a turn or from a short stop, 1 to 2 seconds, the motor cleans out well and runs great. Any stops from 5 to 10 seconds it loads up bad and wont clear out. Temps were ranging from 205 to 214 on the second tank of gas. (back to back tanks to get the chassis saturated with heat)
I am running the following:
RC8B 1.1 springs with carbon shoes. Stock gearing.
Byrons 25% gen 2 with 11% lube
Motor is just past teh one gallon mark
RB 1051-5 (CP-02) Plug (brand new) Checked plug after 2 hard tanks, coil is still shiny and new.
Nova 9901 Pipe
HSN 3 1/4 out from closed
LSN 2 out from closed
idle stop is .7 to .8 mm, a little large I could probably bring it down to about .6mm
8mm venturi, I have a 7mm venturi I could try as well.
approx 8 min 30 sec on the tank.
the tanks were run on the street with the body off so I expect the temps to raise about 20* on the track.
I could close the idle stop screw but I would think I would have to lean out the low end more and the 2 turns from closed already seams lean. When I went to the factory 4 turns out on the LSN, I had to lean it 1 turn to get it to start as it was blowing out raw fuel on the started box without starting. The motor pulls strong with a good trail, but the loading up under short stops could lead to a problem when refueling during the mains. Hope someone can help.
08-10-2011, 08:14 AM
#288
I poseted thison the RB thread, but figured I would try here as well.
Got the K10 pretty close tonight (thanks Rageworks for the factory settings) It screams like a raped ape with the 9901 pipe. Only problem I am getting is that the LSN needle wants to be very lean. Once the motor is brought to idle from a high speed pass the idle comes down to a nice steady rpm and doesn't change for a good 15 to 20 seconds. But if i give it throttle from idle it loads up very bad lot of smoke and won't clear out for aprox 60 to 75 feet. Doesn't matter if its full throttle, 1/2 throttle, or 1/4 throttle. Once it clears out the top end is great with a lite trail of smoke (hard to see as it was getting dark). Coming off a turn or from a short stop, 1 to 2 seconds, the motor cleans out well and runs great. Any stops from 5 to 10 seconds it loads up bad and wont clear out. Temps were ranging from 205 to 214 on the second tank of gas. (back to back tanks to get the chassis saturated with heat)
I am running the following:
RC8B 1.1 springs with carbon shoes. Stock gearing.
Byrons 25% gen 2 with 11% lube
Motor is just past teh one gallon mark
RB 1051-5 (CP-02) Plug (brand new) Checked plug after 2 hard tanks, coil is still shiny and new.
Nova 9901 Pipe
HSN 3 1/4 out from closed
LSN 2 out from closed
idle stop is .7 to .8 mm, a little large I could probably bring it down to about .6mm
8mm venturi, I have a 7mm venturi I could try as well.
approx 8 min 30 sec on the tank.
the tanks were run on the street with the body off so I expect the temps to raise about 20* on the track.
I could close the idle stop screw but I would think I would have to lean out the low end more and the 2 turns from closed already seams lean. When I went to the factory 4 turns out on the LSN, I had to lean it 1 turn to get it to start as it was blowing out raw fuel on the started box without starting. The motor pulls strong with a good trail, but the loading up under short stops could lead to a problem when refueling during the mains. Hope someone can help.
Got the K10 pretty close tonight (thanks Rageworks for the factory settings) It screams like a raped ape with the 9901 pipe. Only problem I am getting is that the LSN needle wants to be very lean. Once the motor is brought to idle from a high speed pass the idle comes down to a nice steady rpm and doesn't change for a good 15 to 20 seconds. But if i give it throttle from idle it loads up very bad lot of smoke and won't clear out for aprox 60 to 75 feet. Doesn't matter if its full throttle, 1/2 throttle, or 1/4 throttle. Once it clears out the top end is great with a lite trail of smoke (hard to see as it was getting dark). Coming off a turn or from a short stop, 1 to 2 seconds, the motor cleans out well and runs great. Any stops from 5 to 10 seconds it loads up bad and wont clear out. Temps were ranging from 205 to 214 on the second tank of gas. (back to back tanks to get the chassis saturated with heat)
I am running the following:
RC8B 1.1 springs with carbon shoes. Stock gearing.
