thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

Bump for the AXE Rossi

CF'STURBO

Hey Chris I'm back. Glad i checked all the post and found out about HSN and LSN. OH yeah bout time you put those mills in a nice Buggy

thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

How's that Mamba Running for you?

Yep i am Loving my MBX6 its one super buggy i just wish Mugen had more Shirts and stuff like that all i have to wear now at the races is Losi Stuff .

TC3ElectricGuy

iTrader: (5)

i've got my next race meet on this sunday. engine is going to see it's first real race tune after it's first race where it richened up a lot during the day.

hope to see some better lap times and a more responsive car. not to mention better run times.

will update with info after the race.

thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

OK let me know how it dose for you.

thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

Guys i have been running my New Axe Rossi Serpe Motor on my Losi L8ight Model and it has been running GREAT it have been getting 7 1/2 min run time temps around 240 at the end of the tank and has TONS of power i have a BIG Dirt Oval race this weekend 100% pay back with money added it should pay back $500.00 are more to Win and some of the Fastest guys from all over the US are coming.

Hope i can do good in this race for Axe Rossi Cold Fusion and Kal-Gard THANKS for all your Help guys i will try and bring home some money.

claymonkey

One of my first engines that I used when I stated to race was the blue head sport engine. It did not have the best runtimes, but it sure was super reliable, heck after I put it up for some more powerful and better mileage engines, it was used by two of my buddies at different times as they blew their engines up at a race. Both times used in a truggy and they did not feel they neede more power and they were shocked at how easy to tune it was and as reliable for them as it was for me. I would like to try them again sometime, but agree they need better runtimes.

thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

Claymonkey the new X2 Cobra i have has been getting 8 to 8 1/2 min run time on it and runs Great and that is on a BIG out door track at the AMS Race i was pitting at 7 min with it and that was a Big Fast Track. I can tell you this on the Axe Rossi motors the Pipe has a LOT to do with the run time out of these motors.

thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

Guys just gone to let you all know how i did in the Dirt Oval Race i came in 2nd in the B Maine had a good run just not fast anuff to get in the money the Little Serpe Motor Ran GREAT Temped 235-240 all night and had TONS of power i never got pulled down the strait and the motor was getting 7 1/2 in a tank of HARD Running. I can tell you this if you race Dirt Oval the motor is one of the best motors you can have all the guys at the race said it was running Strong and was super fast.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Hi. Has anyone blown up a Mamba?

The piston was basically locked in the sleeve.

The connecitng rod seems o.k.

The block was warped.

I had to mill the sleeve out of the block.

I purchased an X1 kit and found out after the block was warped after

trying to insert the new sleeve.

Has anyone had problems.??

Thanks

thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

How was the Motor Blown Up if the Rod was ok what happend to the motor to make it Quit running? The only time i have seen a Block that was Bad was after a Rod Broke and put a hole in the side of the Block and that was on an X1 Mamba but that was with the Old Rod and not the New Rod that Axe is using now.

Send me some more info on the motor and i will see what i can do for you.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Well, all I can tell you is that It was running well, running fast, then stopped. The motor still had a lot of pinch in it. I still have the piston /sleeve/connecting rod which is still attached to the piston. The piston was freed by pushing down on it but, the sleeve would not come out of the block. The only thing I think I replaced on this motor was the bearing. Funny, I was wondering what to do with the motor parts.

I tried everything short of dynamite and c4 to get it out.

I tried asking a friend with a GRP puller to get it out. No such luck.

Heating to 300 degrees to slightly expand the block in order to get the sleeve out. Nothing.

I tried hitting the bottom of the sleeve with a screw driver to get it to hopefully free it up so I could pull it out from the top. No such luck.

Finally, it took me over 1.5 hours to slowly mill the sleeve out without damaging the block.

I purchased a new kit to rebuild the block and upon trying to put the sleeve in, it would not fit. I didn't want to force the sleeve in as I have never had to do so with any other engine.

The head doesn't even have a scratch on it. I try to take really good care of my engines and I really like Rossi engines at that. I have a Black magic and a Rossi LSK. Sleeves were a little tight on these engines, but, not like this.

Anyway. That all I have on this one.

thenova70ss

iTrader: (53)

OK here one thing i don't understand and that is the motor was running and just Quit but the Rod did not Brake and the motor had Pinch but you wonted to take the sleeve out.

So way did you wont to get the Sleeve out of the motor if the Rod was OK and the Pinch was good the motor should have Ran if the Pinch was good and the Rod was good and it did not have any Air Leaks it should run.

I would like to see some Pic of this motor just to see what your talking about and all so did you buy the motor NEW if so Axe Rossi my can Help you.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

Well, when a motor simply just stops, I generally want to find out why.

I had to tap the piston from the top of the piston with a socket to get it to go

down. After that, I wanted to tear the motor down to see why it stopped.

Upon trying to get the sleeve out, I figured something really was wrong and

figured the piston/sleeve were done. Thats when the exercise in trying to get

this thing apart started.

Would you like me to pm the pics or post them.

Dr. Evil

iTrader: (12)

In any event, shouldn't the sleeve come out of the motor??

Why should I have to use C4 to get the sleeve out??

I have always torn down my motors after a weekend to inspect them and

never had this problem before. I have always in stead of using afterrun oil,

torn the motors down, cleaned the motors out, oiled them, inspected them for

damage, rough bearings, slop in the sleeve, wear on the piston and then

reassemble them and in most cases, sealing them from air leaks. I only pulled

(had someone else do it ) the bearings if they were damaged and needed

replacement.

Just a thought.