even though you can use the B6 p/s in the B5, i dont know what advantage it would ever be....especially since they price the same.

I just ordered the new B5 from Amain today. The old one was ok btw.

i'm totally sold on WERKS engines. i've got three B5's for my 8T 2.0. (a 2009, 2010 and 2010 pro version). all run great. actually, my 2009(with ceramics and new(broken in) piston/sleeve runs the best. goes to show that these mills keep on tickin............

I'm liking this engine so far. If any of you run the B5 on a Mugen buggy, do you change gearing or clutch set up?

Thanks

When i ran a b5 on my mugen before i went to the b6 i just ran a heavy werks clutch with .9 carbon shoes on 2 and 1.0 alum. it worked for me. Calmed the bottom down a little for my driving style... and alway run a 14tooth bell

Hey guys, I got my new B5 today, and I am trying to install it in my Losi Eight 2.0 truggy. I'm running in to a couple speed bumps though, and I'm wondering if anyone can help me with them.

First of all, the carb slide, where the the throttle linkage attaches to the slide ball on the carb, is rubbing against my diff cover. It doesnt seem to fit in right in that area. I tried turning the linkage ball so that it would miss my diff cover, but the grub screw opposite of the ball, hits that cover. Know of any fix for this?

My other problem is, where the engine mount screws go, on TOP of the engine mount, not the screws below the chassis, the screw heads will not fit straight enough to put the screws all the way through the holes in the engine that go to the engine mount. On both sides of the engine case, the Werks "W" logo is molded in metal on the side the the crank case, and the two front engine mount screws are hitting the side of the engine block, and wont go straight in. Do I need to get different screws, or is there some other way to fix this?

First of all, has anyone else had this problem, or know what I am talking about? Please, I need help with this. Not sure how to fix this.

Thanks, everyone!

Chad

i, too, run the b5 in my 8t 2.0 with no alignment issues, at all. did have to swing the carb a bit as well as get twist the throttle arm around a bit. doing both gives me total clearence as well as a straight pull on the barrel.
as far as the carb mounting screws, i found that i had to grind off a small bit of the block to clear the screw heads. not a problem. but, on the 2nd B5 that i got, i just cranked in the screws, before mounting the engine, with a good ball end driver with no problem. the block meterial is softer than the screws.

On the diff cover problem you only have 2 choices. 1. Loosen the carb and turn it to get clearance. 2. Grind the diff cover flat in the rear, this is the best way to do it as you will have a better aligned throttle rod.

Good deal, alexrckid. Glad to hear it's gonna be easier than I thought. I actually dremmeled off a side of the screw heads to get them o fit in there. I am still gonna be trying to fix the carb slide end from rubbing on the diff cover tomorow though. So that won't require any dremmeling? Let me get this right, all I gotta do to rotate the carb, I'd loosen the screw at the base if the carb, and it should rotate for me, right? I ended up taking out the engine mount screws from the bottom of the chassis, to get the engine mounts on, then I will have to remesh the gears. So, tomorow I can fix the carb rotating, then finally break this thing in!! So, I just need to do some rotating of the carb and linkage arm, right?

Chad

Re read my post. The best way to do your carb linkage is to dremel the diff cover flat. Its really simple just dremel the hump off takes all of 30 seconds. Second the screws would have gone in, you have to use a ball end driver. Believe me you want the carb linkage as straight as you can get it. You start binding up that carb and all kinds of things will happen (ask me how I know) I know the 8t inside and out. Thats the only thing Ive ever run. Good luck and keep us posted.

pics
 

Im about to go though this shortly myself any chance of some pics?

Been breaking in my B5 and have about 10 tanks thru it using the werks break in method. My only issue now is that it has the 2 stage idle. I think the idle gap is very close. Does this mean too rich or too lean? thanks in advance.

donr worry about a perfect idle during breakin

Hey hdcruzer, sorry, you must have posted that response right as I was tryping my reply to alexrckid. I didnt even see yours until this morning.

Yeah, thats prolly what I will have to do, dremel a little off the diff cover. The only things is, I need to dremmel as little as I can, because about a 1/4 of an inch in on the cover, there is a pin with a round cotterpin on it. So I dont want to get too close, so that when the truggy starts getting banged around on the track, its not weakening that point on the cover also. I was just so suprised in the first place that it was such a bad fit in this truggy! I guess I was just assuming it would pop in no hassles. Then again, what does that at all in the RC world!? lol

Anyway, I also have to adjust the length of the throttle link, because if I kept it where it is at, it would already be at about 1/8-1/4 throttle open without me touching anything. One more beast to tackle before I can fire this thing up! Lets see how this goes.........

Chad

Hi Chad, I think that you are going to find that the issues that you are experiencing lie more with the car design than with our engine. I believe that when they were developing the car they only used one engine type to test the lay out. So just about every brand of engine has some type of issue when it comes to installation in their cars. This is also why I believe that Losi now makes an optional diff top plate that resolves most of the issues that you are experiencing.