vladconnery

iTrader: (35)

My practice engine is a BO1 with all new internals this is the one I took the carb from. My Club race engine is a BO1A. I saving the speed for big races. I have to admit I love the easy tuning of the O.S. brand an I thought NOVA's were easy to tune.
However i knew something was wrong with the speed when I started chasing tune. A fellow race has the same XZB speed he got his before me this summer. He had the exact same problems this summer so its not a weather thing.
I actually came by my speed because of the same problems the previous owner was having with it. I thought it was the tuner so I bought it with a half gallon on it seller went back to his beloved Ninja's.
I've always been jealous of the O.S. guys and how easy there engines tuned and sounded. I knew it had to be another issue other than tuneability. I've watched to many times O.S. guys come to the track and either don't touch a needle or make an hour adjustment and there off racing. Now I dont get into who has the fastest engine cause it only matters who can drive there car the fastest whipped many a ninja with a NOVA bf.
With all that said damn my car looked like a Rocket!!!!

vladconnery

iTrader: (35)

Frank I've read many post by you and know you have allot of knowledge. In this instance I don't think it's a weather thing. Now It could definately be a user error as I am new to O.S. but the fix took 7 mins never had to take the engine off the car. Tuning the engine with ease like an O.S. is supposed to be was priceless. Not to mention that a fellow racer had and still has the exact problem with his. He's going to be at the next race and we are going to do the same with his speed. I'll give you some feedback let you know how it worked out.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

+1. The bottom needle can hide a rich setting quite easily on the new carb. It will idle fine and drop down fine, but until it's up to temp, you will not know how rich it really is. You have to lean the bottom at temp until it starts to chatter and then just back it off about an hour. This saves so much fuel mileage also from my experience. Get the engine up to at lest 210 before you even think about trying to adjust the bottom.

VLADCONNERY, There is not a problem with the new carbs. They just tune differently. I set the HSN on a break in bench and never touch it after that. Temp changes can all be corrected through the lsn. If it gets cold, I normally just have to richen the bottom. I never have to touch the idle either.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I tried to change bearings in a xz speed and there was no way to get the sleeve out. I used ice and then heat and a pair of channel locks some fuel lot of elbow grease and all I could get it to do is raise about 1/4 inch. I finally gave up and put in the backup speed. So I was thinking it was a fluke and then my buddy had the same issue. There are 7+ gallons on the engine and it has never been apart (there was be need to) anyone else experience this. I'm a little concerned that this seems to be more common than it should be. The engine was ready to be pinched and be used for practice but now it's a pile of parts. Anyone have an issue like this?

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

I had one after a pinch do this and I destroyed the whole case trying to get it out. We found our problem with the pinch and corrected what we were doing. Buy one of these and you will never look back:

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I have the Grp tool and it won't budge it.

smelly62

iTrader: (25)

Sounds like there is carbon buildup around the exhaust port area on the liner.
Work it in and out that 1/4 inch and it should work free.
I have pulled many engines apart and never had a problem getting the liner out but after 7.5 gallons it will be difficult.
Don't use any metal tools of any kind. I just have the flywheel fitted and then I use a old tooth brush by placing the brush end into the top of the liner and push as many brush hairs as possible out through the exhaust port, turn the flywheel and up it comes. Tooth brush method is way better than cable tie and leaves no damage to any parts.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

If it will not come out with a tool like this, a toothbrush is not going to work.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I was able to get the 2058 all dialed in this last weekend and it is a power monster on the xz speed. For those of you that want all the grunt this pipe is perfect. I'm going to stick with the OS pipes nothing wrong with the 2058 just my personal preference. So I can make someone a smoking deal on a 2 run weeks 2058 pipe and header.

ForwardBite

iTrader: (50)

This is fairly common on OS engines. You can get it out with a med sized zip-tie. What I do is put the piston at BDC, then insert the blunt end of the tie into the sleeve and then into the exhaust port (again through the sleeve, not throught the engine case/block) making sure that the zip-tie is not too far into the port (which would cause the tie to hit the engine case). Then turn the engine over using a pair of channel locks on the flywheel. You may need to repeat this a few times as the sleeve may only move a little bit at a time. It's very easy but difficult to explain. As already mentioned, do not use pliers or anything metal on the sleeve itself as it will undoubtedly ruin the sleeve. If this is too confusing, PM me and I'll give you my number and try to explain better.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

Frank is probably one the most knowledgable OS guys on here, so I am confident he has already tried this. In addition, the tool I pictured above is metal and designed for this exact purpose.

jmackani

iTrader: (14)

Fuel thirsty though?

CarFanatic

iTrader: (53)

you guys suggest 20 or 30 percent nitro? I know 30 give some more power, but 20 gets better mileage..

bigjayjay1

iTrader: (86)

Frank kinda harsh but get a wood dowel insert in back plate align to sleeve and hammer out it works but need to be careful.

Frank L

iTrader: (148)

I clocked 11:15 on a tank in the truggy using a 7mm restrictor. so not that much less than the 12 mins with the 2090 but a lot more grunt.