Werks, you have PM.

I know I may have to stack more than one shim to get the desired thickness I was more interested in the inner and outer diameter of the shims needed to go behind the collet I see lots of shims available for the clutch bell and bearings but not really for behind the collet

Thanks

Is the front bearing on the B5/B6 Pro's ceramic? I know the rear ones are.
Thanks

Started break in today on my B5 pro. Following Ron's recommended method. Preheated good to about 220 and she fired on the first bump with that insanely huge idle gap. :eek: with both needles flush (O.S. speed carb) the tune was pretty much perfect for first tank idle as per instructions. Cooling down now and then I'm off to do 3-4mph figure 8's. oh the joy! :rolleyes:

If you purchase one of the awesome Werks Pro Series 4 shoe clutch systems you get 2 x collett shims included in the kit :).

Internal diameter - 7mm / .28"
Outer diameter - 12.8mm / .5"


Fronts are steel on the Pro Series motors.

Tank 2 and 3 done on the break in. I had to lean both needles allot and close idle gap in order to get my clutch to engage but I got through 2 more tanks at very low speed figure eights letting engine cool in between. I should be able to do 2-3 more tanks in the next phase before it gets late and neighbors start bichin. So far so good.

Your gonna love that Werks motor Jazz.
Break-in is a breeze compared to most, and once you get up around that 1 gallon mark it will blow your socks off :lol:

We used to chat a bit on the buggy forums (X-Ray, Serpent from memory). Glad to see you come on board with the Werks products :)

How have you been Shane? Glad to see you are still around. This is actually my 4th Werks B5 but I wanted to post the break in so new people can see it. I'm digging Rons method so far. Got 6 truggy tanks through the engine and its already coming around. Slight lean and slight idle close every tank and no issues at all. I love how they fire right up on the box. Enough power to rip the asphalt off the street and I'm using VP break in fuel with 13% oil. Tomorrow I'll get another 4-6 tanks through it and have it all ready to rip by next Saturday for the debut of the new engine. This Mill with a 2013 pipe is every truggies dream!

Anyone looking to buy a Brand New Werks B5 Pro still in the wrap box I have it up on the for sale thread.

Hi James,

All good at this end thanks :). Keeping busy with the business and loving the Werks / X-Ray combo on the track :nod: - in fact loving the Werks products all round. We are now the NZ agent for Werks, and customers are really getting into the products here. Look forward to catching up on here again soon :cool:.

Ron, you got pm. Thanks

So i have about 10 tanks through this b5 pro with a re-pinch, runs rich until about 3 laps then comes off at 200+ after a 6 min heat. my B6 does not have this rich deal going on it runs great, whats the deal? Why does my b5 pro have to take a few laps before it will even run? I do preheat to about 150 deg, so it is not that, it is at WOT the B5 pro won't even clean out until it gets about 2-3 mins worth of laps in, where the B6 runs great from startup.

Had a front bearing seal fall out in my hand after only 3/4 gallon on a new B5. Looking like this is a common- just not this early. Followed Werks breakin procedure & had 2 ,7 min heats & a 7 min main still running slightly rich. Last weekend, went out for race #2. Had problems with low end not holding tune...kept thinking it must've been weather changing. Found blown seal & noticed lower rod bushing is shot. Think Werks will stand behind their product & take care of this for me?

Let me start off by saying that the most important factor dictating engines performance is piston/sleeve fit. We jump through serious hoops to make sure that the sleeves are perfectly round by honing them prior to performing the chrome plating process. The pistons are made using precision grinding equipment as that is the only way to ensure that they are perfectly round. Once all manufacturing processes are completed these parts are then measured and matched up to ensure the best possible fit. So.....once you alter this by having an aftermarket company or person pinch the sleeve which in essence re-shapes the sleeve there is no way for us to guarantee that the fit is ideal like it comes from the factory. This piston/sleeve fit is going to be the deciding factor when it comes to engine performance and functionality. I just needed to mention that because when it comes to pinching sleeves I have seen some really good work and some absolute hack jobs too. Bottom line though is that the engine is not stock anymore and the fit of the piston to sleeve which has now been altered is going to be what dictates the performance and operation of the engine.

Now having said that normally when you get a pinched engine back you need to go through the break in process again. Assuming that you have done that and assuming that the piston/sleeve fit is ok then it sounds to me like you are simply running your engine on the rich side and it is just taking some time to come up to temperature. If you would please let me know roughly what your needle settings are (from flush), what plug you are using, what pipe and type/nitro content of fuel. Once I get that info I'll have a better idea of what is going on and should be able to point you in the right direction. :nod:

Have you tried contacting us about this?