So the bearings themselves are not what seals the engine... its the fluid of the fuel between the spinning crankshaft and crankcase that seals.... So your bearing leaking is no issue, no matter what bearing you find you will never get a 100% true seal, the closest you can get is a Nova 17011, which has a double stacked outer shield..

Took the Picco down to the local track (Revelation) and finish up the break in today. I have 2-3 tanks short of 3 quarts through the engine right now and the tune is around 90% I imagine. Ran just shy of 2 quarts of fuel through it today and leaned it out approx 1 hour per tank after the first 4 or 5 (already had 4 WOT tanks through it from a couple days ago). The top end is very close but I still have the idle gap open quite large to keep a good amount of fuel going through the engine. I would say that performance is a tad better than my B6 Pro as it sits right now. Run time is a bit over 8 minutes. Final tank came off the track just before dying at 236° and was running 218-222° with more fuel in the tank. I'll get the idle gap finalized and dial in the LSN this weekend but expect to gain at least a minute of run time if not two.

The engine hasnt flamed a single time as of yet and low end grunt is quite good. I'll tear the engine down again tomorrow for inspection and post the pics. Having no experience with a stock 5TR I have no way to compare it to the CRE but thus far, I am extremely impressed. Something else I found interesting was that there was very little oil behind the flywheel compared to my B6 Pro (it had flung oil all over where my pipe and chassis are just about dry with the Picco). One of my buddies is checking out the CRE website as I type this and he is a cheap bastard!

Took the Picco down to the local track (Revelation) and finish up the break in today. I have 2-3 tanks short of 3 quarts through the engine right now and the tune is around 90% I imagine. Ran just shy of 2 quarts of fuel through it today and leaned it out approx 1 hour per tank after the first 4 or 5 (already had 4 WOT tanks through it from a couple days ago). The top end is very close but I still have the idle gap open quite large to keep a good amount of fuel going through the engine. I would say that performance is a tad better than my B6 Pro as it sits right now. Run time is a bit over 8 minutes. Final tank came off the track just before dying at 236° and was running 218-222° with more fuel in the tank. I'll get the idle gap finalized and dial in the LSN this weekend but expect to gain at least a minute of run time if not two.

The engine hasnt flamed a single time as of yet and low end grunt is quite good. I'll tear the engine down again tomorrow for inspection and post the pics. Having no experience with a stock 5TR I have no way to compare it to the CRE but thus far, I am extremely impressed. Something else I found interesting was that there was very little oil behind the flywheel compared to my B6 Pro (it had flung oil all over where my pipe and chassis are just about dry with the Picco). One of my buddies is checking out the CRE website as I type this and he is a cheap bastard!

Hello neal,

If the fuel in what makes the seal in the front bearing by the rotation, when we will block the vacuum port, less fuel will go through the front bearing and it will cause less sealing. Am I wrong?
I know you're one of the best. and I learned a lot from this thread.
I blocked all my engines ports two months ago after what I read in this thread.

Well theoretically, their should actually be more fuel saturating the front bearing, because the vacuum port is there to suck the excess from the bearing. So in fact, you should actually end up with a leaky front bearing, but that's better than pulling a vacuum and sucking dirt through the front bearing.

Hi, yes you are wrong. Neal explains it a little tough. It is the fit between the crank and crankcase that makes the seal, when you ad fuel/fluid. In track engines, they use steel shield bearings, since there is very little dust. they use it with no problems.

When you produce an engine there must be tolerances. If you get a perfect engine ( one in 20 is my experience), there will never be a problem with the vacumport itself and no need to block it. (when you get that perfect engine you will understand as it runs like a modified one, use less fuel and is so easy to tune. It will also last 1,5 times of a regular one. please mark that the " perfect" engine is a whole package, not just the fit between crank and crankshaft)

Ended up starting a new buggy build yesterday and didnt get around to tearing the engine down. May not have time until after JBRL tomorrow now.

LOL that guy from the "don't buy a clockwork engine" thread has been sending me abusive PM's saying I'm up maximo's ass, referencing that thread.. at least I think it's him, who else would do that.. new user with 0 posts, and uses the same "writing finesse" as that guy did..

You got one of those too. What a schmuck. Told him to pound sand and havent herd from him since. Thank god.

Sorry to say, NOBODY will not change my mind by talking crap about a product or service. I don't make decisions on other peoples experiences. When something happens to someone, I tend to look at all the factors that go into it. 99 times out of 100, I can find a problem with the owner and not the product.

Not saying anything bad about anybody, just there are some things that people do, that is may not "the" cause, but a cause none the less....

I've no experience with the clockwork product, so I don't know, but I can tell straight away that "clocked customer" there was not 100% psychologically, I really hope he gets help.

Funny, I got one too. Someone by the name of Goblin? What topped it off for me was that he used such a similar signature to his real account.

any1 had experience running an o.s speed engine in a truggy ive seen cars at the track they go pretty good though my question is this would it be worth buying a .28 for truggy? like a race spec .28 nova or o.s or even a .25 nova roma or o.s .25 or the picco .28

am i going feel more definate pull?

i say this due to the speeds are a very developed .21 im interested to know how the acceleration bottom end to top end would rate vs a larger engine maybe not so highly developed none the less a bigger engine

would guess they do tho does it warrent enough to buy the .28 hows the feeling in comparison?

Pretty much every .21 I sell modified is going to have more power and RPM then a stock OS Speed.... Some of the .21's will just edge out a Speed such as my 4 port Nova BTT and others like my Bonito or RBSLSDI5 will lay a big time spanking on a Speed... Drive my Bonito back to back against the Speed and the Bonito will feel far more reactive and responsive , A much crisper feel on the trigger

Now when we step into the Roma 25 and the 28's we are in a whole new world of power , my 28-7 will feel nearly twice as powerful as Speed, It will be nearly twice as loud and just driving it you can feel tht its a much bigger engine...

Moral of the story is Speeds are solid stock engines however I have plenty of engines that will make more speed and power .. Of course your always limited by the amount of traction under the tires, and the more traction you have the more you will see these differences in the engines....

Put another quart of fuel through the Picco today and it ran flawless. Wasnt a night and day difference from the B6 Pro which is a good thing but it does have some extra bottom end which was what I was after. The midrange of the Picco feels really nice as well, the B6 didnt seem to transition nearly as well as this engine does. Very nice, linear powerband. Probably has a little more to give on the top end but ran great today. Ran anywhere from 10:04 to 10:40 and temped at 247°. Quite happy with the engine, thanks Neal.

hi if i buy one of the cre modified novarossi .28/7 which pipe woudl you recomend for it?

i have a werkz 2058 ive been running with my o.s .21 xzb engine i could use.

or is there a better option?

also what clutch set up for the .28 i have a 3 shoe standard hotbodies clutch would i just use 3 shoe aluminium with 1.2 springs all round?