Hello,

Thanks for purchasing Tecno Power!!

Glow Plugs will be here next week.... The engines come with an H6 plug that is the best plug in all but the coldest conditions. Other brands of plugs are not nearly hot enough.

Amain and Absolute Hobbyz should have plugs in stock next week. They will also stock a full line of replacement parts in the next couple of weeks.

You can check our site for the most current dealers..... RacerDist.com
Or email us if you have any questions

Tony, how many gallons of fuel do you have through your mill now? And have you had to do anything to it? Longevity goes along way with me.. Since i have had 2 engines this year need a pinch just after 4 gallons..

Hello Scotty,

My engine has approx 2 gallons on it so far and its still tight. I have to use a heat gun for the first start of the day. I've been running it anywhere from 220-270 degrees and it still has a ton of pinch. I dont really feel like its completely loosened up for maximum RPM yet. I think at the 4 gallon mark the engine will just start to run at its prime.

Rebuild after 4 gallons is pretty soon IMO. I would expect 8+ gallons before needing any parts or maintenence. As long as the engine is cleaned and inspected from time to time you should be able to spot a problem before it ruins the engine. After every big race I tear mine apart and check the bearings and rod play and thouroughly oil the engine up for the next race. Rust will destroy an engine before you know it.

Of course in the end the guy with the screwdriver will determine the life of the engine, I wouldnt run it any hotter than 260 because there simply isnt any more power to make, and temp above that will begin to damage the bearings and rod journal in any engine. I also go through alot of air filters making sure they are sealed and doing theyre job. In that amount of runtime I've gone through approx. 10 air filters. I dont re-use them, just toss and use a new one. I also coat the air boot with filter oil just in case a spec of dirt makes it through it has a chance to get caught on the boot.

Another piece of mind is that the TecnoPower engines do not use cheap bearings or materials. While some engines have inherant bearing or wear problems that people have come to expect within the first 5 gallons, our bearings are as good as any "premium" replacement bearing stock. and the crank has been hardened to minimize wear on the rod journal. Extra oiling has been designed into the piston to almost double the life and lubrication of the #1 wear item inside the engine. Extra oiling on the rod cools and lubes the big end to lengthen its life as well. These are not just another engine with a new box and cooling head, the B01 is just the begining of what Rody has planned.

If you were to get under 4 gallons of hard race use out of a B01 I would be surprised and would feel good about a cash bet that either the engine ate dirt or was continually overheated. I fully expect my engines to go 8+ gallons at race pace every weekend. And at that point I think all they'll need is a rod replacement and maybe a bearing freshening.

Thanks Tony, you always give good information.. I wish you were still running HB, but I understand why ya made that change too.

Currently I am planning to go down to 1 race vehicle. And am looking at 3 different engines, B6, TQ, and the TechnoPower.. This will be for next season, so I am doing my research in advance..

NP

Anyone from your area going to burlington CO rc pro on the 18th? We'll be there with several engines that you could check out and test drive. I heard there should be some TX guys showing up.

Hey. I have a question. Where can I purchase the exhaust pipe/manifold for the TQ engine.

I have a credit with A-Main hobbies and plan to purchase the TQ engine. I don't see the pipe/header on their site.

Is there a different source for purchase.


Thanks.


Also, If i follow the breakin Bible on this site, is that sufficient for the TQ engine or are there other suggested ways to breakin the engine. (better to make it last longer)

Need I be worried about the connecting rod after breakin??? meaning think about changing it??


As far as the upgrade goes from the Mugen Ninja, Unless I find a different case, I think I will keep it as a paperweight.

Are the bearing sizes the same between the TQ and the Mugen NInja MR??

Thanks

Wow.. Spoke to soon.

Found the pipe/manifold on Amain in the parts section.

One question though. Is there a differnent manifold. The units with the larger diameter turn seem to hit my bodies and melt them. Maybe something with a shorter diameter or a D type turn.



Thanks..

Here is some good info on tuning, plugs etc.

http://www.racerdist.com/category_s/8.htm

I've been using the Cryul breakin routine lately and my engines have been very consistent and still have a ton of pinch......WOT controlling RPM with HSN blubbering rich.

The bearing sizes should be the same between the GRP, TQ and Ninja MR series of engines.....

That is the only manifold that we use...we havent had any clearance issues yet. What are you running it in?

If your looking for a new case for your MR Ninja: the GRP cases are a direct fit. Those cases are on sale atm on A Main...20$ i believe.
TQ cases will fit and probably the Tecnopower cases aswell.

Engines look great, cant wait to run one at the indoor race this week. I

let us know how it goes I hope your pleased with the performance, We're starting to get feedback from racers all over that are getting their engines broken in and on the track. The response has been nothing short of excellent.

Most racers compare the power to a speed or Novarossi but smoother powerband and better fuel economy

I recommended the Cyrul break in to a guy on here a while back that was in a hurry to do his break in. Man people bashed me for that

Still not my favorite method but does work great in a pinch.

Really?

I think we all arrive at the same place after breakin with any method if theyre done properly. I like sending a ton of fuel through the bearings and rod at first so it has an abundance of oil available. I've done my last 3 engines that way and they all run stellar. I think I could make some easy cash if I were to bet an experienced racer how much fuel has been ran through them by looking at the internals. They all look new still with a perfect polish at the top of the pinch zone on the piston. By all indications, I should be able to wale on these for a long time

I agree completely Tony but you have to admit that if you have never done it before and never heard of it before, it sounds kinda nuts

I never would have even considered it if Josh wasn't the one recommending it. Glad to hear more people are trying it with good results.

Running in an engine is an endless discussion, It seems no one can blame or praise the engine itself if the outcome is bad or good. Todays engines still have tolerances and sometime they do fall right to get the best performance and sometimes those tolerances do fall bad making it a good engine but not as bad we could get 20 years ago.

I am involved with the development of an engine and we have tryed all kind of running in processes and we must say the outcome is not to see in performance but it is shown by scratches on the piston and later on in the the lifespan.
The best way we have is first remove the head and only using the buttonhead. The temperature will be at normal operating temperature but with still with a very rich setting. That will give a large expansion of the sleeve giving less forces on the crankshaft, bearings, piston and rod because the pinch is low. After 2 tanks we switch to a half size head and later on to the full head.
With this there are almost no visable scratches and the piston does show a nice polishing edge every time.