Byrons 25% gen 2 with 11% lube
Motor is just past teh one gallon mark
RB 1051-5 (CP-02) Plug (brand new) Checked plug after 2 hard tanks, coil is still shiny and new.
Nova 9901 Pipe
HSN 3 1/4 out from closed
LSN 2 out from closed
idle stop is .7 to .8 mm, a little large I could probably bring it down to about .6mm
8mm venturi, I have a 7mm venturi I could try as well.
approx 8 min 30 sec on the tank.
the tanks were run on the street with the body off so I expect the temps to raise about 20* on the track.
I could close the idle stop screw but I would think I would have to lean out the low end more and the 2 turns from closed already seams lean. When I went to the factory 4 turns out on the LSN, I had to lean it 1 turn to get it to start as it was blowing out raw fuel on the started box without starting. The motor pulls strong with a good trail, but the loading up under short stops could lead to a problem when refueling during the mains. Hope someone can help.
Last edited by Lille-bror; 08-12-2011 at 07:52 PM.
08-20-2011, 03:45 PM
#289
I am breaking in my new R21 and I am starting to lean it out but cant get rpms down.
I am getting my engine broke in pretty easily but when I let off throttle it holds revs for a second and if I press brake it comes down quicker. I know what your going to say its binding but I have checked and set throttle link several times and I got a throttle return on the carb so I dont think thats it. Anyway I have tried going both ways with needles but still tough to get rpms down fast and it rolls for a good distance after throttle release. The temps are low 180-200f so I don't think its to lean also it don't pop and sputter like a lean rev would but I only have 1/2 gallon thru it so far and seems decent. I guess the clutch could cause this but i have gold and green with 2 alum. and 2 comp. shoes with a steel flywheel also using lowend pipe RE10. Any ideas ,Thanks!
Last edited by savannahmick; 08-20-2011 at 07:00 PM.
08-31-2011, 09:16 PM
#290
engine
I am getting my engine broke in pretty easily but when I let off throttle it holds revs for a second and if I press brake it comes down quicker. I know what your going to say its binding but I have checked and set throttle link several times and I got a throttle return on the carb so I dont think thats it. Anyway I have tried going both ways with needles but still tough to get rpms down fast and it rolls for a good distance after throttle release. The temps are low 180-200f so I don't think its to lean also it don't pop and sputter like a lean rev would but I only have 1/2 gallon thru it so far and seems decent. I guess the clutch could cause this but i have gold and green with 2 alum. and 2 comp. shoes with a steel flywheel also using lowend pipe RE10. Any ideas ,Thanks!
Mike
09-01-2011, 02:46 AM
#291
I checked carb but it's not sticking and idle screw is set correct.
There is no binding or sticking but I do use a steel flywheel maybe the weight is causing it rev down slowly. I richened top and leaned bottom and it helped some but now I get a little high rev before it idles. I am right at flush or just a little below with both needles and running about 210-220F so it's not lean I don't think. Might be a air leak but not sure what can I buy to seal it up from local hardware store? It runs good a while idle for a long time but kind of unstable idle up and down. Thanks Again!
09-01-2011, 07:02 AM
#292
There is no binding or sticking but I do use a steel flywheel maybe the weight is causing it rev down slowly. I richened top and leaned bottom and it helped some but now I get a little high rev before it idles. I am right at flush or just a little below with both needles and running about 210-220F so it's not lean I don't think. Might be a air leak but not sure what can I buy to seal it up from local hardware store? It runs good a while idle for a long time but kind of unstable idle up and down. Thanks Again!
Or just wait until you have a full gallon through it. Then it should be fully broken in.
Last edited by Lille-bror; 09-01-2011 at 11:58 AM.
09-01-2011, 07:48 PM
#293
I use 97t OD plugs and it's new. I did lower the idle speed leaned bottom richened top just like the bible said is the issue alot of the time. It also has gallon thru it already and idles better but still a little pulse but runs good temps are low 210f and if I lean anymore it gets unstable thru powerband and revs and pops when I get off throttle. I think it might need sealing around pinch bolt/ carb neck. What do you use to seal your engines? Also should I remove .10 shim like the manual says or wait till 2 gallons? I can live with it for now it runs really good and smooth on power just a little weird at idle and when getting off throttle. Thanks for info/help!
