Not Ron but I do race the engines I dont think he needs to remove any shims but if he thinks he must it would be the thin one but keep a close eye on it things can get ulgy very fast . Ron can give you better avice cause he will know more about the fuel you are running than me .

What are the normal needle settings for a race tune?

I am finishing up breakin today and I have started to lean out the top end...just wondering if i'm getting close. Right now I'm flush on bottom and about two hours in from flush on the top.

A bit of sand still on the street and it's lighting 'em up all over the place!

a race tune will be leaner than that... read the beginning of this thread. Ron is right... every carb and engine is a bit different, so there is no 'standard setting' this many hours here, that many there, etc. My low speed is probably richer than flush and my high speed is about 18 hours leaner than flush... once i have my stuff set, i don't really back it out to count hours, you know? If you're broken in, i'd put 6 hrs on your top after its warmed up and do a couple of laps, see where you're at, retune the low end to compliment your high speed setting and go from there. if your temps are in the 220-240 range, and there's good smoke coming out of the pipe, and you got the low end grunt & run time that this engine is famous for then you're there.

it's better to be able to get to that race tune by tuning your own engine than it is to go by someone else's settings. Everyone has different atmospheric conditions depending on their locale, and no 2 engines are the same. That having been said, don't none of you kids out there go putting 24 hours on your high speed needle and blame your torn up engine on the bignasty:lol:

I understand that...I was just looking for a ballpark so I know how far I have to go.

You should easily be able to pull a thin shim with 25% without a problem. Having said that though the typical disclaimer is coming lol "changing deck height can cause serious issues and possibly even destruction of your engine, do so at your own rick". Now that's out of the way IF you still want to do it pull a thin shim, run a single tank, pull the head button and check for signs of detonation (a dry look to the top of the piston and the combustion chamber). If you are not seeing any and the piston top and button look the normal wet n shiny then you can continue dropping the head making sure to re-check each and every time that you make a change. Safest thing would be to leave it after removing the single thin shim but if you are going any lower than a single thin shim please be careful and you must check the internals as mentioned above after doing so.

Regards,

Ron

Hey HighVoltg12, thank you for picking up one of our motors! BigNasty is spot on with his advise, there is no way for us to tell you what the normal needle settings for race tune are for you. Frankly if someone was to say "go to this on the HS and that on the LS and you are at race tune" it would be completely irresponsible for them.

Every situation is different and every set up is different heck no one even knows the pipe, plug or fuel that you are using lol! Please just go back and read through my break in guide on here. It is a system that if you follow you end up at race tune. Otherwise you can shoot for a temp range in the 200-230 range (towards the hotter end once you get a good quantity of fuel through your engine).

Tuning is not rocket science (and I mean absolutely no disrespect when I say that), watch your engine and how it feels on the track. Look at the acceleration out of the corners and the smoke trail making sure that you stay roughly under 1/2 throttle and this will tell you how your LS is set. Watch your top end on the straight when pulling full throttle and how the engine reacts (on and off throttle) over jumps when you are at WOT and this will tell you about your HS. Your motor will tell you all that you need to know... If you have any specific questions or concerns about anything that you see while you are tuning please do not hesitate to ask and I will do my best to help you out.

Regards,

Ron

What version carb do you have, The first gen (black one) or the 2010 (silver) one?

Your running richer than flush on LSN? What do you have your air gap set at? Sounds like your airgap is way big. Bigger gap more air, more fuel. If your air gap is correct you should be at least a half turn in from flush on bottom maybe even more. With the restrictor in you should see no airgap at all. Up top you adjust to the track. If you lean it then you will have to usally fatten the bottom. Sounds like your running a really lean top to compensate for the fat bottom. But like you said all kinds of conditions play into the tune. Ive also noticed with different brand fuels theres alot of retuning involved. Some fuels like rich and some fuels like lean...

On my old version carbs I am 1/2 turn in on the high needle and flush on the bottom. On my 2010 model engines I am 1 turn in from flush on high and about flush on bottom also. And these will not be exact as mentioned before, because of location, altitude,fuel plug,pipe,etc... but for your reference these are what mine are at. Hope this helps:)

that's the crazy part... viewed from above with the insert in, there isn't a gap. I've run the low end leaner, and that makes a more erratic idle, and also, it doesn't wanna spool down when i clear big triples and let off the gas... it idles fine, but takes a second to get back down, so i run the bottom a bit fat... I'm not sure just how lean the top is in terms of hours, but it's below flush and i run at about 220-225 degrees. All i know is that it goes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

this is also one of the first batch of b5's with the old carb, too...

Restrictor
 

Hey Ron,
I am looking to purchase a 6.5 carb restrictor insert for the composite carb. I have. What part number is it ? It seems that there difference in diameter between the composite and aluminum. Thanks

anyone running the 086 pipe with this engine? if so what runtime are you getting with it?

Just received my 2057 pipe and both venturi inserts 6 mm and the 6.5 mm. Cant wait to get them on.

Here you go. They just got them in stock. I got the 6 and the 6.5

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...estrictor-65mm

http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.ph...s-Racing-21-B5

;););););)