the 2084 and 9901 run great on the p5xlt as well. same deal, 41021 short or 41029 short(tight bent) header with these pipes

I personally run the 2084/29 combo on my p5xlt in my MBX6R and love it

2096ss/41021 is the goods on the p5xlt :nod:

P5XLT
 

Good to see what people think.

Nice to know there are people that think alike.

I think I'll go with the P5xlt with 096/2096.

Thanks Teufel and all.

How much fuel did you have through it?

"Houstson Tuned"
 

Hi. Not trying to sound like a pill here and I am not trying to ask for
trade secrets either. Just want to know what you get when something is
"Houston Tuned"

Are we talking smoother idle, smoother (less like a light swtich) throttle
More fuel economy, Smoother bottom end, Higher revs (etc, etc, etc)???

What does one get.

Again, I don't want to know how it's done or any company secrets, just want to know what to expect for the price.

Thanks

what Manifold would be good?

E,

I'll call you in a bit

How much are the novarossi 24065 carb ?

Found it

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/images/nvr24065.jpg

http://www.absolutehobbyz.com/produc...g68qsm5k1sch30

How does the 2096 compare to the Losi RE12 pipe?

I just recently got a RE12 and it's the same as a 9901 which is a great pipe for most Novas. My buddy runs a 2096 and he told me that it's just a little smoother and easier to drive than the 9901 but they are both great pipes. The RE12 is about half the cost and less likely to get bent than the Nova pipes which are easier to bend or dent IMO.

Good day I have a NOVAREX engine from the late 80’s for a RC500. Im looking for a replacement piston and sleeves or can someone help me for a suitable replacement in the current line of Novarossi engine
Any info will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

NOVAREX 350 3port plus 1
here some spec.
Sleeves Piston
Inside Dia. --------- 16.63mm Outside Dia. ----- 16.63mm
Outside Dia. ------ 19.92mm Height ------------16.65mm
Head Outer Dia. --- 22.20mm
Height--------------- 13.06mm
Bottom to base of exhaust port ----10.05mm

Monty Thank you for your time on this.

I was on your site looking for a new Mill

I seen you said the plus 21-4C "TEAM" over the Btta or the BTTs or BTT.

Why Sir?

I would like to have a smooth OS vspec type feel like back in the day when the vspec first came out.

I love to hear you input on this sir.

Thanx Dibbs

Just ask guys who have used both;)

A few of us around here are finding that the re12 powerband is slightly more powerful than the 9901. Sounds kinda strange given that the re12 is supposed to be a copy, but we've found some differences.

I run a stock P5XLT with the RE12 pipe in buggy and I love it. Great combo.

17011 front bearing

ok , i have had this happen to guys a couple times over the last couple of years so here is a tip and warning

when installing the 17011 front bearing in your engine , do not use a flat faced bearing installation tool unless you have some sort of spacer to let install tool surface hit the outer race and not the inner race as the bearings inner race protrudes by .3mm . this will do irrepairable damage to the front bearing and render it useless

it is the best bearing on the market bar none and when properly installed will yield the best protection you can get from a front bearing


hope this helps

I have always heated the block and froze the bearing so it just slides right in. and then use the crank before everything cools to make sure its all lined up properly. Is that still an ok old school method?

Re: installation of front bearing
 

Houston. Good day.

Soo. When installing a front bearing, is it not advisable to use a hudy bearing removal/installtion tool?? Isn't this and some others the type of tool that basically presses on the center portion of the bearing.

Interesting...

Also, what about the concept of heating the case and freezing the bearing?

Thanks

Pull everything out of the motor including pinch bolt. Heat the block in the oven or use a heat gun, this expands the metal. Once the block gets a little over 300* the front bearing will pop our with a slight push from behind. Freezeing your new bearing makes it slightly smaller (contracts the metal). Get the block back up to a little over 300* and using the crank I push the front bearing back in from the front. Quick pull the crank and put it back in the motor the correct way and spin it. Doing this lines up the front and rear bearing. Be careful not to dislodge the rear bearing or you'll have to re-seat it too. I have pulled and seated a lot of bearings that way and never had problem. including the OS .50 Hyper I ran in my Trex 600 at high head speed for gallons and gallons on end, I lost count around 18 or 19 gallons :eek:.

Bearing replacement
 

I have replaces several bearings over years. I'm by no way saying I'm an expert and like to hear the different ways to do something.

If the fit is tight, then I warm the block up. I slowly press the bearing in and when it gets to almost bottom, I go even slower. I can feel the bearing reaching bottom and that is when I slow down even more. I can see over pressing the bearings can put excessive pressure on the balls and the internal races. Who wants to blow up an engine by such an act. I don't.

Hudy bearing tool FTW!

Thats what I do, but lots of people say using the tool is better.

.

????
 

According to Internetslang.com, FTW means

F*** the world???

so are you trying to say use the Hudy tool and to heck with every else???


LOL>.

FTW means For The Win

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=ftw

Funny im always looking up these text slang words and im 40 guess im getting old

For The Win I hope it means.

Never heard of internet slang website.

FTW means For The Win lol.

FTW
 

Woops???


I like the other one better.

and yes... I looked that one up...

Maybe my brain is getting tooo full and i can't retain all these acronyms.

Geesss..

Swell....

LOL>.

This is my BTT, just broke it down for the first time. Is the rust normal?

It has about 2 gallons on it (Odonnel speed blend and Byrons 9%). If the motor sat for more than a couple of weeks, I would run the fuel out and use ARO.

What is the best way to clean it?


http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/...9/IMG_0457.jpg

Using ARO with a lint free cloth actually helps remove a lot of rust :nod:
I use it on other stuff too because it works so good.

In the future don't run the fuel out if your using byrons. Just stop the motor before it runs out of fuel, dump whats left in the tank and store it with the crank/clutch pointed down it will keep all the oils inside the motor and coat your bearings.

Bonito realibility problems
 

removed

That could be soooo many things man

Kinda hard to understand your english but it sounds as if we need more detail about your setup , ie. Pipe, plug, clutch, chassis , fuel brand, etc.

Could be as simple as a clutch or engine is not broken in all the way ?

Crank
 

I use a wire wheel on my dremel. It works perfect. and some wd40.

Trying to help a buddy out... What glow plugs aside from Nova can you use with the p5xlt? I know ODonnell was an option, but they are no longer made. Can he use OS or Dynamites?

If you use O.S plugs you'll have to stick with them..

Dynamites should be OK.. Werks #5 is good option..

Something tells me you didn't break in the engine...

Don't start blaming Novarossi, the engines are made perfect, only thing that can cause problems is the user....

Odonnell does still make plugs? amain sells em.

Other than that, Werks #6 or #5 or GRP #6

But Novarossi plugs will be the best... C6TGC

Don't use the O.S. plugs...

Ha
 

That's just silly. I had a toro team that did that all the time, it is similar to the bonito. I will never buy another extra long stroke 7 port.