09-01-2011, 09:12 PM
#294
I use 97t OD plugs and it's new. I did lower the idle speed leaned bottom richened top just like the bible said is the issue alot of the time. It also has gallon thru it already and idles better but still a little pulse but runs good temps are low 210f and if I lean anymore it gets unstable thru powerband and revs and pops when I get off throttle. I think it might need sealing around pinch bolt/ carb neck. What do you use to seal your engines? Also should I remove .10 shim like the manual says or wait till 2 gallons? I can live with it for now it runs really good and smooth on power just a little weird at idle and when getting off throttle. Thanks for info/help!
How much nitro do you use?
I can't get Plus 4 engines to run smoothly (and perfect idle) with 25% nitro without a OD77T plug after approx. 3 gallons of fuel. All pre 2011 Novarossis plus 4 engines shall have 0,7 mm shims under the head.
09-13-2011, 04:38 PM
#295
My reedy engine is not performing at its fullest i am a newbie to engine tuning. what steps could i take to make my engine run in good performance.
09-22-2011, 09:00 PM
#296
11-03-2011, 09:04 PM
#297
I am having an issue with both of my motors (Werks B6 and RB K10) I heat my motor up to 190 - 200 degrees before starting. Everything is fine with my tune, good smoke, good temps when checked, no lean bog, everything seems fine until close to the end of the tank. When coming to a stop like pitting for fuel the motors will start to what I consider machine gun idle (high idle, buggy starts to shake because the clutch is starting to engage) for about 5 seconds then it settle down to a normal idle or if I blip the throttle it will settle down right away. My blip barely engages the clutch, approx 1/8 of the throttle trigger. If I fatten the lsn needle the motor will die because after the 5 seconds of "machine gun" the idle drops to low and the motor will stall. If I fatten the HSN it continues to happen on every stop until I go that one hour fatter. Then motor will die after about 60 feet, If I restart the engine it starts right up fine, no vapor lock, but will continue stalling until I lean the HSN again it will stay running but will machine gun. All while this is happening the motor has good smoke, no lean bog, pulls hard through the rpm range. I thought it was my tank because it happens close to end of a tank, but the symptoms continue after refilling.
I was starting to think air leak so I tested the Werks and found the front bearing to be suspect so I ordered a new one. And while changing the LSN orings, I tore them so I am waiting for a new LSN to come in. But now my RB is doing the same thing so I am thinking its either my tune or the gas tank. I did swap the gas tank and fuel tubing tonight for racing on saturday. Its hard to finish an extended main if the motor starts to act up at the halfway point. Both motors have good compression and will idle for a long time (approx 30 seconds). Idle gap is set at .55 mm, glow plugs are OD 97t. It seems to me that something is just slightly to lean, but I can't figure it out. I don't remember having this problem when I was racing nitro a few years ago or I had it and never paid attention to it. Sorry for the long post but I am at my wits end. HELP PLEASE!
I was starting to think air leak so I tested the Werks and found the front bearing to be suspect so I ordered a new one. And while changing the LSN orings, I tore them so I am waiting for a new LSN to come in. But now my RB is doing the same thing so I am thinking its either my tune or the gas tank. I did swap the gas tank and fuel tubing tonight for racing on saturday. Its hard to finish an extended main if the motor starts to act up at the halfway point. Both motors have good compression and will idle for a long time (approx 30 seconds). Idle gap is set at .55 mm, glow plugs are OD 97t. It seems to me that something is just slightly to lean, but I can't figure it out. I don't remember having this problem when I was racing nitro a few years ago or I had it and never paid attention to it. Sorry for the long post but I am at my wits end. HELP PLEASE!
11-03-2011, 09:12 PM
#298
I am having an issue with both of my motors (Werks B6 and RB K10) I heat my motor up to 190 - 200 degrees before starting. Everything is fine with my tune, good smoke, good temps when checked, no lean bog, everything seems fine until close to the end of the tank. When coming to a stop like pitting for fuel the motors will start to what I consider machine gun idle (high idle, buggy starts to shake because the clutch is starting to engage) for about 5 seconds then it settle down to a normal idle or if I blip the throttle it will settle down right away. My blip barely engages the clutch, approx 1/8 of the throttle trigger. If I fatten the lsn needle the motor will die because after the 5 seconds of "machine gun" the idle drops to low and the motor will stall. If I fatten the HSN it continues to happen on every stop until I go that one hour fatter. Then motor will die after about 60 feet, If I restart the engine it starts right up fine, no vapor lock, but will continue stalling until I lean the HSN again it will stay running but will machine gun. All while this is happening the motor has good smoke, no lean bog, pulls hard through the rpm range. I thought it was my tank because it happens close to end of a tank, but the symptoms continue after refilling.
