Opinions on using p3 glow plug on a p5xlt

To hot

If really wan to use os plug, p4 is preferable p3 too hot n wont last

N21 3cq
 

Has anyone of you guys had any experience with this mill?I know...I know...it's not a $400.00 mill and the fastest the on earth.I'm a sport racer and have had a lot of luck with more budget mills.just found this gold head, standard plug with a pipe for a little over $100.00.any help would be appreciated.thanks

What are you wanting to do with it? Zip up and down the street, or race competitively?

Even for a budget racer buy a turbo engine. I'll never run standard plug again after switching to turbo

Stick with the nova plugs. OS plugs are just too hot for these engines.

Thanks guys, I'm going to stick with the C6TGC.

In the past I've broken-in engines starting off with 25%nitro for one gallon, then switched to 30%. Am I just wasting time doing it this way or just stick with just straight thirty?

I will race the engine,not in the pro class though.sportsman is my speed.and usually it the guy that can stay on all 4 Tires the longest wins the main.like I said years ago when I was a weekend warrior,everyone ran v specs and other all out powerhouse engines but me I ran a werks b2 in a Losi and the consistacy of that mill with solid consistent laps would take me to the top of the leader board every time.looking for that same thing out of this nova engine.

why such a hard on for the turbo plugs?basicly if the engine will run from full to empty,what's the difference?I'm sure it has some sort of performance gain but if the plug will last say 2/3gallons what does it matter.other than 9 bucks each.I do own a turbo engine also,but the nova I found I'm interested in is a standard plug engine.

Is an ok engine, just lack top end. For that price, no complain

From my experience they tune easier and run better. No stupid copper washer. My experience turbo has led to better fuel mileage as well.

that's what I figured to,the track I race at the most doesn't have much straight to speak of.bottom to mid is usually the pipe selection there anyway.

those are good reasons to run a turbo plug engine.I haven't even fired the little engine I have installed and already looking for a replacement.

Price and performance on a budget , it's hard to beat the elite 5 and P5 2016 pricing.

It's not really a budget thing.I like it when you do well in a race a guys want to know what engine your running.than they find out it costed half what they payed.the look on people's faces is priceless.

The Elite 5 is priced VERY far below most common engines.

If only the Elite 5 were the norm and not the exception when it comes to price. I'm not some expert racer by a long stretch. However, I think it's safe to say success running nitro has as much to do with the user/setter-upper/driver as it does to do with brand/model/how much money you throw at it. I'm sure most guys who race at a high level could do just great with an Elite 5. Right pipe, right clutch, right fuel, right tune..., good driving and on and on... They buy the big money engines - or are given them or given them for a deal being sponsored, to get 20 seconds extra run-time or whatever, something which is relevant for maybe %10 of the guys out there racing.. Racing would be cooler if it weren't suffused with pressure to constantly dump more and more money into it.

I agree to a point. The price per performance for the elite 5 still blows most engines out of the water.

I still love my samurai and OS engines, but there's no denying this fact. That said, the bottomline is, an engine will always be held back by tuning ability and how broken in, or how worn out it is.

Whats everyone verdict on using 9901 pipe with 40132 manifold?

Good combo, the pipe give agressive bottom, 41032 is shorter manifold right. I prefer 2096

whats the difference between 41032 and the 41001 HDR

The 41032 is conical, and little shorter than the 41001. It's basically the conical version of the 41019. So with that, it should be a little more aggressive overall than the 41001.

I need some help. I need to know the Novarossi part number for a ceramic 14.5x26x6 rear "special" engine bearing.

It's the one with the retarded/ hard to find inner race.
I've been searching the interwebs with no luck.

Edit- never mind I found it a few pages back

Get the Tko, www.tkocompetitiondev.com

Rex

Mito vs Legend
 

So my Clio gave up the ghost today as both bearings went bad… anyways I'm looking to upgrade to one of the 4 ports (mito & Legend) except don't know which one to get. Now that both have been out for a bit I'm hoping you guys can shed some light on which is "better". Also, the header pipe combo will be 9901/41021

Drake uses the Mito, and the rest of the Nova team uses the Legend.

Mito comes with extra long stroke, does it produces more bottom end? Legend has been fantastic

17.6mm for the Mito VS 16.8MM for the legend... I would think so. Usually longer strokes produce more torque.

Looking to get a little more Upper RPM out of my P5. Tune is good. Plenty of torque at the moment just would like a little more out of the top side.....
Running a 2096 with 41021 header.... thinking of going to a 19 or 33. Thoughts, cautions, experience on either of these.

IIRC there is an onroad crank that is super popular to put into the P5 to get it more top end. What insert are you running?

Anyone have knowledge with the nova BT7? Does it have the bottom to run in Truggy and what would be the best pipe setup?TIA.

I *think* that's the mugen branded keep off 7.

For the price, I'd tell you just do the legend 7 - better price newer design, better carb. should be fine in truggy.

6.0 Nitromizer insert. Tried the Nova stock 6.0 insert but lost low end drivability and about a minute of run time with it. Didn't see a difference in top end. But that was when the motor only had about a gallon on it.... she has about 5-6 on it now. Still has great compression but will be due for repinch/ rebuild by June/July time frame.

Also been thinking of ditching the 2096 and using the 9883 with 21 header. Herd to many good things about that pipe.

That 9886 pipe does magical things - 2 chamber blah blah blah.

You'll also get told to run an 8mm insert...it'll get 5 minutes of runtime too, haha.

That said - I'd try at least a 6.5 or 7.0, and see what kind of mileage you can get.

I haven't tried it - but a buddy told me if I ever run a P5 based motor to buy and run this crank:

http://novarossidirect.com/15006_p_2167.html

N21-3T crankshaft?
If you want milage then go your way. But kep in mind you will loose lots of power.

Not really wanting to get inside the motor.... That's why my original question was just about headers only... If I wanted to break the motor down, I would just get a new one and be done with it. Too much headaches and too many things to go wrong when frankenstiening mills. Im pretty sure engine manufacturers do their home work on their motors. Ill leave that to them and reap the benefits...:sneaky:

I ran the 7mm insert and 2096/021 combo for a while in my truggy and it completely killed the top end. Ended up going to 9853/001 with the 8mm insert and it was a completely different engine.

If all you want to do is swap headers maybe try the 41001, 41032, or 41019. The 41021 is smooth, but a lot more tame than the square headers.

Try 2058 pipe, no matter what crank you use, it still uses the same sleeve which the porting is same so it wont make much difference unless you send it for mod then u will see something noticeable difference.

Does a ceramic bearing make so much difference to standard steel balls?

Does a silicone filled + tungsten balanced crank make much difference?