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Originally Posted by savannahmick
(Post 10087092)
I opened up my R21 Nitrotec and JX.21 to clean and inspect them. When opened up the Nova I noticed alot of rust/carbon on the end of crank and I am curious what causes this because my Ninja was clean as a whistle? I ALWAYS run all of fuel out of my motors and after run oil everytime but I do use Odonnel for the Ninja and Bryons for the R21. I couldn't get the sleeve out of the Nova without risking damage is there a easy way to remove sleeve with limited tools? Anyway I cleaned it out the best I could without removing internals with motor cleaner and put a bunch of after run oil in it. I am afraid the carbon/rust is going to kill my bearings the motor is only 4-5 gallons old. It still runs great! Thanks for info/help!
Nonetheless, you should disassemble and try to clean off the rust from the crank. Steel wool by hand or dremel with polishing tip works pretty well just stay clear of crank pin. If the crank is silicone filled, do not use any chemicals to clean. Also, at 4-5 gals I'd inspect/change the bearings if the engine still has strong compression. Normally if the crank has rust, the bearing races will likely be corroded too. To remove sleeve...Install your collet, flywheel, & clutchnut. Then take a med size zip tie (size used for fuel tank pull), bend in half (crimp with pliers to flatten) and push into exhaust port. Grab the flywheel with protective pliers or flywheel wrench & gently rotate. This will push the sleeve up just enough top remove the zip tie and get under the flange to pull upward or gently pry. Obviously you don't want to use anything metal to force the sleeve up from inside the engine. Hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by koreanassasom
(Post 10087315)
I have a bonito and I am switching from odonnell 30% to Byrons Gen 4000 pro driver 25 percent should I take out a shim? are engines still ave factory shims installed thanks
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Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10052965)
they say it is supposed to be similar in performance to 9901 pipe but i have seen it run , its a lil different , similar yes , exact copy no
hope this helps i would personally stick with novarossi pipes/headers |
Originally Posted by scrapsz
(Post 10090528)
No...the factory shims are fine for 25 or 30%.
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I just received my two clocked bonitos OMG quality is up there super surprised and excited these mills LOOK AWESOME very impressed. the craftsmanship and quality is HIGH first NOVA motor figured go big on the first time out :nod:
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Hi,
I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question :) Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0. I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate ;) I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS. What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold? best regards, Greg |
Originally Posted by czapu
(Post 10092078)
Hi,
I don't want to make a new thread just for that one question :) Which NOVAROSSI engine would You recomend for a Losi 8ight 2.0. I know that You've probably answered for that 1000 times but I have to say that the "search" option on this forum is a little inaccurate ;) I was thinking of the new BONITO.21-7XLBS. What do You think about that with 9901 pipe and 021 mainfold? best regards, Greg |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10092199)
Ummm more like any version of the plus 4 with 9901ss/41021 ;)
Thank You for Your answer! Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy? What version of plus 4 should I choose? I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja ;) ) but nitro took my soul too :) Greg |
Originally Posted by houston
(Post 10092199)
Ummm more like any version of the plus 4 with 9901ss/41021 ;)
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Originally Posted by scrapsz
(Post 10090523)
Many racers have different opinions, some leave fuel in their engines as the oil content coats the internals arguably protecting from rust. Personally I run the fuel out of my engines, however I use the GMK Supply after life oil and inject it through the fuel nipple on the carb to coat entire engine internals.
Nonetheless, you should disassemble and try to clean off the rust from the crank. Steel wool by hand or dremel with polishing tip works pretty well just stay clear of crank pin. If the crank is silicone filled, do not use any chemicals to clean. Also, at 4-5 gals I'd inspect/change the bearings if the engine still has strong compression. Normally if the crank has rust, the bearing races will likely be corroded too. To remove sleeve...Install your collet, flywheel, & clutchnut. Then take a med size zip tie (size used for fuel tank pull), bend in half (crimp with pliers to flatten) and push into exhaust port. Grab the flywheel with protective pliers or flywheel wrench & gently rotate. This will push the sleeve up just enough top remove the zip tie and get under the flange to pull upward or gently pry. Obviously you don't want to use anything metal to force the sleeve up from inside the engine. Hope this helps. |
Originally Posted by czapu
(Post 10092432)
Hi,
Thank You for Your answer! Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy? What version of plus 4 should I choose? I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja ;) ) but nitro took my soul too :) Greg |
Originally Posted by czapu
(Post 10092432)
Hi,
Thank You for Your answer! Why the plus 4? Is it any better the the Bonito or the Bonito is too powerfull for Buggy? What version of plus 4 should I choose? I'm more into petrol 1/5 scale (Baja ;) ) but nitro took my soul too :) Greg
Originally Posted by hookem34
(Post 10092543)
Monty I though you liked the 2096 pipe over the 9901:sneaky:
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im confused these are two products description from amain hobbies. in the first it says use 41021 for bottom end delivery and then in the second it says the 41021 is for top end performance. I have two bonitos one for buggy one for truggy and my current setup is buggy 41020 and 9901 and truggy 2084 and 41021 thanks guys
This is the Novarossi "Super Strong" EFRA 2084 One Piece Tuned Pipe. This pipe is essentially an EFRA Legal 3-Chamber version of the Novarossi 9853 pipe. This is an excellent pipe for 1/8 truck, as it produces power similar to the 9853, while offering the smooth power delivery, exceptional top end and efficiency of the 9901. The 41005 header is recommended for smooth power delivery, while the 41021 is the header of choice for bottom end power delivery. This is the Novarossi 41021 short, smooth flow, off-road racing manifold. This is the one piece variety manifold, which attaches to the tuned pipe using three small springs (small springs not included). This manifold is the smooth flow design from Novarossi, and is the short version of manifold for improved top end performance. Included is the manifold, manifold spring and one manifold gasket. |
Originally Posted by savannahmick
(Post 10092581)
Thanks for the good info! I thought I was taking good care of my motor because I always run fuel out of motor and oil it but I guess I need to clean it out more often. At the Fall Brawl the temps dropped and everything got wet with condensation at night thats probably when I got the moisture in the motor because I didn't run my Ninja that race weekend and it's clean and even has more fuel thru it. I reassembled the motor without removing crank and now after your advice I am considering trying the zip tie trick and cleaning up the internals correctly. Thanks again!
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hi,
Thanks again. But which of the plus 4 is the best one? With best bearings etc. etc. I have to buy it from U.S. so it will take a bit time for it to come to Poland. I wanted to place an order today :) best regards, Greg |
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