I was starting to think air leak so I tested the Werks and found the front bearing to be suspect so I ordered a new one. And while changing the LSN orings, I tore them so I am waiting for a new LSN to come in. But now my RB is doing the same thing so I am thinking its either my tune or the gas tank. I did swap the gas tank and fuel tubing tonight for racing on saturday. Its hard to finish an extended main if the motor starts to act up at the halfway point. Both motors have good compression and will idle for a long time (approx 30 seconds). Idle gap is set at .55 mm, glow plugs are OD 97t. It seems to me that something is just slightly to lean, but I can't figure it out. I don't remember having this problem when I was racing nitro a few years ago or I had it and never paid attention to it. Sorry for the long post but I am at my wits end. HELP PLEASE!
I was starting to think air leak so I tested the Werks and found the front bearing to be suspect so I ordered a new one. And while changing the LSN orings, I tore them so I am waiting for a new LSN to come in. But now my RB is doing the same thing so I am thinking its either my tune or the gas tank. I did swap the gas tank and fuel tubing tonight for racing on saturday. Its hard to finish an extended main if the motor starts to act up at the halfway point. Both motors have good compression and will idle for a long time (approx 30 seconds). Idle gap is set at .55 mm, glow plugs are OD 97t. It seems to me that something is just slightly to lean, but I can't figure it out. I don't remember having this problem when I was racing nitro a few years ago or I had it and never paid attention to it. Sorry for the long post but I am at my wits end. HELP PLEASE!
11-05-2011, 12:26 AM
#299
Tech Adept
Few questions:
Doesn't idle long enough to put the body pins on. My idle gaps on all motors are set to paper clip, about 0.70mm. <- need to lean LSN?
After a few laps, idle heaps high on stop and heats up. <- need to richer LSN?
If car stops for like 7-15 secs then hit gas, it seems to sluggish-bog for like 4 secs then take off. Same thing when starting it off the start box if it flames out. <- is this from too rich LSN or to Lean? I'm thinking fuel buildup from LSN but if I set it leaner, the idle will be high.
You reset a engine to factory settings, it won't start up. Which is then best way to go from here?
Doesn't idle long enough to put the body pins on. My idle gaps on all motors are set to paper clip, about 0.70mm. <- need to lean LSN?
After a few laps, idle heaps high on stop and heats up. <- need to richer LSN?
If car stops for like 7-15 secs then hit gas, it seems to sluggish-bog for like 4 secs then take off. Same thing when starting it off the start box if it flames out. <- is this from too rich LSN or to Lean? I'm thinking fuel buildup from LSN but if I set it leaner, the idle will be high.
You reset a engine to factory settings, it won't start up. Which is then best way to go from here?
Last edited by Vinno; 11-05-2011 at 01:48 AM.
11-05-2011, 01:54 AM
#300
Few questions:
Doesn't idle long enough to put the body pins on. My idle gaps on all motors are set to paper clip, about 0.70mm. <- need to lean LSN?
After a few laps, idle heaps high on stop and heats up. <- need to richer LSN?
If car stops for like 7-15 secs then hit gas, it seems to sluggish-bog for like 4 secs then take off. Same thing when starting it off the start box if it flames out. <- is this from too rich LSN or to Lean? I'm thinking fuel buildup from LSN but if I set it leaner, the idle will be high.
You reset a engine to factory settings, it won't start up. Which is then best way to go from here?
Doesn't idle long enough to put the body pins on. My idle gaps on all motors are set to paper clip, about 0.70mm. <- need to lean LSN?
After a few laps, idle heaps high on stop and heats up. <- need to richer LSN?
If car stops for like 7-15 secs then hit gas, it seems to sluggish-bog for like 4 secs then take off. Same thing when starting it off the start box if it flames out. <- is this from too rich LSN or to Lean? I'm thinking fuel buildup from LSN but if I set it leaner, the idle will be high.
You reset a engine to factory settings, it won't start up. Which is then best way to go from here?
