contrary to what you would think too much oil will actually make the engine run hotter as oil holds heat...so just use a quality fuel such as Werks and you will be just fine on my truggy outdoors I really liked the 2058 but indoors you can not beat the 2013 heck I even ran my truggy with a b6 and 2058 pipeset with good results talk about butter smooth but yet jumped anything in its path

Quick shout out to the werks folks that are on here. Just got a B5, used the breakin and tuning method outlined, worked like a charm. This is my 2nd werks motor.. the 1st sucked in dirt (it happens) and was broken in based on random advice from people at the track. The breakin and tuning advice on here werks folks.. it really werks!

Im sold..Im a werks lifer now.. based on customer service and support alone.

Didn't you rebuild that one that met an early demise? Was that you? If so, how is it doing after the rebuild?

i have 2 new b5 2010 carb engines both with 2057 pipes.installed on mine and sons buggies.

p3 glo plugs.
30% nitro.

followed werks break in proceedure to the letter.
after following werks tuning proceedure after break-in,motors wont idle correct.seems no matter how much you chase the needles.its either too lean,or rich.

2 stage idle is the best i can get to keep them running.

i did by a b6 used motor from a guy at track.

i took the carb from the b6 and installed on 1 of the new b5's.
it tunes much better but still lean or rich on ls.

any help would be great.

plus ummm....1,000,000

TX_Punisher; yes that was me. This one: http://dasmugen.blogspot.com/

I got it repinched from Ray A racing, it pulls really good now; has a ton of pinch; but the damn thing suffers from a bad idle. Sometimes after a race run, it will just come in, 2 stage idle and then die. No matter what I do I cant get rid of it. Its just not acting the same as when the B6 was new; It ran amazing all the way to when it sucked in dirt. So sadly the B6 is a spare motor; the B5 is my race motor now.

Also I might add; that when I had the B6 I was unaware of the werks tuning bible; with the B5 having followed the steps; I get a perfect idle; no 2 staging. Im running Werks #5 with Byrons Raceblend 30. This combination seems perfect for me. I race in about 85f weather with about 40-50% humidity; sometimes more.

I know some people are still having issue with tuning; im not sure what advice I'd give other than if you follow the steps (setting everything to flush..etc) and it still seems way off, sometime is wrong with the motor or fuel system.

I've also learned not to sweat the 2 stage idle; if it happens it happens; plenty of guys at the track 2 stage. The main thing is it should not 2 stage and then die. That's not a good sign if it does. It certainly not a good sign if it always does it regardless of where your needles are.

well 2 minutes after this video,it lost the rod off the crank.
someone tell me these motors have some kind off warranty.
i know its a race motor,but it has too make it past break-in.



click the pic.

How much did you have on that engine when you shoot that video?

Depending on how much runtime you had on the engine, not sure it was such a good idea to wind it out like that. What temp was it running? Couldn't tell from the video, did it have good smoke on the top end? Might have been lean, especially for break in.

that last run was on its 18th tank.
i was just starting to lean the hs needle to get closer too the 220 temp .

i couldnt get the temp past 200.

yes it did smoke on the top end.

Running a motor at Sub 200 degree's is a Great way to Toss a Rod out the side, These motor's need to run at there Ideal temp's which Sure Isn't Sub 200.

Your idle gap was still fairly big i take it? Motor is running on after WOT pass which usually means a too lean top end. But it is probably caused by too large of an idle gap. Bottom seems to be rich (sort of a 3-2 stage idle)

WOT passes like that are extremely hard on an engine...specially when breaking in. You said 18 tanks which is 2.2 liters (18 x 125cc) = 0,61 US gallons. Still a bit early to go WOT like that IMO....however i don't have experience with Werks engines. They say they break in fairly easy.

I can't tell you for sure because its a vid, but that sounded really lean on top. That thing was screaming for a new motor. I will typically run the HSN where it won't let it rev that high during breakin. Another give away is the 3 stage idle.

+1 to what everyone else is saying....just screaming up and down the streeet like that with half a gallon of fuel with "cold" temps is a quick way to blow up a new engine...def. rich down low and lean up top though

Oh man I feel for you. Same thing happened to me but with a clocked B6. I wasn't screaming up and down a street though. How experienced are you with tuning these engines? By the looks and sound from that video it seems like you were lean up top. The temps would be masked if you were running it really rich on the bottom. Do you have a pic of the plug and top surface of the piston? We can tell from that whether it was too lean or not.

I have to disagree with the person that said 200F kills rods. Lack of lubrication and heat kills rods especially if it's the bottom of the rod connecting to the crank which I think is what has happened here.

You said you purchased this engine new? I'm sure Ron will do something to help you out. If the crank is fine maybe a new rod is all you need to bring her back to life.