Once again the EFRA 2032 pipe and Novarossi 41001 header proved to be a perfect match for my old BTT engine at a race yesterday. Best mileage of all engines at the race, all the bottom I could ask for, and a top speed that no other drivers could match - and thats with a 6 mm venturi. Buttersmooth powerband :nod:

Toro Nero
 

I just picked up a used Toro that is like new. I know this engine has been discontinued but my question is do any of the curent engines share the same parts as this one?

Need advise, i bought an engine from ebay and is NEW, i noticed that the crank shaft show some play like 2-3mm meaning when u push/pull from front side bearing, it show some play. This is the first engine i bought with this problem so can it be use? Before i send back or ask for replacement... Thanks in advance

that is normal.... The crankshaft wont be locked into place until you install the flywheel....

Really? cox this is the first time i get this engine with so much free play

Sorted out, thank you so much

They made 3 versions of the Tero Nero...the base with a standard plug, a turbo plug version and the Team version. For the turbo and team...a few parts such as plugs,head button/o-ring/shims, carb, cinch bolt, crank, bearings and conrod are shared with the Bonito. As for Keep Off XL, same items except rear bearings are different.

The piston/sleeve/rod set from Toro Nero Team engine is very close to Bonito & Keep Off XL. The part numbers are 08567-T10 vs. 08567-T11 and upon inquiring to the folks at Novarossi in Italy, they stated the sleeves are slightly different but will work in either engine.

Hope this helps

I have a 41030 header for my Mugen, is that the same as a 41001 header? couse i also have a 2032 pipe somewhere stored in my house. I also have a 2045/198 combo that i use in my RB WS7 L2G and a S7 L2G. I have some racing engines that would be fun messing around with different pipes. So if you have any good ideas, here is the Racing engines i have: Novarossi Bonito 7XLBS, RB WS7 L2G, RB S7 L2G, Novarossi Pluss.21-4Btt, Novarossi Toro nero Team i actually owned 2 toro neros but a bastard stoled one of them, and then i have a team orion 3 port engine i bought used, so i don't know what type Team orion 3 p it is, probably from 2009. i Forgot to mention that i have 2 9901/41021 pipe combos and a 9886 pipe, So if you or other people have some good ideas about combos that is very good based on the engines, Pipes and headers i have, let me know :) Today i am going to try out on my Xray XB9'13 a 17T clutchbell in My Bonito 7xlbs where i normaly use a 15T, the stock one is 13 but the Bonito is to strong to use a 13t it will only do wheelies and spin all to much so i have to use a 15T the bottom is still very very strong but driveable and offcourse the speed has increased a lot , but anyway im going to test out a 17t to see how fast it goes, i could have tried out a 19t but then i have to drill out more space in the chassis that holds the engine mount. With the 15T i use normaly in my xray have a peak speed that holds 68 kph with the 9901/41021 combo ((I use a Skyrc Gps) with the BHP the Bonito holds im sure i can give fulll throttle from the start, but if it was a 19 i think i would have been very carefull with the throttle from the start. Yes it is fun to see how fast this nitro racing engines can be and the bottom who can be faster then a el powered offroad car.

Thanks alot!

Sorry, I have only tried the pipe on Novarossi Plus 4, Plus4 Team and BTT. Maybe AM from Norway can help you with the other engines.

The 41030 is much longer than the 41001 and not bended so I doubt it will suit the the 2032.

Use the shortest header you have with the 9886 ;)

Speed test
 

[QUOTE=Lille-bror;13419891]Sorry, I have only tried the pipe on Novarossi Plus 4, Plus4 Team and BTT. Maybe AM from Norway can help you with the other engines.

The 41030 is much longer than the 41001 and not bended so I doubt it will suit the the 2032.

