I got TQ with the B5 this weekend at round one of the TN state series this weekend with some very fast guys from all over the place . Alot of them was asking about the B5 . I ran into some problems in the main and went back to 9th but was very happy with how the engine ran all weekend and we turned some heads with it .

Yeah I have to second that!! He has some stuff figured out with that car for sure! It looks like no other hyper9 I've seen.

amazingly I have yet to see one of these at the local tracks here, but I am intrigued by it....I am looking for a truggy motor on medium size tracks...how does the B5 compare to vspec or ninja? Can the B5 do 8 minute stops in truggy? I assume the 2013 or 2057 pipes are needed to get the most out of the engine?

LOL dude i'm getting 9 1/2 min in a buggy with a 2013 and Mo (1fastguy1) can tell ya if i'm getting 9 min everyone else can get like 11...lol


so you can more then 8 in a truggy. the engine will work great in your truggy on anysized track... alot of these guys here are running them in their truggies...

-DC-

I get 11-12 minutes in a truggy with 2013 pipe. 10 minute pits are no problem. And better bottom end than ninja or Vspec same top end.

sounds too good to be true?! I might have one to the cart..thanks for the info!

Quick update from the RC Pro Series Texas race. Werks team driver Mike Battaile is sitting in 3rd in pro buggy and 4th in pro truggy with stock B5's and 2013 pipes. Mike also tq'd some of the earlier rounds of qualifying. Former Traxxas star Steve Slayden is also making a guest appearance driving a borrowed truggy and is sitting in 5th spot also with a B5!

former? as in no longer with traxxas... or former as in MT just doesn't exist no more

Lol, I did not put that much thought into it so I guess former as in he was formerly known for winning races when racing with his Revo.

:D..got you... i hung out with mike at motorama... he had some tuff luck there... but man his engine was running... last year he had a B7 and anyone he met on the straight... it was a wrap...

Ya. its hard to compete with the top end of the B7's:nod:

Welp, I flamed out 3 times in the main yesterday with my b5. I think my idle just needed to be raised, but I haven't had a chance to really investigate other than raising the idle in the pits after coming off the stand and evaluating the idle drop. Idle drop was good, could have been leaner on the bottom probably, but when it dropped all the way down, it didn't want to stay running until I raised the idle. Thing wanted to die instantly after coming off the throttle when it was a little rich. Might be plug too, or exhaust seals, or perhaps clutch bearings -- just really haven't investigated at all as I had to go drive my electric car for the next main.

I'm betting that my low end needle and idle screw need some love'n as they're still set at the same place they were on the first race tune on the first time I tuned the motor after finishing break-in. My guess is that it has run in a little and I should have updated the tune by this time.

Ive got about 6 on 2009 and its perfect. Plenty of compression, Bearings still good, C-rod no play at all..... Should get at least 10 gal before you have to worry about a thing........ For fuel, all 30%, Odonnells, Sidewinder and Werks

I can say with the Idle gap set properly and the LSN set to get your idle correct,and a little tweak on the HSN for performance( all of this from Ron, Thanks) these things never flame out. Atleast with mine I have had no flames in several Amains. I think I do run my low end just a hair lean but it werks fine and most importantly never lets me down in the mains. 10 min run times, mad low and top end, reliability = another B5 in my shoppimg cart :nod:

Ron's tuning guide 101, if you have not read it page back and find it, it will save you some pain. If your engine runs fine one day and then the next race day you fire it up and the idle is low, this is your motor telling you something (namely the air density) has changed. Do not just crank on your idle screw, leave it alone. Rather lean your low speed needle a couple of hours to bring your idle back up to where it should be. Then toss your car on the track and warm it up and do a couple of laps at race pace. Now adjust your HS to give you the top that you need. When you do this it will also affect your LS (hence idle). Blip the throttle and let the engine come back to idle. Do not adjust you idle stop screw rather adjust your LS (leaner=higher idle, richer=lower idle). Once you get your idle adjusted properly again you are done and your engine is set and ready to race! This whole process should take no more than 5 minutes or so to do.

Regards,

Ron