Clockwork Racing Engines and Products...
#3886
The P5xlt is a screamer and I really like mine. They run really cool. Before a heat I said the heck with it and leaned the lsn and hsn out a good bit and the motor was screaming! I thought oh no this son of a gun will probably come off 280+. It came off at 221 and never touched the needles again!
#3887
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,807
From: Virginia
heating system. I'm sure George really appreciates you spending the
extras bucks to keep his paws toasty warm.
Hey, ya know you got to keep the shop security guard happy.
#3890
Well here is my thought on this motor after running it over the last three days during an event, The clockwork modified Nova P5XLT is an awsome 5 port motor, power on demand and even better run time, Well let me explain because the motor is only 6 litres old I didnt want to risk a 10 minute heat on the engine during the national title event but Neal convinced me to test the run time during my 10 minute practice prior to the semi finals bump up and WOW came to mind, 12 minutes later at race pace the engine was in the pits still idling away on the pit wall, I had to stop the motor running to leave the pit area so the next ground could make there way in, so 12 minutes and counting with a temp of 209f.
This motor has plenty of power to race in a truggy around a track with a top end that had no issue with the 170 feet straight thats for sure and I believe it has more to offer once the pinch is all but gone from the engine, with a M2C clutch, 4 reg hard shoes, 2 x 1.0 & 2 x .95 springs and 8 grub screw weights fitted and running on a 7.5 venturi the engine deliveres great power right from the second you touch the controls and it comes on so smooth when using control and can be an animal if your trigger happy too.
I would highly recommend this engine for people not wanting to go and spend hundreds of more dollars on top end motors as this baby is the goods and the proof is in the pudding.
This motor has plenty of power to race in a truggy around a track with a top end that had no issue with the 170 feet straight thats for sure and I believe it has more to offer once the pinch is all but gone from the engine, with a M2C clutch, 4 reg hard shoes, 2 x 1.0 & 2 x .95 springs and 8 grub screw weights fitted and running on a 7.5 venturi the engine deliveres great power right from the second you touch the controls and it comes on so smooth when using control and can be an animal if your trigger happy too.
I would highly recommend this engine for people not wanting to go and spend hundreds of more dollars on top end motors as this baby is the goods and the proof is in the pudding.
#3892
Had a front diff start skipping/clicking in the 3 minute warm up and raced with it that way and missed out by a lap or two on making the A main final the crown was skipping over the pinion at times and grabbing at others which made it hard to hold a apex lines, thats racing should have re shimmed the night before.
#3894
Had a front diff start skipping/clicking in the 3 minute warm up and raced with it that way and missed out by a lap or two on making the A main final the crown was skipping over the pinion at times and grabbing at others which made it hard to hold a apex lines, thats racing should have re shimmed the night before.
#3895
I did 35 laps with the diff skipping, started just a little and by the end it was skipping alot and when you think I was cutting 40's in the heats 35 laps in 26 minutes was not the worst effort but was more like limping around the track.
Pulled it down today and found that it needed 4 shims behind the crown gear to get a good solid mesh ( the one behind the bearing was great when new but I should have check and re shimmed it the night before ) down side was with such a large track to maintain each night I was just out of energy to do a complete re build and did a half arse job, motor ran awsome all weekend
Pulled it down today and found that it needed 4 shims behind the crown gear to get a good solid mesh ( the one behind the bearing was great when new but I should have check and re shimmed it the night before ) down side was with such a large track to maintain each night I was just out of energy to do a complete re build and did a half arse job, motor ran awsome all weekend
#3897
Tech Master
iTrader: (47)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,807
From: Virginia
I did 35 laps with the diff skipping, started just a little and by the end it was skipping alot and when you think I was cutting 40's in the heats 35 laps in 26 minutes was not the worst effort but was more like limping around the track.
Pulled it down today and found that it needed 4 shims behind the crown gear to get a good solid mesh ( the one behind the bearing was great when new but I should have check and re shimmed it the night before ) down side was with such a large track to maintain each night I was just out of energy to do a complete re build and did a half arse job, motor ran awsome all weekend
Pulled it down today and found that it needed 4 shims behind the crown gear to get a good solid mesh ( the one behind the bearing was great when new but I should have check and re shimmed it the night before ) down side was with such a large track to maintain each night I was just out of energy to do a complete re build and did a half arse job, motor ran awsome all weekend
the power that the CRE mills unleash on them ? How much runtime did
the gears have on them before they let loose ? I've never had to worry
about re-shimming the rears on the old truggys I run. But I do check
and replace my bearings often, if they need it on not.
Has anyone else had problems with the Serps ring & pinion gears or
diff housing bearings ?
#3898
I did 35 laps with the diff skipping, started just a little and by the end it was skipping alot and when you think I was cutting 40's in the heats 35 laps in 26 minutes was not the worst effort but was more like limping around the track.
Pulled it down today and found that it needed 4 shims behind the crown gear to get a good solid mesh ( the one behind the bearing was great when new but I should have check and re shimmed it the night before ) down side was with such a large track to maintain each night I was just out of energy to do a complete re build and did a half arse job, motor ran awsome all weekend
Pulled it down today and found that it needed 4 shims behind the crown gear to get a good solid mesh ( the one behind the bearing was great when new but I should have check and re shimmed it the night before ) down side was with such a large track to maintain each night I was just out of energy to do a complete re build and did a half arse job, motor ran awsome all weekend
#3899
Awe Man!, don't tell me that the gears in the Serps can't handle all
the power that the CRE mills unleash on them ? How much runtime did
the gears have on them before they let loose ? I've never had to worry
about re-shimming the rears on the old truggys I run. But I do check
and replace my bearings often, if they need it on not.
Has anyone else had problems with the Serps ring & pinion gears or
diff housing bearings ?
the power that the CRE mills unleash on them ? How much runtime did
the gears have on them before they let loose ? I've never had to worry
about re-shimming the rears on the old truggys I run. But I do check
and replace my bearings often, if they need it on not.
Has anyone else had problems with the Serps ring & pinion gears or
diff housing bearings ?
If the serpent diff is skipping it's prob the front and shim it a little tighter Thai a shim from the right and add it to the ring gear side to make the mesh a little tighter.





























