kodiakbear7070 you need to run 2 .020 shims for a total of .040 of head shims for 30% on the Axe Rossi mamba SG X 1. But you need to Check and make sure you head button has a 3 stamped on top of it. Axe Rossi had some stamped with a 2 for 20% not sure way they did that but they did.

so these engines need to be reshimmed for 30%? and how is the sport motor? buddy of mine is interested in trying one

NitroLuver the new motors should not haft to be be reshimmed for 30% but it is good to check to make sure the motor has the right shims when it comes in and to seal the motor to keep it form getting Air Leaks.

If you friend is looking for a good price have him send me a PM are you can do it for him and i will give you a GREAT price as i am a dealer for Axe Rossi.

Bump for the Axe Rossi Guys

Hi guys, i have axe rossi sport and i'm having problems with its temperature keeps increasing.
The motor was brand new when i got it and i've used the heat cycle break in method where i run the motor for 3 minutes with low throttle and for a total of 25 to 30 minutes.
but now i'm having a problem with the temperature of the motor keeps increasing to around 145 degrees celcius before i shut the motor down.
I have a very visable trail of blue smoke when accelerating and also when i pinch the fuel line at idle it will increase rpm and then die in about 3 seconds later.
i've tried adjusting the LSN but i think its already running very rich, anymore and the car starts to splutter and makes it sluggish when taking off.

The only thing i can think of is the way my temps measured, i don't have a thermometre :lol: but i use the thermosensor on the dx2s receiver and i have no idea how accurates at those high temps, it usually reads about 4 degrees hotter than room temp.

thanks.

just to help any that have had problems tuning the mamba, the instructions via website and on the paper that comes with the motor says 2.5 turns out from "closet" not closed which screwed me up, i checked the website and they say 3.5 from "closed" on the main needle and 2.5 from "closet" on the lowspeed, which tells me that closet does not mean closed and by my research could stand for flush. so i went out to my mamba engine that was giving me a headache and went back to stock on the main needle and 2.5 out from flush on the lowspeed, and WHALLA!! the engine started up fine and loaded up like a nitro engine should do when the lowspeed it fat, threw it down set the highspeed, brought it in and slowly leaned the lowspeed to about a 5-10second steady idle then loads up and then BAM! good bottom end with no bog and NAXTY top end! and it lowered my engine temps as well, so my motor matched with a med axerossi plug + coldfushion 30% +jp-1 pipe is a great combo!

starting point on mamba( if this doesn't work u have a mechanical issue or a air leak)

main needle 3.5 turns out from closed

lowspeed 2.5 turns out from flush on carb housing(will be rich but u can tune it out)

Hope this helps!!

145 C/ 293 f is way too hot. I have 3 AXE Rossi's and I've always had to tear them down and seal them up good after break in. They always seemed to have a leak somewhere and ran high temps and erratic idles unitll sealed. I use my Mamba as a back up engine but it's as good as anything out there.

speedzone99 AKA Russ its about time you got your Butt on here and helped me out :lol::lol::lol:. Let me tell you guys this Russ is one of the best Engine Tuning guys i have ever been around he has called me and we have Talked about his findings and i think he is a 100% right i think the LSN should be set at 2.5 out from Flush and start your LSN tuning for there. And your HSN at 3.5 to start with.

hi thanks for the reply, when you mean leak, where am i looking at the cab or the engine itself? also do you normally use some kind of silicone to seal it?

thanks,

Yes you need to seal around the Back Plate and the Carb this stuff works GREAT.http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Engine-Sealant

thanks, i think mine has an airleak somewhere because i just checked my settings and LSN is around 2 and a quarter turns out from flush. This was from just playing around with it previously and having not read ur posts, so your pretty much spot on, anymore then 2 and 1/4 turns out the car splutters and doesn't idle its too rich. :lol:

thanks for the help again guys, as i think axe rossi isn't as popular in australia and its hard to find information about it.

Yep i think Russ was right on the Money on the LSN and HSN. Axe Rossi is just now starting to make a come back in the US lot more people are running them now that we have some US Drivers that will help people with there motors and stuff like that.
I was Just Picked up by Axe Rossi this year as a US driver and Love Helping people and selling motors and Parts for Axe Rossi.

If you need any more help are Parts Just let me know and i will be more then happy to help you.

I would just like to thank both you guys for helping the rest of us out havent had the chance to ask speedzone99 or russ rather any questions but I keep this thread is one my fav. for the fact that I am running the Axe Rossi Mamba I went with this engine for serveral reasons one price specs on it far as bore, stroke, power etc dont have them setting in front of me right now so I can not give numbers but I did the same as russ there Ive read that paper so many times I have just about wore it out. I sealed mine from the get go from what I read before finding this thread I knew it was going to be a headache. So I took my time and made probley way to many mistakes with the motor Ive had it too lean Ive had it just about looking like a sprinkler out the exausht even the glow plug itself Ive had fuel coming out of yes I know many of these mistakes is costly but I took my time and when I felt it was wrong I packed it up for the day and done more and more reasearch on the
motor. All and all I hope to have this motor on my local track this yr how well I finish I say not to good just a green horn hear but just my two cents I will suport axe rossi all the way Ive even heard my motor as wacked out of shape as it was against a .28 motor idling and it still sounds more powerful so to say like I said just my two cents but thanks guys for helping out with these motors.

I have a Axe Rossi X1 with the Hot Mod done to it. This is a little bit older engine. It is not the EVO motor. I switched out the head on it to a turbo head and I was running P3 plugs, but they wouldnt seal in the head which was causing a flame out issue. I am Running a JP-3 Pipe, and was Just wondering if that Pipe is a good pipe for that motor and if I switch to the Rossi plugs will the head stop leaking. I was also wondering if I could just buy the crank that has the expoxy in it the Evo crank. I have not seen the the cranks for sale. My crank doesnt have the Epoxy in it. Any help you could provide would be appreicated. I really want to run this motor. I had issues with the original carb so I swapped it out to a OS Ninja carb and that seemed to work really well. If you dont know which motor this it lloks just like the Evo X1, but the Head is a lighter Color.

Nick64merc Yes i know the motor you are talking about i have one and have run it and love it with the Turbo head on it. You will need a new head Button the threads are not the same for Axe Rossi and O.S. P3 plug if you get a new Button you can run the Axe Rossi plug and it will not Leak. I can sale you the Head Button and the Plugs if you like and will make you a GREAT deal on them i all so think Axe Rossi make a Kit to make your Motor the newer Mamba X1 EVO i can look this up for you and let you know what it would cost if you would like me to.


And Yes on the JP3 pipe i have run that pipe with that motor and it works GREAT the best pipe to run with the motor is the JP2 but the JP3 is all so good. With the JP2 on the Axe Rossi Mamba X1 on a STRR truggy my friend and Axe Rossi Sponsored Driver Casey Sipes was getting 12 min run times on a BIG out door track and was running the truck Hard with TONS of power.