The engine JS .21 is rtr for 25%-30% Nitro. The 30% will have better throttle response, and should run a little cooler.

dave i do believe the stock is shimmed just like the race prep for timming so you shouldnt have a problem with 30%

Always great news and insight when I look at the thread, thanks. Can't wait to see whats in store:cool:

hey guys just thought id let yas know i ran a practice today and got 11 mins out of a tank on this engine.I am running the stock engine with a o'd 97t plug and a vp pro efra 3023 pipe and it is flying and 11mins out of a tank.My track is also a high throttle track that is high with consumption so great engine guys

thanks for the info guys
 

thanks very much for the information .

O.K and do you mean the little collar on the outside of the linkage rod as adjusting this one makes no difference.

I see in the Losi manuel they say to put another collar the other inner side that the spring goes but the pic shows it wout this collar and I never put one in so would it help to have a collar hear?
Thanks.

yes. if you put another collar behind the spring it will increase the return tension on your spring. then yes with the slide completely closed, the collar i was talking about should be flush up against the guide on your horn that the link rides in.

full mod in 8t2.0 pipe suggestions need bottom end how much fuel should i run through engine before full tune ready nitrotane fuel thanks

Race Prep and Full Mod engines are ready to race tune out of the box.

Pipes:
Dynamite 086
Novarossi 9886
Mielke 2041 ( EBMods 2041 or Reckward 2041) <----- My Choice------<
OS 2060 with "L" Header
Novarossi 9901SS with Nova Short Header
GO 0801

All these pipes have worked well with the engines.

Clutch:
For the best possible bottom-end run a "High Stall" clutch set-up

Have 086 and re10 start there final points race for our season in upstate ny hope to have nice surprise for #1 need tq and win to get lead wish me luck thanks for fast response

Thanks as tryed another collar behind the spring for a bit more tension but you must put it on the carby side against the plastic ball that connects to the carby slide because if you put it against the servo side it wont allow the brakes to come on...I guess you could put on servo side but you cant tighten up the small grub screw as it would need to slide.
anyway it seems to shut better now..havent tryed it running but I am sure its fixed.
Thanks.

Jackhammer,

Hey Good Luck, let us know how it all goes. :) Remember, "Pin it to win it"

The RE10 works well, and makes very good bottom-end. The only down side is once the engine gets hot (230*F+) the power curve drops and it's very noticeable with the RE10. At lower temps around 210-230 the power should be strong and consistent.

Where's this race at in upstate NY?

Rome ,ny. CRC raceway

What are the starting points on the needles?

All the carb needles were flush out of the box, after a full turn all around the motor is still rich, and the motor is only temping at 200* after a tank. I dont want to go to far in, is this normal?

bboard carb needles out of box are half turn in from flushtop and bottom and idle is 1 1/4 turns from closed i think its been awhile. as far as temp iv never temped my motor so have no clue about that but i will tell you the js cools down very very quick so to be accurate you gotta pretty much do a pit stop temp.as for my full mod settings im at 1 1/4 turn in on top and 1 3/4 in on bottom using p5 plug and ebmods 30% and dyno86 pipe