Use the shortest header you have with the 9886 ;)[/Q

Thanks, then i have to use the 41021 what is the shortest header
i have. I tried out the 17 t clutchbell on my Bonito 7XLBS
yesterday in my Xray XB9'13 with a 9901/41021 combo.
Christ on a bike how fast it went and still it had a good
bottom, very smooth powerband and that with a 17t
clutchbell...lol. It was a crazy kick driving it with
that speed. Im thinking of checking out the speed on
my GPS today, but the weather is a litlle bit unstable
today. If it aint start raining i will do it today and will
keep you informed. I will use proline caliber super soft
tyres on the car, im not sure if it is the best tyres
to use. All of my other tires is mostly super soft
and soft, no meduim tires.

[QUOTE=Dr spoony;13421854]Yes now i have tried My Xray XB9'13 top speed
with The Bonito.21-7XLBS with a 17T Clutchbell
and the GPS showed 84 kph. Not bad at all.
i wonder what it would have made with a 19T :eek:

This is how you should calculate your pitstops: Pitted every 9 minutes in the a-main. After the 45 min final, I had to drive nearly one more lap (34 sec), and then drive into the pit. Stopped the engine and checked the fuel left in the tank... Well... there was still some left in the fuel line... ;) During the quals I calculated the mileage to be between 9.46 and 9.58... Proved to be right.

Posted this on the break in thread with no responses yet so I wonder if anyone here has any advice:

Breaking in a new nova p5 with Byron's 30%. Engine starts fine but I can't get it to stay running, when I pull the igniter off it dies after about 5-10 seconds unless I add throttle input. The idle does not slow or speed up before it dies it just shuts off. I have leaned the low needle about 4 hours and it does not die when I apply full brake, should I lean the high speed needle at this point? I haven't touched it yet or continue to lean the low end?

I have since leaned the low end a little more to where it is beginning to be in from flush. It now idles fast for abut 2-3 seconds and then slows just a bit before it dies, I am trying to complete some low speed (about 20-30%throttle) runs to keep it warm and it will occasional die when i remove throttle input, but does not die when brakes are applied. I just dont want to lean the low end too much and have it cause any damage.

Replace glow plug to a 5 if you haven't already

What is your question? are you talking about top speed?
Then you have to write what kind of REX engine u
have and what set up you are using.

I haven't, but I forgot to mention that its 95 plus degrees out, should I still change it?

Yes, also did you preheat it? What temp? You may also need to raise the idle.

Yes you replace the plug

Yes preheated to 190-200.

I'll try the hotter plug and see how that goes, thanks for the help

Ok, story time. It seems for the life of me I have no luck with the novarossi Btta/ plus 4. I bought the +4 when they first came out had issues, now years later I bought a Btta and am having issues. In both cases it's just random flame outs. I know how to properly break in and tune an engine and I am just scratching my head on this one. My latest Btta would just randomly flame out from the very first tank of break in. It has never stopped even now. I have very close to 1 gallon on the motor . Used byrons 20/12 for a half gallon, then went to Vp 20/9. I don't blame either fuel for my issues. I started with the byrons because I wanted the extra lubrication. Went back to Vp simply because that's the only 20% fuel I can find that has a lower oil content. I prefer the lower oil for racing. I took my motor apart this past weekend to look at the internals and maybe see if I could find anything wrong. First thing I noticed is that I feel there is quite a bit of play/slop in the crank pin or rod. With the piston at tdc you can feel the pin moving around in the rod. What does a new crank pin spec out to and what is still in tolerance after break in? Other than this everything looks perfect inside. I was thinking about this and let's say my crankshaft pin is worn, the flame outs were there even on the first tank. So I can't help but think something else is going on. My intentions of this post are by no means a rant on novarossi products, just looking for some input. I have never had issues with any other nova motor, just the 4 port. I will just stick with the P5 motors.

I would highly suggest swapping the front bearing out for a new one and see if that stops the flame outs, Play in the big end at tdc is normal and if you only have one gal thru the engine it should be fine unless it was ran in at temps below 170f .....or there is a lubrication issue etc



Dave,
FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA

Have you tried running 25 or 30%? What glow plug do use? The engine comes shimmed for 30%.

+1

You need more nitro. 0.8 mm (stock) shimming for 30% nitro and 0.7 for 25% nitro. It shouldn't have made flames during break in though even with 20% nitro.

