It is impossible for me to know without physically measuring the head clearance....Depending on when the engine was modified it will have different clearances, as we did several versions of the engine ..... My advice would be to run the engine both ways, with and without the shim and compare how they ran and then decide which way you want to run it........... If the head is too tight the engine will be temperamental on the LSN adjustment and will want to idle high and never really settle down........ And having too many shims can make a engine unresponsive and have loss of performance, both bottom and top end............ Usually I will test a engine with several different shim combinations and find which one runs the best.....there just is too many factors involved to make any accurate predictions, trial and error is the best and only way.... due to the nature of these engines there is no predetermined ideal head clearance, some engines make a tighter seal then others, some engines have more play in the rotating assemblies, some engines have slightly different machining tolerances on the parts...... vehicle gearing can also affect head clearance preferences, so can tuned pipe selection, fuel selection, oil content of fuel, altitude, glowplug temp etc. etc..... My advice is to run the engine as it is, then once you have it runniing its best then add in that head shim and see if the performance improved or degraded... Also I usually use the finest 0.05- 0.1 mm shims for tuning, you never want to make large adjustments on the head clearance....

Ok, thank you very much for your advice. Hopefully I will get to run it this weekend, cheers.

Quick update on my Buggy mod P5. Over 6 gallons on it and it's running as its best right now, my favorite engine to date. I have the throttle slide only open 75-85% with a 7mm venturi, and it still has slightly better top end than most engines, but the main benefit was to tone the engine down a little and get more run time. I haven't timed my tanks recently, but I normally get 10-12 minutes at race pace, which is 1-2 minutes more than my stock OS engines, including VZB Speed (JQ) and XZB with way more power.

I wasn't sure if I would like a high powered modified engine, but I have came to appreciate it and my results have improved. I think for some beginner level drivers, a faster engine can do more harm than good. But for Intermediate-Expert level drivers, it can be an asset comparing to a low powered engine. The best setup I have found for it is a 2058 pipe, Buku clutch, and OS P4 plug if you are having tuning/flame out issues, otherwise Werks/Novarossi #6's.

Thanks Neal,
Well I'm proud to represent you along with Bigjayjay.
NOW GET US SOME WERKS FUEL!!!!! LOL

hey neal does your clocked b2 have more top end than the stock b2? also which is a better choice between the b2 and jl?

My clocked Jl has been flawless for me.

I was never a fan of OFNA anything but I can say my Clocked OFNA JL is my most favorite motor, On a 2058 pipe this things screams. I love it. My Clocked P5 just shipped from CRE. Can't wait to try it out. Psycho Nitro Blast I will be running two clocked engines. JL in Buggy and the P5 in truggy!

HAPPY THANKSGIVING EVERYONE!!!!

yes..the Clocked B2 has a pile more top end then stock........pretty much night and day difference..

the B2 and the JL are two very different engines... the B2 is more of a low RPM torque engine and the JL is a top end screamer.......so if you want top end the JL is the better choice, but if you want smooth low end grunt then the B2 is what you want....... In a open area the JL is better suited and on a tight indoor track the B2 is better........

thanks for the advice guys. i need more bottom but im used to a lot of top end also... a little confused. i currently run an o.s. speed vz-b II. and which one is the best on fuel? i get a little under 12 mins in buggy currently. i guess i need the best all-around package. im open to more suggestions than these two also, as long as its not a novarossi.

What about the werks B5, great on fuel, tons of bottom and top end.

DHL delivery today, +4 nova. Can't wait to run it!!

B5 & B6 run like a scalded dog.

Decided to run the truggy today at Gulf Coast Raceway while visiting family for Turkey day. The track is huge with the recent RC Pro layout still in place; huge doubles and triples that were literally breaking chassis. There is also one huge stretch that really let you open up the engine and wind her out for almost 225 feet:D:D

Dropped in the Bonito with the 9886/41001 combo and put the pedal to the metal. After just a few laps I had a couple of the Flashlight...err E buggy drivers, look over at me on the stand and ask what the hell I was running in my Kyosho truggy:D. After several tanks I headed down to the pits and one of the guys came by my pit area and said that he was ready to jump back into nitro after hearing/watching my engine run. "Best f$@kifng I have ever heard" and "I can't believe you just blew by my 2250kv Tekin RX8, blah,blah,blah buggy with 15 degrees timing, blah, blah"...:lol:

It's one thing to have nitro guys drooling, but its even more satisfying knocking the socks off the electric guys. Oh, and the lap times don't lie...consistent 34-36 seconds on a layout I had never driven with a setup that was from my home track (think dusty and tight) that didn't let me really jump on the throttle out of corners. The "fast guys" we're running 31-33 seconds in buggy.

Wanted to shoot some video on my iPhone to share with everyone, but before I could, I managed to blow my clutch bearings which ended up shredding my clutch bell teeth against the spur:cry::cry: with replacement parts 250 miles away (my house). That's the last time I travel without parts again:flaming:

Will be back at this facility over the x-mas holiday and plan on not only brining parts and a camera/tripod, but I will also bring the buggy with Big Tex dropped in for some exercise.

modded engine review:
I got my first modded engine from cre in early october. The last two engines Ive ran this year were stock o.s xzb's. I had pretty good luck with those engines as far as reliability, permanence and longevity. A friend of mine got a p5 from cre and that was the first engine I've seen or heard run like that. So i contacted Neal and he advised me to get a ninja b02 given my background with o.s engines.

I broke in the engine like this (similar too werks method):
vp fuel +10% oil for the first 500cc of fuel.
Preheat the engine until engine can be turned over by hand, that way you know the p/s pinch is not putting excessive load on the connecting rod/crank pin/ wrist pin. for me it was 250+comp heater as an insulator.
bottomed out idle screw and opened hsn 1/2 turn, lsn 1/2.
started the engine and tuned the lsn to normal-high idle speed.
idled 1st tank, ran 5 tanks on the ground, with each tank adding a little epa to the throttle, backing out the idle screw and tuning the lsn to maintain idle speed. I also let the engine cool between tanks and preheated it before re-firing.
after tank 6, set the idle gap to .5mm and re-tuned the lsn and ran it on the track, kept the hsn on the rich side and about 3/4 epa, 7mm restrictor.
I ran about 10-12 tanks, the engine had a lot of compression but no metal pinch.

I have a little over two gallons on the engine now and it seems like it runs better and better with every tank. I use a 2058 pipe, buku clutch, vp fuel, 7mm restrictor and o.s p4 plug. Iam getting comfortable 10min runtimes and tempting in the 250-260 range. Still has a lot of compression and requires preheat before every start.

The power band of this engine is perfect. Crisp throttle response, smooth bottom end, strong mid range and incredible top end. And it sounds like a cr500 which is always cool!

I know modded engines have a bit of a reputation of being finicky, but this engine proves the opposite. Easier to tune and more consistent during a race/pitstops than my stock xzb's. I only recall tuning the hsn for a race that was at sea level within miles of the beach and then changing it back when I got home.

One thing ill note is keep an eye on the front bearing, Seems like the higher rpm's causes a little oil to weep out the front bearing after about 1/2 gallon or so. Could be in part due to the vp fuel's low/thin oil content. Depending on your tracks dust levels dirt can/will collect and find its way into the engine. The front bearing is what I consider to be a maintenance item and should be routinely inspected.

I was on the fence about modded engines for a long time but after the performance I am seeing with this engine and the support from Neal and cre i'll never run anything else.