349LikesNOVAROSSI Engine thread....
04-25-2013, 12:30 AM
#5386
wow
You know I usually stay out of things like this but wow, I just don't understand where this is coming from. Neal is one of the nicest guys I've met in rc and the two engines I recently got from him were shimmed with two .30 shims making it .60. I had told him I run 25% nitro. That is very slightly lower clearance than usual, but not a big enough change to come on here and be so rude. He even included the .20 shim wrapped all carefully in cardboard and sealed in cling wrap. Every engine fanatic has their own way of doing things and that is the great thing about a hobby. some guys drive consistent, some blazing. Some engines are mild and some wild. After talking to Neal on the phone I realized he is just about the most friendly guy I've met. It's a bit upsetting to see you Joe come on here being so rude to such a great guy and from what I have learned a very intelligent man. One thing I've learned in forums over the last 4 years is if you disagree with someone that's fine, state your point, but be polite. We all love racing and think our own way is the best, but sometimes if you open your mind and listen a bit more than talk you may just learn something. I know I have from guys like Monty and Neal, and Ray for example. I've learned a lot and still have lots to learn. that's the fun part. Like my grandma always said, "If you can't say something nice, then don't say anything".
04-25-2013, 04:02 AM
#5387
So what is the best/most common practice on air filter changes. Pre-oiled, not pre-oiled, what type of oil to use? Proper cleaning of the fiilter assembly? This seems to be the main problem with engines getting hurt, just curious what everyone does?
Also what do you use to clean your engine block and components? I have asked before but didn't get an answer, trade secret I guess haha.
Also what do you use to clean your engine block and components? I have asked before but didn't get an answer, trade secret I guess haha.
04-25-2013, 04:21 AM
#5388
You know I usually stay out of things like this but wow, I just don't understand where this is coming from. Neal is one of the nicest guys I've met in rc and the two engines I recently got from him were shimmed with two .30 shims making it .60. I had told him I run 25% nitro. That is very slightly lower clearance than usual, but not a big enough change to come on here and be so rude. He even included the .20 shim wrapped all carefully in cardboard and sealed in cling wrap. Every engine fanatic has their own way of doing things and that is the great thing about a hobby. some guys drive consistent, some blazing. Some engines are mild and some wild. After talking to Neal on the phone I realized he is just about the most friendly guy I've met. It's a bit upsetting to see you Joe come on here being so rude to such a great guy and from what I have learned a very intelligent man. One thing I've learned in forums over the last 4 years is if you disagree with someone that's fine, state your point, but be polite. We all love racing and think our own way is the best, but sometimes if you open your mind and listen a bit more than talk you may just learn something. I know I have from guys like Monty and Neal, and Ray for example. I've learned a lot and still have lots to learn. that's the fun part. Like my grandma always said, "If you can't say something nice, then don't say anything".
04-25-2013, 05:49 AM
#5389
the problem is neal i dont think YOU know how to set a head correctly and i'm not the only engine guy who thinks so. trapped compression, or "swept volume" is not the only thing to consider when adjusting a head. your engines are setup on the edge and if you run them hard with a good pipe setup they eat plugs. anyway back to on topic,, blowing plugs causes scaring like that, yes dirt can but not what would pass through an air filter if you happen to neglect air filter maintenance. what you're saying sounds ridiculous. it would take a large amount of course dirt to do that kind of damage, like if you lost a filter cage or had a bad front bearing suck dirt, or had a glow plug coil go through your engine!
I Am sorry dude, bot your talking our your arse...you have nothing to back your words and are just talking trash.... My engines are very mildly set...LOL...usually the exact same compression as stock......Many customers end up pulling shims out...... And each engine is usually sent with extra shims just in case .........
the pics of thew scarred cranks are 100% from sucking dirt.... no way on Earth does a glowplug coil migrate to the crank and create back smudges and gouges..it just doesn't happen that way... when you see scars on your crank like that it is 100% from dirt......
Perooto's engines are stock, his have never been in my hands, his sucked dirt thru or around his not so lucky airfilter end of story !
Broken glowplugs are from bad tuning decisions and nothing more...... !!
04-25-2013, 05:52 AM
#5390
You know I usually stay out of things like this but wow, I just don't understand where this is coming from. Neal is one of the nicest guys I've met in rc and the two engines I recently got from him were shimmed with two .30 shims making it .60. I had told him I run 25% nitro. That is very slightly lower clearance than usual, but not a big enough change to come on here and be so rude. He even included the .20 shim wrapped all carefully in cardboard and sealed in cling wrap. Every engine fanatic has their own way of doing things and that is the great thing about a hobby. some guys drive consistent, some blazing. Some engines are mild and some wild. After talking to Neal on the phone I realized he is just about the most friendly guy I've met. It's a bit upsetting to see you Joe come on here being so rude to such a great guy and from what I have learned a very intelligent man. One thing I've learned in forums over the last 4 years is if you disagree with someone that's fine, state your point, but be polite. We all love racing and think our own way is the best, but sometimes if you open your mind and listen a bit more than talk you may just learn something. I know I have from guys like Monty and Neal, and Ray for example. I've learned a lot and still have lots to learn. that's the fun part. Like my grandma always said, "If you can't say something nice, then don't say anything".
