Last week... Disassembled. Cleaned. Replaced head button. Then beat two of our local big time fast guy racers to take the B-main win... both flamed out with their V-specs. That provided me with all the gap I needed. This engine is a beast!!!

correct

Got my engine back today,He said the piston had a nice layer of carbon on top and inside exhaust port and such had a little extra carbon maybe ran rich.

Pinch was still very good, no sign of issues with anything internally, no scratches or scoring on anything, everything nice and tight...... all good except the front bearing. It was not leaking at all, just hard to turn, so he replaced it.

When he gave me the old bearing back it was rough to turn, after I messed with it for a while it turned better. I pulled the seals and the inside was dry no sign of oil or grease

What would cause a bearing to be bone dry?

Some fuel brands might have the performance, but don't have top notch lubricating qualities.

+1000000000000

i was out getteing my motor ran in some at the end of the 3 tank my plug back out some. got oil all over. tight it back down and ran one more tank it was still tight.

I have a b5 with about a gallon on it, at my last race my hs needle was very hard to turn. I removed the needle to find the top rubber oring broken on the needle. With this oring missing with it affect the tune on the engine. I'm having some real problems keeping the engine running. The engine fires up every time you crank the car will idle for a few second and cut off, I'm also getting air bubbles in my fuel line. Thanks for any help or suggestions.

Needles being tight is nothing unusual. O-ring being broken is not good, so please replace that. Running without the o-ring, while the outer one is primarily used for making sure that the needle does not move (as in vibrate around) is probably not a good idea.

If the car fires every time you try to start it and idles for a few seconds then dies your LS is probably too rich or your air gap is probably too small.

my motor likes to idles high for a few but i let it sit a few and it comes down nice

I had this happen with a fairly new b5, only had a half gallon or so on it at the time. The HS needle oring was torn making it hard to turn. I ended up getting the carb oring set and a small tube of AE's green slime. The green slime is meant to lube shock seals, but works very well at lubing and reinstalling your needles and their new orings as well. I havent had an issue with the orings since, and they are still buttery smooth (and not loose in any way).

Hope it helps

is this ok

If it runs on after a WOT run I usually fatten up the HSN. After I get it to come right back down I adjust the idle again with LSN.

got 4 tank on its still new no wot just yet.

If you havent leaned or tweaked anything yet you might have to start to close your idle some if you still have it set to 2.5mm or larger.

Might be an effect of the piston/sleeve starting to break in. As they wear in your tune will change up a bit. Is the engine coming up to temps?

i moved the low end out a 1/2 trun out from the box.