Well I only have the steel m2c and med shoes. Or losi clutches. Any suggestions with what I have?

i heard your just running your idle too low ! I hope you have no ingested a bunch of dirt ! that would suck

That was only at the Nitro Challenge because of that damn clogged pipe. I ran the engine with 12 different tunes on it all to no avail. There is no tune that stops the gunk in the pipe from clogging the nipple. :D

Well that M2C setup is designed to take away bottom end...useful when your running on a very slick track with no traction.........I modified the Buggy P5 to be smooth enough to not need to be dialed down by the clutching......... doing what you did with the clutch is going to totally kill off the bottom end, especially if your running on higher traction surfaces...... I suggest taking all weights out, raising the springs to all 1.0...... that will help some......But myself I would not run a steel flywheel on the Buggy mod P5.....nor would I run the med shoes.......

take her apart and see what you find..... Is this the new truggy engine we just sent ?

Thank you. I will try that until I can get the right setup.

Clocked P5 in Buggy and Truggy
 

Finally got to run my P5's both full mod. For me, and the track conditions I run on the p5 is complete over kill in buggy. Made the buggy VERY difficult to drive on loose /slick conditions. (With that being said I realized it was going to be the perfect truggy motor!) I ended up making some dramatic clutch and flywheel changed to handle the power and balance out the torque delivery off the bottom. The p5 still pulls this clutch and flywheel set up with ease.Throttle response is crisp buggy now tracks well is very stable and still has enough grunt to pull the set up on damp med/high track conditions.
So for the average driver or individual who doesn't get the opportunity run on high traction tracks I would highly suggest the P5 buggy mod.

TRUGGY with P5. BuKu Clutch, 1.5 2.5 3.0 turns in on set screws.Werks 2058 pipe set. They say you don't know what your missing if you never had it!!! Well,over the last 2 seasons I have been looking for a FEEL in truggy I have not been able to find. All of Neals motors perform, it sometimes just comes down to finding the ONE that fits your needs and driving style. Clocked P5 in truggy for me is bad ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! A lot more bottom than my prior clocked mills but yet completely drivable on my loose conditions. P5 makes my truggy feel like a juiced up buggy. Way more drivable than the short stroke motors I ran last season. My truggy feels nimble,one big difference I notices is truggy control when in the air,the low end grunt allows me to maneuver the truck with ease. For me on a race day running truggy messes with my buggy driving skills,just a different style of driving.Most of the time I find myself needing to calm down because I'm over driving the buggy after coming from truggy. Now I'm running the same lines, carrying the same entrance speed into turns and run ups to jumps. Truck just feels like a buggy... Both motors are new and 10 minute pits on race day at race pace is not an issue.To say that I am very excited about this race season is a understatement..... Neal, his motors and what he has taught me over the last year is a big part of that.Thank you again to the boys north of the border.;)

or put one of your Losi setups on it.....

Here's the deal..... that engine will be able to pull the clutching your running......But the engine needs to have dropped its nuts and have a good solid tune on it........... When its brand new your just asking for too much to expect that engine to pull a setup like that...... I recommend against detuning a engine till it has proven to need to be detuned.........The more load you add to the engine, ie heavy clutch, low spring stall, soft shoes etc. the narrower the tuning window of the engine becomes....... The the more you make a engine work, the better the tune on the engine needs to be........ I see too many guys put the carriage before the horse and detune the clutching before they have even mastered dialing in a good functional tune............

One of the best ways possible to make a engine cranky to tune is to put on a low stall , heavy clutch..... all that extra load down low increases the engines need for fuel ...so it requires you to run a richer needle on the low end....As the engine needs fuel to burn in order to pull all that extra load you put onto it......... Running a richer LSN, especially on a colder plug definitely creates more challenges ....

So my advice is to master a basic tune on a normal clutch setup..then if the engine is too aggressive start dialing out the power.......But be aware, the more loaded you make the clutch setup, the trickier the engine is going to be to tune.......

No its the first one I got from you. Has about 2.5 gallons through it now. Im going to tear it down tomorrow but I think the issue is within the carb. I never did clean it good after the clogged pipe issue and all those wacky tunes I was trying to force on it. I did have a crack in one of my LSN O-rings and I changed that last week, but stupid me did not take the whole carb apart and flush it all out good..last night went like this..

preheated it good and dropped it on the track with the same tune from last time I ran it..I was testing new shocks and pistons so that was my primary concentration...

Buggy was so dialed I let a friend drive it just to show off :D
He thought the engine was still a little fat so we did some re-tuning...

ran 4 straight tanks through it after that and everything was perfect...

cool down, take a break, put comp heater back on while I chilled in the pits for about 20 minutes.....

Wanted Tom Stober to feel the new pistons so gave him the trigger....

Started buggy, dropped it down...half a lap, ghost flame, retune, another, re-tune, another..this went on for about 2 tanks of fuel..

we switched spots and I drove while Tom pitted me...another half a tank of the engine flaming and machine gunning and high idle not dropping down immediately...problem though was lowering the idle and tuning the low end made the flameouts worse. Like I said it seems to be a bitch with the perfect tune and would run good fat...Another half a tank and Tom was able to dial it in again and I got about 2 full tanks after that running great with good power, smoke, temps, and no flames..

I just feal that something is wrong though because I should not have to be all over the place with the tune...how can it go from perfect to jacked just like that and then a complete re-tune to get it perfect again?

I like crepes...

That sounds like dirt in the engine....... usually if a engine starts chronically flaming out when it was running perfectly before usually is a sign something has gone wrong......... the number one culprit I see is dirt in the engine.....Most definitely take it apart and see what has happened.... should never have to mess with a tune like that...if you do, then it is probably a sign that damage has occurred and the more the engine is run from that point, the more damaged it will become.........

Ok I'll let you know. I got one of those OT sleeve pullers I'm dying to try :D

Here is what to look for on the crankshaft

http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...ar62011006.jpg


if you see this, then the engine is probably toast !

Unfortunately we do see this sort of damage quite often..... usually the symptoms are exactly how you describe...engine is running flawlessly...then out of nowhere it starts flaming out for no reason..... At this point the engine needs to be taken apart and cleaned out if there is going to be any hope of saving it....... 1 grain of sand is all it takes to ruin one of these mills...... the longer the engine runs with dirt inside, the more severe the damage is going to be..this week I have 2 OS Speeds and a Bonito come thru that were filled with sand and near total write offs.........



http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...h172006040.jpg

Happy to report that there is not even the tinyest stratch on the crank or inside the piston. Bearings seem also also. I did have a badly torn exhaust gasket which was brand new when I hit the track. That had to cause major issues. I also think the carb needs a good cleaning. Internals all nicely coated with oil. Love my powermaster fuel.