Actually when you take into account the cut button we are only .1 mm closer then stock...but with the higher exhaust timing we end up at or slightly lower then stock compression...
Since I like my engines to idle down fast I keep the compression slightly on the lower side.......We have other ways to make power that doesn't involve cranking compresion
If a engine is over compressed it will want to run ringy pingy ping ping ping....it will not idle down correctly after a high speed run.......
04-25-2013, 06:12 AM
#5391
interesting enough, some said on here that you should not run Odonell plugs in clocked engines because of the higher compression that they have... is that true or false...
i've seen it posted for quite a few engines but the fire 11 stand out because i was looking into buying a stock one.. and read that...
this leads to be very interested
i've seen it posted for quite a few engines but the fire 11 stand out because i was looking into buying a stock one.. and read that...
this leads to be very interested
04-25-2013, 06:37 AM
#5392
interesting enough, some said on here that you should not run Odonell plugs in clocked engines because of the higher compression that they have... is that true or false...
i've seen it posted for quite a few engines but the fire 11 stand out because i was looking into buying a stock one.. and read that...
this leads to be very interested
i've seen it posted for quite a few engines but the fire 11 stand out because i was looking into buying a stock one.. and read that...
this leads to be very interested
I set all my Nova's between 0.018"and 0.020"head clearance, with a trapped ratio of 7.9/1...very conservative....
04-25-2013, 06:41 AM
#5393
how much fuel thru it ?
what tuned pipe ?
what clutch and in what vehicle....
97T is a very very bad idea in a Clocked Fire 11, your dancing with danger running that plug.........That plug is scorching hot for a engine that runs as high of compression as my F11 does.........Be very careful you don't drop the coils into the engine, OD97 are not durable enough for that engine IMHO.....I suggest a Werks #6 or Nova #6..........
We have seen improvements in mileage by swapping to a long LSN carb...the stock carb has a very short LSN....A long LSN meters the fuel better and will deliver better runtimes..........
what tuned pipe ?
what clutch and in what vehicle....
97T is a very very bad idea in a Clocked Fire 11, your dancing with danger running that plug.........That plug is scorching hot for a engine that runs as high of compression as my F11 does.........Be very careful you don't drop the coils into the engine, OD97 are not durable enough for that engine IMHO.....I suggest a Werks #6 or Nova #6..........
We have seen improvements in mileage by swapping to a long LSN carb...the stock carb has a very short LSN....A long LSN meters the fuel better and will deliver better runtimes..........
well you did say you run higher compression in your engines... just so you know you had said it before.. i looked for it so that i'm not crazy....
04-25-2013, 06:53 AM
#5394
No matter the reasoning at the end of the day the OD glowplugs are just too fragile to be used safely in my engines..... The coils are thin and brittle and the timing is very advanced.....Even on engines running slightly less then stock compression I don't trust the OD glowplugs.....
And over the years we have played with compression a fair bit...my engines 2-3 years ago were usually slightly more aggressively compressed them my current engines.....These days I prefer to leave the engines more conservative and allow the customer room to lower the head if needed......
04-25-2013, 07:05 AM
#5397
yes and no...its actually a little more complex then that........but at the end of the day bearings are not seals...and if the engine is drafting thru the front bearing there is a underlying issue behind the bearing that goes right back to the basic design of these engines.....There are certain steps we can take to reduce this venting, but at the end of the day the Buku dust cap is the ultimate solution...
04-25-2013, 07:11 AM
#5398
take a OS plug out and snap a picture if you get a chance..... with special attention to sealing taper of the plug..... If indeed the plug is not sealing correctly as we will see the stains on the bottom of the taper...as anything exposed to combustion will carry the same residue as the rest of the combustion chamber..
04-25-2013, 07:30 AM
#5400
So what is the best/most common practice on air filter changes. Pre-oiled, not pre-oiled, what type of oil to use? Proper cleaning of the fiilter assembly? This seems to be the main problem with engines getting hurt, just curious what everyone does?
Also what do you use to clean your engine block and components? I have asked before but didn't get an answer, trade secret I guess haha.
Also what do you use to clean your engine block and components? I have asked before but didn't get an answer, trade secret I guess haha.