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Old 03-28-2011, 08:48 AM
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original alum speed question....

how will a Odonnell 97T plug work in this engine?
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Maximo
The piston/sleeve will last the same time...the Speed crank will last much longer...... The Speed has more power from bottom to top.......The B5 is substantially stronger then the blue head XZB, but not quite as strong as the Speed.... The mod B5 outclasses the Speed in every performance aspect, but the Mod Speed compares very well with the mod B5
With a speed, when I replace the sleeve, pistons and rod after a season, should i get another 20-25l from it? Or maybe a pinch and change the conrod. My LHS is a OS vendor and he has very low prices. Everything in Germany and Holland is cheaper than Belgium, except the OS engines from my LHS. And his CS is top notch.

However, I can buy 2 Werks B5's (200euro) for the price of 1 speed (400euro). I'm running 20-30l trough a season so if I can get an other 20-25l out of it the next season with just a new rod, sleeve and piston that might be an option instead of every season a new B5/xz-b
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:20 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
Do you have an idea if the speed last longer than the xz-b and how much longer? And is the difference in bottom end big between the xz-b and speed?
As long as it's a powerful as my Ninja MR .21 I'm happy
And what do you think about the Werkbs B5 maximo?
Either one of those engines will be more powerful than the MR ninja. The XZ-B is more than enough power for a buggy. Do not hesitate to buy the standard one. Now if you want a ton of power, the speed will give you that. Like Neal said, the DLC coating on the speed crank will make it last a long time. You can successfully rebuild a speed and essentially double the life. With a new P/S/R and bearings you'll have a like new engine again.

XZ-B's are pretty cheap right now. Something to consider...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Buggy-Engine

Coupon code for March will save you $25
$250.00 - $749.99 $25.00 DPPMAR1125
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Maximo
the difference between the XZB and XZB Speed is not in the exhaust port, they have the same exhaust timing..
What does the widened exhaust port do?
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by morgoth
With a speed, when I replace the sleeve, pistons and rod after a season, should i get another 20-25l from it? Or maybe a pinch and change the conrod. My LHS is a OS vendor and he has very low prices. Everything in Germany and Holland is cheaper than Belgium, except the OS engines from my LHS. And his CS is top notch.

However, I can buy 2 Werks B5's (200euro) for the price of 1 speed (400euro). I'm running 20-30l trough a season so if I can get an other 20-25l out of it the next season with just a new rod, sleeve and piston that might be an option instead of every season a new B5/xz-b
Jasper, come by me next weekend with the Ger/Hol/Bel race, then we will talk about engines.
This weekend with the Dutch open indoor race a lot off people came to me and asked me to tune there engines, they all didn't drive a Ninja JX or OS engine if you no what i mean
We also seen alot off flame outs in the 45 min A main, non off those engines were OS based
My Ninja JX was great all weekend with a 5th place as result in the A main so were the OS speeds off the rc-speedhouse crew.
Believe me there isnt a more reliable engine out there then a OS based engine.
I will let you no next week how to get alot off gallons out off a OS engine.
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Old 03-28-2011, 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Paulus
Jasper, come by me next weekend with the Ger/Hol/Bel race, then we will talk about engines.
This weekend with the Dutch open indoor race a lot off people came to me and asked me to tune there engines, they all didn't drive a Ninja JX or OS engine if you no what i mean
We also seen alot off flame outs in the 45 min A main, non off those engines were OS based
My Ninja JX was great all weekend with a 5th place as result in the A main so were the OS speeds off the rc-speedhouse crew.
Believe me there isnt a more reliable engine out there then a OS based engine.
I will let you no next week how to get alot off gallons out off a OS engine.
Thanks Paul. I'm trying to find out what the difference is between a €200 engine and €350/400 engine. I don't want to waste an expensive engine because I'm not experienced enough, but I also don't want to race with a flaming engine because it's cheap. I'm trying to find a good, reliable competitive engine within my budget.
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Old 03-28-2011, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
original alum speed question....

how will a Odonnell 97T plug work in this engine?
The engine shoots flames in all directions simultaneously. Not too fast... but cool!
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:18 PM
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haha!
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Old 03-28-2011, 10:43 PM
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What deck heights are people running on the speed?


Have any of you ran 25%? How was the performance?
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Old 03-29-2011, 12:52 AM
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Either one of those engines will be more powerful than the MR ninja. The XZ-B is more than enough power for a buggy. Do not hesitate to buy the standard one. Now if you want a ton of power, the speed will give you that. Like Neal said, the DLC coating on the speed crank will make it last a long time. You can successfully rebuild a speed and essentially double the life. With a new P/S/R and bearings you'll have a like new engine again.

XZ-B's are pretty cheap right now. Something to consider...
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...n-Buggy-Engine

Coupon code for March will save you $25
$250.00 - $749.99 $25.00 DPPMAR1125
I am still running the OS Speed Magnesium Head just over 8 gallons and the compression is pretty good and it idles very well too. It is fast but not the same when it was fairly new. So when do you recommend to change the P/S/R or Bearings or both?
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Old 03-29-2011, 04:46 AM
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Originally Posted by joydude630
I am still running the OS Speed Magnesium Head just over 8 gallons and the compression is pretty good and it idles very well too. It is fast but not the same when it was fairly new. So when do you recommend to change the P/S/R or Bearings or both?
As long as the crank pin is not too worn, I would change both. I do not recall what the minimum OD of the crank pin is for the OS, but that is what I use to make the decision to rebuild and engine.

8 gals is very respectable for the original rod/bearings.
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Old 03-29-2011, 10:39 PM
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Originally Posted by scrapsz
As long as the crank pin is not too worn, I would change both. I do not recall what the minimum OD of the crank pin is for the OS, but that is what I use to make the decision to rebuild and engine.

8 gals is very respectable for the original rod/bearings.
Currently, it should go atleast a gallon and then I would order O.S. Complete Piston/Sleeve/Rod Assembly or the TKO front and rear bearings too. What do you reckon? Get the bearings too..
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:09 AM
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What is a eazy way to get a stuck carb out of a V-spec?It turns but I cant get it out.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:17 AM
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do you have the pinch bolt partially in or have you removed it completely?
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:38 AM
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Originally Posted by kyosho28
What is a eazy way to get a stuck carb out of a V-spec?It turns but I cant get it out.
Take the pinch bolt lotus way out and then work it slowly.
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