The engine and carb comes in separate plastic bags in the box. You had to put it together so you should have tightened it. You should make sure the o-rings are OK and then remount it. Before starting it I recommend reading the first post and not just read it, UNDERSTAND it!

+1 on the comments from others. Take a few minutes and read through my first post detailing the break in and tuning of the engine. This will give you all of the information that you should need to be able to understand what is going on and how to tune your engine/break it in.

Now as far as the carb being loose, if you picked up a new engine, that was something that you did If you take a look at the instructions that came with your kit there should be detailed information on how to set up your throttle linkage. When you do that you want to adjust the angle of the carburetor slide and the snap ball linkage on the end of it (which can be turned if you loosen the small allen screw underneath it) so that the linkage coming from your servo horn pulls on it as straight as possible (so not at an angle) and the position of the snap ball (angle) should be adjusted so that when the slide is being pulled open the linkage is not attempting to rotate the slide. Once you have these set then you want to tighten the carburetor pinch bolt. The way that I do it is just tighten it until snug then I do 1/4 extra turn on the screw. You do not want to over tighten this as it will deform the heat insulation shield around the base of the carb. Hope this helps!

I have been following the guide for this engine. I am aware that the engine "APPEARS" to be running rich, hence why it dies when the igniter is removed. Highly unlikely that it is a bad plug, all coils look fine and I just pulled it out the package. I was just throwing that out there as a known possible issue. My last engine was a P5XLT, the carb was installed in the factory. I bought this engine from someone on Rctech *NEW* but out of the package and the carb was loosely installed. I NEVER buy nitro engines second hand, but did this time I did and was a little worried. I know there are o-rings that are designed to prevent an air leak, but was asking if this sounded like an air leak and whether the carb should be sealed. Was also asking how to position the carb slide (I realize I said carb) as I do not have the paperwork, only the box.

I follow Houston's break-in method for my engines but I also followed the werks guide. The HSN is flush and LSN is 1 & 1/2 turns in. Making 1hr turn adjustments and leaning a little more with each tank. I get it... I said I was getting the engine started. Brand new Werks #5 plug. Once the engine is run-in, I will set the idle gap to the recommended .5mm

Like I said, I am getting the engine to start and I was curious whether this sounded like something terribly wrong with the engine. BTW this is the first engine that I have ever hear "POP" like a backfire when starting it up.

Thank you Ron for answering my carb question.

Just from my personal experience, I use a p3 os plug or a p4 for break in as your rich on the needles. Once I have a gallon or so on my engine, I go with the werks plugs, usually. The os plugs seem to give a larger tuning window, imo.....
The backfire is a sure sign for me that you need a different glow plug....

Not a problem. In our break in guide you will note that we recommend that people start of flush on the HS and flush on the LS with a large 2-2.5mm idle gap. Start with idling the first tank through. Then the next tank putt the car around at 2-3 miles per hour. Next tank back the idle stop screw out 1-2 hours, lean the LS 1-2 hours and drive slightly faster (4-5mph). Each following tank back the idle stop screw out 1-2 hours, lean LS 1-2 hours drive a few mph faster. Keep repeating until you get to the point that you reach approximately 1/2 throttle (the point that the throttle is open far enough that the LS needle comes out of the spray bar). At that point you set your idle gap to 0.5mm with the reducer our and switch over and start leaning your HS needle. To get to this point should take about 5-6 tanks and you should be in about 1 full turn on the LS.

Now once you switch over to your HS needle it is important to remember that your HS needle affects the overall fuel delivery. So as you lean your HS needle you will by default also be leaning your LS needle and you will see this by an increase in your idle speed. So again each tank go a few mph faster and lean the HS needle 1-2 hours. When you lean your HS you will notice that your idle speed increases. To bring this down richen your LS needle 1-2 hours, blip throttle, let come back down to idle and check. Run the tank a few mph faster, lean HS, let come to idle, richen LS to bring back down idle, blip & check again. Run tank a few mph faster and keep repeating until you are basically running at race pace (so in essence you now have a race tune) let engine come to idle, check idle, make final adjustment to LS needle and you are done.

The reason that I'm going over all of this is that if you are breaking in your engine you have to pick 1 system and stick to it. Trying to use 2 systems at once does not really work. Right now you mentioned that your LS needle is 1 1/2 turns in and your HS needle is flush. That is much too lean on the LS (about 1/2 turn) and really rich on the HS which is probably contributing to the weird tune issues that you are seeing. Using our system once you reached the point where you were roughly 1 turn in on the LS needle you should have been going fast enough to be at the point where you re-set your air gap and started leaning the HS. So if you would please set your LS back to 1 turn in, adjust your air gap and follow the rest of our break in method in post 1 from the point where we talk about leaning the HS needle. Let me know how things go!

Ron

ya know...plug may "appear" to be fine....even may glow when you pull it out and stick it on the ignitor BUT, have seen more than once that when the plug's put back in service under intense combustion pressure, it wont glow..so, try a new one..........cant hurt.

More strange behavior coming from this motor. Still working on the break-in process and last night it decided it wanted to fire backwards. It is very consistent, fires backwards about every other start. That backfire that I mentioned in an earlier post, I believe was the start of this. It backfires and then runs in reverse. Ron- I know this is common of 2-strokes in MX and that orientation doesn't matter, but is this a bad sign during run-in?

I've never had an engine run backwards on me but I would not think that it would damage anything. It is however certainly not normal behavior and is only something that I have ever heard of happening to people when their engines are set really rich during break in. Which brings me to did you follow my advice above and change your needle settings from where you had them which was simply way too lean on the LS and too rich on the HS?

Got my engine broke in and very happy with it, however my idle hangs high for a few seconds after a high speed pass. Im guessing I need to richen the high speed until it returns to a normal idle right away, or should a few seconds be fine? It will idle normally all day long with only a slight bog before taking off again. Any suggestions?

Assuming your idle gap is correct (which is very important because is you have a big idle gap you will have a rich LSN to keep the idle down) that would mean that your HSN is lean and it takes a couple seconds for the LSN to take over and bring it back down to idle. So I would richen up the HSN a bit so it drops back to idle when you let off full throttle.

The idle gap is around the width of a credit card or maybe hair smaller. Its open to the point of the smaller cut out in the slide. Ill richen it a bit and report back if it still didnt work

You want a gap of about 0.5mm and a credit card is around 0.75mm so if you are a hair smaller than a credit card you should be good - I would bet it is the HSN being too lean that is causing it to hang.

A Backfire can can cause problems !
High Internal pressure can blow the Front Bearing Seal out of the race .
It can also Damage the 'O Ring' that seals the Carby near the pinch bolt .and loosen any sealant that hes been applied .

Backfire during run in can occur if over fueled ,ie excess fuel in crank case ,

It's the motor, this thing is shot. I had several guys look at it this weekend. It is revving like the throttle is wide open with the throttle closed. We did take steps to lean it out with everyone thinking it was too rich and there WAS excess fuel in the engine. Haven't even had two tanks through this.

Ron,

I would like to send this motor in to Werks to be serviced. I was looking at the website and could not find any details. Can you PM me with the information on how/where to send and pricing? And do you have a pay service for engine break-in while you have it at the shop?

Josh

Anyone know the thread pitch/count/size for the crankshaft bolt? Broke half of a bolt off in there installing the clutch bell and need to clean the threads out.