I know I disagree with all in here, but you need more oil when going down in nitro and visa versa

A bearing is a fairly inexpensive item so I will go ahead and replace it. My engine did come with the double rubber sealed bearing and shows no sign of leakage. At this point I am desperate so I will replace it anyway. Motor always stayed over 200* F during break in. I did my best to keep heat in the motor but still be rich during break in. Thanks for the advice.

I have not tried any higher nitro percentages yet. I was under the impression nova's were shimmed for 25% so I didnt feel running 20% would be an issue. It never has for any motor I run but I understand your point. I am running the stock C6 plug. I plan on putting the motor back together with a new front bearing and then going back to the track and re tune with a few different plugs.

I will try more nitro but but why not reshim for 20%? I say that as I am not the driver I used to be and 25-30% is a bit much power for me. What kind of clearance would I want for 20% ? Thanks.

well
 

In my experience the c6tgc plugs kinda suck for break in. The above mentioned using a c5 plug for that reason. The shimming is probably not as big of deal. I use a 97t plug for break in and then switch to a c6tgc.

These pro engines just isn't designed for low nitro %. I've tried soooo many things to get them run perfect with 0 - 20 % nitro, but they just don't run consistant. I know some drivers only runs 20% though.

Its not enough to reshim. Its something with combustion chamber size etc etc.

The factory shimming is for break in so no need reshim. Fuel 20% is good to go even lower percentage nitro. If not a fault plug then it the carb... Idle gap+lsn n over rich hsn

Yes you can pop an Avid in there for $10 and might just save you allot of headache, the guys are right about using a hotter plug for break in also & of course verify the plug is ok

Ive seen a few front bearings give this problem and they don't necessarily have to be leaking fluids to be giving running / tuning issues

Have you tuned the engine much since it was new on the crazy rich factory settings?



Dave,
FUSION X ENGINES AUSTRALIA

please do not use the avid front bearing , its not good

the avid rear bearings however are pretty decent

if your 17011 is not leakibg then its not the front brng

use a c5tgc glow plug

I recently had one that wasn't visibly leaking, but when I dismantled the engine it was like the inner circle of the 17011 bearing could wobble around in there.
I'm not sure I want to spend $30 on 17011 bearings anymore.. how much worse can the run of the mill 607 2rs c3 bearings like what Alpha use, really be?

its not "just" the bearing which pushes out oil or sucks in dirt , many dfrnt factors involved

the tko front are better than the avid front for sure

you can do what you wish but out of hundreds and hundreds and hundreds or more like thousands of engines I guarantee you will not find a better front bearing than the 17011

Dave, on my second outing with the motor I burned around another half gallon of fuel. By the end of the evening I found myself tuning for more performance. I am not a person who uses a temp gun. I go by smoke, sound, and performance. Out of curiosity I did use my exergen once, the motor made great power at 270* F. I have heard stories that these motors run between 300-340 when tuned. I couldn't imagine how much power I would have had running that lean. I did do all of my tuning on the same plug from break in. It also seemed the leaner I went that the motor was less likely to flame out.

Dave, on my second outing with the motor I burned around another half gallon of fuel. By the end of the evening I found myself tuning for more performance. I am not a person who uses a temp gun. I go by smoke, sound, and performance. Out of curiosity I did use my exergen once, the motor made great power at 270* F. I have heard stories that these motors run between 300-340 when tuned. I couldn't imagine how much power I would have had running that lean. I did do all of my tuning on the same plug from break in. It also seemed the leaner I went that the motor was less likely to flame out.

270 to 280 is about where you`ll be at after break in at full race tune after about 1.5 to 2 gallons. Anything over there is something wrong like drag on drive train. My btt would sing at 280, and did so for 8 gallons. Now my x5 is a screamer at 250. I only temp to make sure runs are consistent to make sure nothing has gone bad like a bearing or clutch setup.

but it´s so much difference in driving style isn´t it?

my friend and i switched cars last time out.
he didn´t manage to get my engine warm enough, it richened up a lot and i made his engine become way too lean. same track, same time!

my engine´s are always 15-20° hotter than his, just because i´m so hard on the throttle and he´s so smooth.

+1 :tire: