![]() |
Originally posted by gentleman81 breaking in a new evo 2 does it seem not to want to heat up, when i started it with factory settings it was at about 120 deg F and was running fine, of course it was flooding but i had to go in a couple turns on the hsn and the lsn to getting it up to running temp even tho it was still very rich. i was told that the motor must get to a good temp for proper breaking to take place, what are some of the temp ranges i should see when breaking in this motor, from start to finish? |
Well, it looks like I fixed the air leak in my engine. Then I had to get the engine back tuned in from when it was leaking. Got the engine just right in the practice before the A-main. Running strong and FAST at 224 degrees, then.......
....baaaaaaaaaaa....<doing my best engine noise sound>......POP! Engine stopped instantly. Took the manifold off to get a peak at the inside and the flywheel and shaft is moving but the piston isn't...Ouch! Haven't disassembled it yet, but my guess is a broken rod.:sweat: |
So... where was the leak?
|
Originally posted by R1ceboy So... where was the leak? |
1 Attachment(s)
Originally posted by Darkseid Haven't disassembled it yet, but my guess is a broken rod.:sweat: |
Don't worry, one of these days they'll get the quality issues figured out; right AFM?
|
I wasn't trying to start anything like that. People have different views on what a companies quality control is. And its based on thier experience with the company.
His experience has obviously been great, while I and a couple people I know have had some problems. No biggie, just the way things happen sometimes. |
Originally posted by Darkseid Well I was wrong. It wasn't the con-rod that broke in the engine. It was the shaft!:eek: Take a look at the pic. This was defintely a first for me.:weird: |
Originally posted by Darkseid I wasn't trying to start anything like that. People have different views on what a companies quality control is. And its based on thier experience with the company. His experience has obviously been great, while I and a couple people I know have had some problems. No biggie, just the way things happen sometimes. I've had a broken crank with an RB engine in the past, and other friends had them on other Nova based engines, and that doesn't mean Novarossi has bad quality. In most cases we've concluded in it beeing because of a bad tuned engine(overheated) or bad quality fuel. By seeing your crank (color), and by the description of your leaking problems, before you fixed them, I most certainly can tell you that the breakage came because the crank was allready stressed from running overheated with a lean mixture, produced by the leaks of the past. As you say....just the way things happen sometimes..... Hope you have better luck with your next engine, whatever make it is. AFM |
just got a evo 5 port for my mtx3, if it works as well as in my 3 port legal losi truck should be a blast, let's see how they lastl next purchase, mega with 1,9 hp salven.
|
Darkside: Here's a pic of a blown Nova Rossi Engine. I have been in the Hobby for about 12 years and Sirios hasn't been the only engine with "quality" problems. This guy was running at 250 degrees, a perfectly "race" temperature.
http://img61.photobucket.com/albums/...u/DSC00297.jpg |
ANother photo of a Mugen MT-12 engine which popped in the middle of a race (A-Main). As you can see my friend, NO engine manufacturer ins flawless, I have learned that with time and experience.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/gallery/ga...es/lg-7373.jpg |
"I've had a broken crank with an RB engine in the past, and other friends had them on other Nova based engines, and that doesn't mean Novarossi has bad quality. In most cases we've concluded in it beeing because of a bad tuned engine(overheated) or bad quality fuel." end of quote
I agree 100% with you AFM. We have to remember also that there will always be many factor involving these kind of problems in an engine ranging from user's mistakes, productions flaws etc... I have venture again in using Sirio engines, after almost 8 years using, almost exclusively, Nova Rossi based engines (Top, REX, J.P's) I have found out that given the price of a Sirio you are getting in return a good "all around engine". It is a relieve for me not to expend 250.00 plus on engines every year. I personally race a Collari/Sirio engine on my Sedan. Now I am planning on buying an EVO Sirio for my club races. |
Originally posted by afm By seeing your crank (color), and by the description of your leaking problems, before you fixed them, I most certainly can tell you that the breakage came because the crank was allready stressed from running overheated with a lean mixture, produced by the leaks of the past. AFM |
Originally posted by madness It is a relieve for me not to expend 250.00 plus on engines every year. $160-$180 is more than fast enough for me!:lol: :lol: :lol: |
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:39 AM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.