Just you nevermind young man!

He! He! He!, Neal didn't tell me he got that one to test out.
The header is so damned ugly, I just got to have
one to test on my engines too.

fine! :rolleyes: :ha: :batman:

EFRA2083 Schepis / REDS / Boss

Got the B5 dialed and all the hype and statements about this mill is true .WOW very impressed. The power and run times are GREAT!!!. Different tune from a Speed took some time to adjust but once you get familiar with how the needles react its very simple.

Neil is a great person to buy from he backs his product up and will help you until your mill is running perfect. We talked once and he kept calling and emailing asking how thing were good to know hes got your back when in need.

:):)

I can't wait to see it on the track :D Congrats bro!

I went through my 1st 3 racedays getting homed in on needle balance, idle gap, listening to it's unique sound with the 2013 when you hit it's sweet spot. It's one heluva truggy engine. Great mileage and power.

:ha:You have been getting "homed in on" for more than 3 race days:lol:.Is that the closet door i hear closing behind you??:ha:

Hey your not suppose to know my little secrets :D

the one thing that really pleased me when breaking in the B5 was how easy and how fast it took

I preheated for about a half gallon and stopped since the movement one the P/S isn't bone breaking.

This really helps and preserves the Rod bushing and crank pin. I'm not sure if this how it comes from the factory or it Neil does something special. I believe I read he matches the P/S before he send out to help on the break-in process.

All Clocked motors (that require it) are hand lapped to ease on the break in procedure, which in return puts minimal wear on the con rods/bushings etc. We have had tremendous results all year with this added service that we include with every modded motor. Glad to hear you liked the process as well!

Hahaha!!!

Preheating all your engines every time before you start them will increase lifespan dramatically. Thats why those engine heaters are so popular now. they pay for themselves after 6 gallons of fuel because you'll get another 3-4 gallons out of your engine

Neal, after reading about removing the head shim on the B5, I was curious if you had tested the B6 with a shim removed, and what the results were??

Removal of shims on B5/B6
 

Hey Neal I just wanted to finish up the conversation I started on Rons B5 thread regarding the removal of the
.13 shim from my B5.

I read through pages 85-87 on this thread and got some good info you posted about the removal of the shim. I was able to pull off the shim tonight and I am going to run it tomorrow. I will be running 30% Odonnel fuel and wanted to know if you think I will see any benefit in run times with the shim removed. Looking at your graphs it looks like I will see a little bump on HP and torque. If I go down to a 25% or even 20% fuel do I need to put the shim back?

You mentioned that I may need to richen the HS needle a bit. Any other things I may want to adjust? My B5 is already broken in, but would you recommend the removal of the shim before the engine is broken in? Also I was curious to know how you measure compresion ratios. It looks like with the shim removed the compresion ratio will go to 7.9/1. What exactly does this mean?

Sorry for so many questions and thanks again for your expertise!