Hey Dave1357,

I can relate to your concerns. Although, I am not new to Nitro, I remember when I was. Your best bet is to read the break-in procedure at the beginning of this thread and also read the "Break-in Bible" and "Tuning Bible" both of which can be found as stickies on the Nitro Off-Road Forums.

Another good bet is to go to your local track ( assuming you have one ) and talking with the racers. Most of which will be more than glad to answer any questions and concerns that you might have. They will probably even help you with the break-in procedures.

I am sorry to say but I have ran every brand of engine out their and in the "instruction" manuel the break in process is ALOT less in depth, Ron AKA "werks" has gone above and beyond with the break in process that he recomends on page 1...anything else is the same from engine to engine...crank cae,carb,bearings,piston,sleeve,crank,rod...all engines have the same items...

Get a heat gun. Your motor/starter box will thank you. It will be a bear to start the first time without one. I know Ron doesn't use one but it has helped me. This is my 5 or 6th nitro motor but the first one I have used a heat gun on. Soooo much easier. Heat the motor to 200F each time you turn it over with the starter box for the first gallon or so. I got one at harbor freight for 10 bucks. You'll need an infrared temp gauge as well.

Looks like I'm in a fairly decent place then since I already have a heat gun and losi temp tuner. I guess the hardest part is trying to follow the "experianced" direction (i.e. turn the idle flush), flush with the housing? Just things like that, someone should make me a picture book lol. Thanks for all your help guys, I think I'll try and print out the 3 guides and put them together.

Take a look at this post, all the pic description you should need. Keep in mind that the Werks B5 does not have a Mid range needle.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/7711253-post4751.html

The idle gap is "set" by looking down the throat of the carb and measuring the gap you should see between the end of the carb slide and the edge of the carb thoat ( with insert installed ). A large paperclip is slightly over 1mm and a small paper clip is slightly under 1mm. A credit card is about 1mm ... 1mm is equal to .039".

Have you looked at Youtube for some help ?

I have a question. I'm getting ready to break in the B5. I had to move my slide on the hosing to line it up with my servo. I didn't touch my idle set screw yet, but I know the housing is not in the same exact spot that it was. So what should I do since it should be flush with the housing for break in?

Also, when we are referring to the gap in the carb throat should I just adjust that by my servo endpoint or is that done with the idle set screw?

I'm going to use the werks method with the heat cycle method. Do any of you use the heat cycle method as well? (do you let the engine cool every 3 mins at BTC or do you just do that after every tank?)

Thanks in advance:nod:

There is no reason to do the heat cycle with Ron's system, Just go over the instructions before brake it in so you understand what and why you are adjusting the needle, pay atention how the engine changes every time that you adjust a needle, that way you will learn how this engines perform.

The idle gap you have to do it in the carb NOT in the radio, why? you will never are gonna get it correct. Like i said before all of your questions are in Run's Guide, just take a time and READ it.

hey guys repost as too what i posted. i did not have my tune right still. i worked it out though and what was happening is i screwed the lsn way to far (about 1 1/2 turns) and i was covering up by a super over fat hsn.

to all new tuners you will only have to turn the lsn in a LITTLE and the hsn A LITTLE.

it got to 283 one time, i do not think that will hurt it?

Hey Folks,

Had the opportunity to race my B5 for the first time yesterday. I race a X2 CRT and this engine is just plain nasty in a Truggy :nod:

I was running a Dynamite 053 pipe set with 20% fuel. The engine had about 16 tanks through her with minor tuning (no race tune yet) and I still gained a lap over my previous Nova N21BF engine and reduced my lap times by over a second. The engine is still running rich on both the high and low end :lol:

Oh, and BTW, I won the AMain by a full lap :smile:

Great engine

Welp, got my P/S back from raya yesterday and put the motor back together. Going to re-break in today. I can't get over how new my b5 still feels everywhere except the scuffs on the top of the head heat sink. Even the same rod has no play you can feel at the crank pin with the flywheel -- at this time, my v-spec had a definite 'notch' where you could 'doink' the flywheel back and fourth on the play between the rod bushing and crank pin when the piston was fixed.

The needles need to be adjust according to Glow plug, weather, Temps., location etc. Every engine dont have the same tune even with the same conditions. :)

Got 12 tanks on my b5 now. It makes great power at 200f. Gonna run another 2 tanks this week and it'll be ready for it's first race tho I'll still have it aliitle fat. Can't wait to go to a full race tune! My losi 454 motor would be running at like 270f to get the same power I'm getting with the b5 at 200f! I think the losi motor must have an air leak.

I'm now 3 heat cycled tanks in on my re-break-in after 'tighter' resizing from rayaracing and just checked for physical resistance with the plug out at operating temp. I still have some physical resistance well before the taper at the top so I'm not there yet.

The method I'm using is to heat the motor up to 200F+ with the head wrapped in a sock (folded a few times over and end cut out) and run the motor at low to medium rpm up and down the street while maintaining temps around 200 - 220F by adjusting the main needle a little and the engine load. Been keeping it fat and in the 200s now very easily, then letting it cool to around 110F at BDC before the next tank. After the next tank, I'm going to take the sock of the head and start leaning it a bit. Once the only physical resistance left is the taper at the top of the sleeve, I'll start race tuning.

Wayne

EDIT: 4th dank down, very very little noticeable physical resistance left before the taper (pinch) at the top at operating temps. Time to pull the sock off and do a little leaning and a little more rpms.

EDIT: 5th tank down without sock and leaned out a bit more, temps were in the 190s and all physical resistance at operating temp before the taper is now gone. Tank #6 will be race tune with the 2057 for the first time.

EDIT: 6th tank down with race tune. Drove it around real hard, temps in the 210 - 220 range with local temps in the mid 80s w/ 67% humidity. Motor comes off of wide open throttle to a good low idle, then loads up and drops idle by half after around 10 seconds and idles for ever loaded up.

Summary: Took 6 total tanks to break-in and race tune after a "tighter" re-pinch from rayaracing. Used the same rod. Going to pull the motor and inspect the rod bushing to ensure it isn't spent after re-break-in.

Man, my B5 was feeling great today. Had tons of power and was temping at around 220. Ran all day like that an then all of a sudden the car leaned out like crazy. I figure I have an air leak somewhere so I am going to try an look for that. Oh well.